What do you use for deflating your tires?
- Thread starter krick3tt
- Start date
LandCruiserPhil
Expedition Leader
I like the Stauns for accuracy and ease of operation. I find a lot of my travels are solo. With Stauns I screw them on drive for 5 minutes and remove them what could be easier and more accurate? Airing up is fast with a permanently mounted Puma compressor.
Laps
Active member
Superduty had asked for me to "explain" the use of a dial tire gauge for deflating as opposed to using the ARB. Maybe a picture is needed as to the type of gauge I am referring to:
Also, I imagine the brand of gauge might also influence the amount of air that can be released, as the one I use (an Accugage) is very fast in allowing air to be released from the tire.
Also, I imagine the brand of gauge might also influence the amount of air that can be released, as the one I use (an Accugage) is very fast in allowing air to be released from the tire.
Superduty
Adventurer
I have a dial gauge with an air relief valve on it similar to the above, in fact I believe mine is also accugage. I have no idea how you could release air with that unit faster than the ARB. Unless, I am doing something wrong with the use of the dial gauge.
I suppose the other scenario where the ARB might not be the fastest is if we are talking about only releasing 5 psi from the tires in which case screwing on the ARB and then eventually unscrewing it may take too much time.
I started using the ARB deflator. Really happy with it, way faster than what i used to do, which is using my dial-gauge with air relief. Like a LOT faster.
With that said, i had to return the first ARB deflator i ordered since it leaks even when in closed position. The replacement works flawlessly but at least be warned if you opt for an ARB style deflator.
With that said, i had to return the first ARB deflator i ordered since it leaks even when in closed position. The replacement works flawlessly but at least be warned if you opt for an ARB style deflator.
I didn't like the performance of the Smittybuilt knock offs, so I use Staun. I've seen and used the ARB tool and like the speed of it. But i don't like the idea of constantly unthreading and threading in the cores. Sooner or later, I'm certain they'll strip or cross thread no matter how well aligned the tool keeps things.
orangejeep1
Member
I have the teraflex, but started to use a Boulder set this year. They are adjustable and seem to do the job.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Kerensky97
Xterra101
I use those simple deflators too. Only $20, you can deflate all 4 tires at once...
It's like the Staun deflators you just have to keep an eye on the levels and shut them off when they get close. Mechanically it's the same thing as holding a twig, nail, or whatever in the valve stem. But you don't have to worry about vlave stem loss, crossthreading, or damage. I still have the set I bought in the late 1990s and they're still as good as the day I got them.
No Ma
Wonderer
Teraflex tire defaltor (key chain) + a Joe's racing pressure gauge. As quick as most with a set of Staun's because they go around and check pressure when the Staun's finish. I walk around the Jeep 3-4 times, check pressure, remove when they're at the right pressure. Simple, no core removal, $15. I like simple and quick.
If you want something cheap and homemade take a medium size black paper binder clip. Drill a small hole in the top and screw in a small sheet metal screw w the tip flattened/ground down. The screw has to be small enough to fit into the valve stem and allow air to escape around it. Clip onto the valve stem and there ya go. Make 4 and you can air down all 4 tires at once. I used this for a couple years back in the day before going the screw on key chain route.
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Hmmm. I got an ARB deflator for Christmas and never use it. Too much work. Pushing the stem in with the back of gauge or tip of knife works fine for me. I even use an ancient method called "counting" to get them close to equal... Or to be more modern I just use the TPMS readout... Maybe that isnt Expo enough eh?
MOguy
Explorer
I have used a Currie tire deflator (samething as and ARB deflator) and it works fine. But it is a hassle. I have seen or used about every deflator or method out there. For me the simplest and fastest is just a valve stem remover. I have never lost a valve stem but I carry extras just in case.
67cj5
Man On a Mission
Having done back to back tests in the past 3 months using Gauges from ARB and Longacre and a few Copies of the ARB EZ Deflator and Staun Deflators and come copies of the Stauns I come to realize after spending all that time and over $1000 on Gauges Deflators and Inflators, The Cold hard facts when used correctly the set of 4 Stauns are only 6 seconds Quicker than the ARB EZ Deflator and the ARB is a fair bit cheaper,
Out of 13 Gauges Only One was out by 1psi and that Gauge was a Chinese Gauge that goes from 0 to 100psi But it was only out once the Gauge got below 8psi, Baring In Mind that a Gauge that reads up to 100psi has a 2% Accuracy factor between 25 and 75psi and an accuracy factor of 3% Below 25psi and above 75psi this Gauge came well below the Accuracy Limits, and is 100% accurate above 15 to 20psi,
Out of 9 ARB Gauges and Inflators and Deflators 7 of them were absolutely Bang On ZERO and 1 read 0.3psi high and the other read 0.4psi Low at below 8 psi and I put this variation down to me swapping gauges On and Off all the Time because when the tyre was reinflated all the gauges Matched, Both of these Gauges Are still as Accurate as the most expensive analog Gauges money can buy and all the Gauges were ordered on Line So I never got to pick and choose them my self, Not One of ARB's gauges was out,
I also bought 2 Copies of the EZ deflator from Ebay and One was Spot On and the other one was ONE PSI OUT, Both of these gauges came with the Needle the wrong side of the stop post just because that is how they are shipped with the easy removal of the Bezel and Glass I put the needle the right side of the post, With the one that was ONE psi out I just loosened the screws on the Dial and moved it to match the PSI and it also now reads bang on ZERO, even though they were almost a quarter of the price of the ARB EZ Deflator and they come with a 4 way Valve Key and 4 spare Valve Caps,
Out of 13 Gauges, Inflators and Deflators Only One was not up to scratch and that was one of the most expensive Gauges that I bought So it has to be returned because it leaks and does not hold the pressure, All of the ARB and the Cheap Gauges performed perfectly and All of them are as accurate as the most expensive Gauge,
As for Digital Gauges you can buy 10 of the same Gauges and only 2 or 3 will match each other, This is due to the quality of the electronic sensors used in digital gauges and even if you spend a lot of money on them there is no guarantee that you will get a good one where as most Analog Gauges use a Brass Bourdon which makes them more Accurate and stable.
