What did you do to your Expo Jeep today?
- Thread starter bldeagle10
- Start date
twiisted71
Adventurer
For those of us near salt-water bodies of water its a staple as well. A yearly coat sprayed on an outboard's engine will keep it corrosion free and all the electronics behaving (under the cowling). Also anywhere you might use dielectric grease, this stuff "hangs on" far longer and through worse conditions.
For those who don't know though, its "tacky". I don't use it on anything I think I might need to mess with anytime in the near future.
unkamonkey
Explorer
That looks as bad as when I just was replacing a radio in my Mitsu Fuso. Just remove everything from the passenger side and work over to the left until you get to the radio.
Frank
Explorer
Good info.
Another note to add. DON'T do this in your garage, and leave the vehicle in the garage over night after coating. I about passed out when I went into my garage this morning. :Wow1:
comptiger5000
Adventurer
Tore into it yesterday trying to fix an oil leak. I thought it was the rear main, but it turns out it's not. Rear main looked like it's never leaked a drop in its 196k mile life. The oil pan gasket was leaking though, so at least the job wasn't a total waste. And I threw in a new oil pump while I was in there (has to be removed to change the rear main on the 5.9). Now I just have to clean the bellhousing dust cover, figure out why it was hitting the flexplate and re-install it. It was rubbing on the flexplate when I first threw it back together yesterday (made some truly awful noise), so I just pulled it off to deal with later (was running out of daylight).
Now we'll find out when I go to leave work today whether it's still dripping oil from somewhere or if it was just the pan gasket.
Now we'll find out when I go to leave work today whether it's still dripping oil from somewhere or if it was just the pan gasket.
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Slow down and read amigo. :beer:
You missed the the word "steel" in my original post twice.
This winch is a long way from being a virgin. So far only the powder coat is wearing.
Cast steel Hawse fairleads work really well. No moving parts to fail.
VagabondExpedition
Adventurer
Added "running" water if my $2 siphon tube counts as running water. It solved the problem of pulling the rotopax out of a loaded area just to fill a small kettle or water bottle.
IndyRubicon
Globetrotter
Finally got my roller fairlead mounted thanks to a front plate I found on the Internet. The problem I was having is the bolt spread pattern on fairleads are 10" and the spread was 11.25" on the bumper for whatever dumb reason. Anyhow, this plate I found sort of fixed it. I say "sort of" because the plate is for a center mounted winch and mine is offset. For now, I'm just happy to have the fairlead attached so the winch can be used. Modifying everything so it matches up would be a colossal PITA, so I'm holding off on that for now.
Aside from that, I swung by the dealership this morning so they could fix the driver's side running light (would flash when the blinker was on, but wouldn't come on when the headlights were on...and it wasn't a problem with the bulb). They also fixed my tow package wiring harness (no power was coming from the 4-prong connector). Both those things were under warranty, which is why I had them do it rather than messing with it myself. Plus, wiring isn't my forte.
Aside from that, I swung by the dealership this morning so they could fix the driver's side running light (would flash when the blinker was on, but wouldn't come on when the headlights were on...and it wasn't a problem with the bulb). They also fixed my tow package wiring harness (no power was coming from the 4-prong connector). Both those things were under warranty, which is why I had them do it rather than messing with it myself. Plus, wiring isn't my forte.
Tonight I started with my electrical system build. The goal of this project was to do it right, regardless of cost. I wanted something that was high amperage, waterproof, and very expandable/customizable.
So here we go.
STARTING POINT:
uke:uke:uke:
Cardboard pattern made:
Marked out on a 1/4"x2'x2' ABS sheet:
Sheet mounted, provides a nice building platform:
This is the layout I'm thinking about (yes the hood closes):
Components as follows:
Blue Sea + and - Power Posts
PAC 500 - WARN Zeon 10s Isolator (Blue)
PAC 200 - Provides 12v Acc+ power (Black)
Blue Sea 6 fuse panel - 12v Constant Power
Bussmann 50a Breaker - Provides constant 12V+ to my rear Blue Sea 6 fuse panel (Fridge/USB/12V plugs)
Bussmann 80a Breaker - Connects to PAC 200 provides power to RF 500w AMP
Bussmann 80a Breaker - Connects to PAC 200 provides power to Bussmann 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel
Bussmann 15303 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel (Instructions on how to assemble can be found online)
12v Voltmeter gauge
The layout allows for the expansion/addition of:
100a Relay for ARB Twin Compressor
2nd Bussmann 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel
3rd 80a Breaker - For Additional Bussmann 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel
Easily adapted to dual batteries with the addition of a Blue Sea ACR Isolator
The switches were custom done by OTRATTW. They will be mounted in a Rugged Ridge A pillar mount as well as a Daystar lower dash mount. The top switch with the skull and cross bolts is the master power switch/lock out for the lockers and winch.
So here we go.
STARTING POINT:
uke:uke:uke:
Cardboard pattern made:
Marked out on a 1/4"x2'x2' ABS sheet:
Sheet mounted, provides a nice building platform:
This is the layout I'm thinking about (yes the hood closes):
Components as follows:
Blue Sea + and - Power Posts
PAC 500 - WARN Zeon 10s Isolator (Blue)
PAC 200 - Provides 12v Acc+ power (Black)
Blue Sea 6 fuse panel - 12v Constant Power
Bussmann 50a Breaker - Provides constant 12V+ to my rear Blue Sea 6 fuse panel (Fridge/USB/12V plugs)
Bussmann 80a Breaker - Connects to PAC 200 provides power to RF 500w AMP
Bussmann 80a Breaker - Connects to PAC 200 provides power to Bussmann 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel
Bussmann 15303 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel (Instructions on how to assemble can be found online)
12v Voltmeter gauge
The layout allows for the expansion/addition of:
100a Relay for ARB Twin Compressor
2nd Bussmann 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel
3rd 80a Breaker - For Additional Bussmann 5 Relay/5 Fuse panel
Easily adapted to dual batteries with the addition of a Blue Sea ACR Isolator
The switches were custom done by OTRATTW. They will be mounted in a Rugged Ridge A pillar mount as well as a Daystar lower dash mount. The top switch with the skull and cross bolts is the master power switch/lock out for the lockers and winch.
BCobe
Adventurer
This is really cool. Are you planning to do a write up of it?
Overland History
Wanderluster
I agree, would love to read a write up on it!
I may, I'll continue to post photos. Likely the most detail will be in my build thread found here:
Bruzer Build Thread
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Looks great! :beer:
Something to consider with the battery covered, is to use some heat shield material between the battery and the engine. This will help keep the battery cooler, since it won't have the open top area to dissipate internal heat from charge/discharge.
Something to consider with the battery covered, is to use some heat shield material between the battery and the engine. This will help keep the battery cooler, since it won't have the open top area to dissipate internal heat from charge/discharge.