What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?
- Thread starter Nebel
- Start date
shakotanfun69
New member
Wheels and tiiiiiires. Will post pics as soon as I get them thigns mounted. Cant wait!
bikerjosh
Explorer
@Toasty, I will look up ‘control module', doesn't ring a bell offhand.
@evomaki, nope still not running. Been doing a lot of multi-meter checking between ECM/harness and other components (nothing definitive yet). Have the front of the motor pulled apart to get to crank/cam position sensors but didn't realize I needed to pull crank pulley/bolt to get lowest cover off. Didn't have the tool to hold the crank pulley in place while removing bolt so waiting until Fri/Sat when I can borrow a buddy's tool.
Hopefully make a dent in it in the next couple of days.
@evomaki, nope still not running. Been doing a lot of multi-meter checking between ECM/harness and other components (nothing definitive yet). Have the front of the motor pulled apart to get to crank/cam position sensors but didn't realize I needed to pull crank pulley/bolt to get lowest cover off. Didn't have the tool to hold the crank pulley in place while removing bolt so waiting until Fri/Sat when I can borrow a buddy's tool.
Hopefully make a dent in it in the next couple of days.
evomaki
Observer
Good luck, keep us posted. This is the kind of breakdown that is a huge PITA as involves so much diagnostics. Also, the repair of which is valuable information to the rest of us. Could easily be any of us. Super naive question on my part, but I wonder if there is a way to test the cam and crank sensor before removal of the timing assembly. They do terminate at the top of the intake manifold. Would a failure of those sensors cause a CEL?
I recently dealt with a crank but no start condition that threw a CEL & code right away for the cam sensor. In contrast, I battled a failing crank sensor for a long time a few years ago without ever getting a code specific to the crank sensor. Yes you can test the position sensors but you need a wave form analyzer (oscilloscope) to do it. The FSM has a continuity / resistance check as well but that checked out fine when my crank sensor was failing. If I ever suspect my crank sensor is acting up, this time it's going straight to a shop with a scope. Worth the $$ to get the diagnosis before tearing it apart.
Last edited:
haolepinoy
Incomplete Idiot
Thanks Salonika. I will keep this in mind if similar symptoms start somewhere down the road.
Had my cat back exhaust repaired. The shop salvaged the stock stainless muffler at my request and all the hangers, so it is aligned perfectly. NEW METAL! Yeah! Amazing that the muffler is still rock solid after 20 years, at least half of those years in the rust belt. Other than a little corrosion on the exterior, that thing is still in great shape. WAY over built! $186, mostly labor. I still need to add back some heat shielding.
Last edited:
Is the stock color under the cladding, or did you have to repaint? I like that look. How hard was it to remove?
Saguache
Adventurer
AZPAJERO
Observer
Stock color. The cladding was already coming lose in few places and was looking a little ragged in others so I just decided to rip it off (after a few beers
)You'll want to pull on it slowly, but the 20+ year old adhesive came off without issue and most of the plastic clips busted and came off fairly easily as well. Plan is to (one day) close the holes and get 'er repainted but kitty jar is drained for now on incoming gears/tires
I learned that if your ignition switch circuit fuse (green 40amp under the hood) blows and you are stranded, you can limp home by temporarily replacing it with a pink 30amp fuse from the defogger unit circuit.
View attachment Montero.docx
View attachment Montero.docx