As for the ARB vs Staun the ARB EZ Deflator is Miles ahead because having a Gauge on the ARB allows you to drop the pressure to any psi you want without having to reset it to another pressure, Where as the Staun Deflators are a one trick pony which only allows you to set them for one type of terrain and they loose accuracy over time due to age, Temperature dust and grit or mishandling they can and do get moved out of adjustment, It is not uncommon for people to find that none of their stauns have the same setting as someone posted on YT, Having to reset your stauns out on the trail can add up to another hour or so to your Airing down times if you have an Issue with one or two of them, So If you like using your Staun Deflators it would be a good Idea if you carried an ARB EZ Deflator as well as your Stauns as a back up not only that if the Terrain changes then having the ARB in the Glove Box will allow you to adjust your pressures to suit, Bottom line is if you prefer the Stauns then we actually need to carry both types because all of the above.
Hope that helps.
Out of 13 Gauges Only One was out by 1psi and that Gauge was a Chinese Gauge that goes from 0 to 100psi But it was only out once the Gauge got below 8psi, Baring In Mind that a Gauge that reads up to 100psi has a 2% Accuracy factor between 25 and 75psi and an accuracy factor of 3% Below 25psi and above 75psi this Gauge came well below the Accuracy Limits, and is 100% accurate above 15 to 20psi,
Out of 9 ARB Gauges and Inflators and Deflators 7 of them were absolutely Bang On ZERO and 1 read 0.3psi high and the other read 0.4psi Low at below 8 psi and I put this variation down to me swapping gauges On and Off all the Time because when the tyre was reinflated all the gauges Matched, Both of these Gauges Are still as Accurate as the most expensive analog Gauges money can buy and all the Gauges were ordered on Line So I never got to pick and choose them my self, Not One of ARB's gauges was out,
I also bought 2 Copies of the EZ deflator from Ebay and One was Spot On and the other one was ONE PSI OUT, Both of these gauges came with the Needle the wrong side of the stop post just because that is how they are shipped with the easy removal of the Bezel and Glass I put the needle the right side of the post, With the one that was ONE psi out I just loosened the screws on the Dial and moved it to match the PSI and it also now reads bang on ZERO, even though they were almost a quarter of the price of the ARB EZ Deflator and they come with a 4 way Valve Key and 4 spare Valve Caps,
Out of 13 Gauges, Inflators and Deflators Only One was not up to scratch and that was one of the most expensive Gauges that I bought So it has to be returned because it leaks and does not hold the pressure, All of the ARB and the Cheap Gauges performed perfectly and All of them are as accurate as the most expensive Gauge,
As for Digital Gauges you can buy 10 of the same Gauges and only 2 or 3 will match each other, This is due to the quality of the electronic sensors used in digital gauges and even if you spend a lot of money on them there is no guarantee that you will get a good one where as most Analog Gauges use a Brass Bourdon which makes them more Accurate and stable.
As for the ARB vs Staun the ARB EZ Deflator is Miles ahead because having a Gauge on the ARB allows you to drop the pressure to any psi you want without having to reset it to another pressure, Where as the Staun Deflators are a one trick pony which only allows you to set them for one type of terrain and they loose accuracy over time due to age, Temperature dust and grit or mishandling they can and do get moved out of adjustment, It is not uncommon for people to find that none of their stauns have the same setting as someone posted on YT, Having to reset your stauns out on the trail can add up to another hour or so to your Airing down times if you have an Issue with one or two of them, So If you like using your Staun Deflators it would be a good Idea if you carried an ARB EZ Deflator as well as your Stauns as a back up not only that if the Terrain changes then having the ARB in the Glove Box will allow you to adjust your pressures to suit, Bottom line is if you prefer the Stauns then we actually need to carry both types because all of the above.
Hope that helps.
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