What do you use for deflating your tires?

[Metcalf]

I am a bit old fashion, I use a core tool to remove the core. This is basically as fast as you can get in my opinion. You can even drill some stems out a bit to get even more flow. I need a long stem tool to get to some of the valve stems on beadlock rims. The currie/arb units are just too much of a headache for me.



The core tool I need has a spring-ball retainer to hold the stem core in it. You can violently shake the tool and not lose the core.



I 3d print a new handle for the tool that has a hidden compartment in the tail end for 3 spare cores just in case you are Jinxed.



A magnet in the end of the tool grabs the spare cores when you slip the handle off.





I've been a core puller for over 20 years. This works for me.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I like many here have owned and used several types of deflators and for my needs I use Coyotes deflators. Coyote offers 0-20psi adjustable making them super easy to set up and with the stop lock they never loose there setting. Yes there are preset at 14psi but that will cover 85% of my air down needs on my 315's. The big win for me is I screw them on drive and I remove them the next time I stop, making them faster than any other system in this thread.

 

[67cj5]

I like many here have owned and used several types of deflators and for my needs I use Coyotes deflators. Coyote offers 0-20psi adjustable making them super easy to set up and with the stop lock they never loose there setting. Yes there are preset at 14psi but that will cover 85% of my air down needs on my 315's. The big win for me is I screw them on drive and I remove them the next time I stop, making them faster than any other system in this thread.

Sounds Good Phil, At slower speeds I can see how that would work well, What type of Gauge do you use ?,

 

[67cj5]

I am a bit old fashion, I use a core tool to remove the core. This is basically as fast as you can get in my opinion. You can even drill some stems out a bit to get even more flow. I need a long stem tool to get to some of the valve stems on beadlock rims. The currie/arb units are just too much of a headache for me.



The core tool I need has a spring-ball retainer to hold the stem core in it. You can violently shake the tool and not lose the core.
.

Maybe fitting the longer version of those Valves might make them a bit more accessible, which would allow you to use a Deflator of some sort ?.

 

[Metcalf]

Maybe fitting the longer version of those Valves might make them a bit more accessible, which would allow you to use a Deflator of some sort ?.

Those wheels are some of the worst I have had for stem location, but in general, I don't want a longer stem that is more exposed to damage on the trail. I find the longer units to be less durable when they do get caught by something as minor as bending them over. Metal stems have been the worst for me also.

Pulling the core is the fastest way to air down. I wouldn't do it any other way.

I vary the pressure in my tires to the terrain enough that a set point deflator wouldn't really work for me.

I've been doing this a pretty long time. I've tried most of the gadgets that have come out of the years to help with airing down, none of them stuck. I gave a lot of them away. This is where I always end up coming back to. I decided to build the tool I wanted to make the best of it.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Sounds Good Phil, At slower speeds I can see how that would work well, What type of Gauge do you use ?,

Works at speed as in I dont give my speed any thought during the process.
I find myself airing up in the dark frequently with weak eyes so my go to is a Milton illuminated digital.

I recently retried the knock off version of the ARB EZ deflator. Unlike your test I thought the quality was much lower and seemed more sensitive to the way it grabbed and held the valve core. I ended up sending it back, after reading your post I may have picked a bad one.

 

[67cj5]

Those wheels are some of the worst I have had for stem location, but in general, I don't want a longer stem that is more exposed to damage on the trail. I find the longer units to be less durable when they do get caught by something as minor as bending them over. Metal stems have been the worst for me also.

Pulling the core is the fastest way to air down. I wouldn't do it any other way.

I vary the pressure in my tires to the terrain enough that a set point deflator wouldn't really work for me.

I've been doing this a pretty long time. I've tried most of the gadgets that have come out of the years to help with airing down, none of them stuck. I gave a lot of them away. This is where I always end up coming back to. I decided to build the tool I wanted to make the best of it.

Yeah I see what you mean, I got some valves the same that are about 1/2" longer so they sit inside back far enough not to get hung up on any thing,

That is a nice tool you have there, and the Cap is a great Idea.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I am a bit old fashion, I use a core tool to remove the core. This is basically as fast as you can get in my opinion. You can even drill some stems out a bit to get even more flow. I need a long stem tool to get to some of the valve stems on beadlock rims. The currie/arb units are just too much of a headache for me.



The core tool I need has a spring-ball retainer to hold the stem core in it. You can violently shake the tool and not lose the core.



I 3d print a new handle for the tool that has a hidden compartment in the tail end for 3 spare cores just in case you are Jinxed.



A magnet in the end of the tool grabs the spare cores when you slip the handle off.





I've been a core puller for over 20 years. This works for me.

With your system if you use No-Loss caps you dont need valve stems. Many of the Iceland big trucks use them without valve cores.

No Loss Valve Caps ◄ link

 

[Metcalf]

With your system if you use No-Loss caps you dont need valve stems. Many of the Iceland big trucks use them without valve cores.

No Loss Valve Caps ◄ link

Filling the tire with a coreless cap based system seems problematic to me.

Jantz4x4 has a similar system with modded valve stem extensions that works pretty well. You can fill right trough the extension.
He drills holes in the cap portion to let out the air.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Filling the tire with a coreless cap based system seems problematic to me.

Jantz4x4 has a similar system with modded valve stem extensions that works pretty well. You can fill right trough the extension.
He drills holes in the cap portion to let out the air.

No worries Just an idea it works for the guys in Iceland

 

[Metcalf]

Yeah I see what you mean, I got some valves the same that are about 1/2" longer so they sit inside back far enough not to get hung up on any thing,

That is a nice tool you have there, and the Cap is a great Idea.

Thank you. If you happen to want one there is a link to my small little web store in my sig.

 

[Metcalf]

No worries Just an idea it works for the guys in Iceland

I wonder how they fill the tire? Go over and get the cap screwed on?
It would also be hard to check the pressure?

 

[67cj5]

Works at speed as in I dont give my speed any thought during the process.
I find myself airing up in the dark frequently with weak eyes so my go to is a Milton illuminated digital.

I recently retried the knock off version of the ARB EZ deflator. Unlike your test I thought the quality was much lower and seemed more sensitive to the way it grabbed and held the valve core. I ended up sending it back, after reading your post I may have picked a bad one.

Yeah the EZ deflator only goes up to 60psi and the cheaper one goes up to 75psi,

I prefer the ARB Low Pressure Gauge ARB508 0 to 50psi to the ARB Red Gauge P/N ARB506 0 to 75psi, I found the Red gauges Hose way too stiff even more so when it's cold, The Low pressure gauge has much bigger gaps between each psi which makes it easier to set it to 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4psi and it is the cheapest one they make at round $20.00/£15.00 and with these Old eyes it is easier to read, I also bought the Longacre Magnum 3 and a 1/2" 0 to 15psi that has 1/4psi markers and it accurate to 1/4psi and the other Longacre gauge I bought was the Longacre Pro 4 and a 1/4" 0 to 60psi which is also Accurate to 1/4psi and has 1/4psi readout, The 3-1/2" was 6.5 times the price of the ARB Low pressure gauge and the 4-1/2" gauge was more than 12 times the cost of the ARB low pressure gauge,

Knowing what I know now, Longacre are beautiful US MADE Gauges and I just had to have them LOL but in all honesty if you run street pressures around 40psi and below then the ARB508 Low Pressure gauge is the Ultimate Gauge and although it is quite large it is very easy to read, The reason I say about having pressures below 40psi is because you don't want to RED LINE the needle as this could damage the Gauge in the long run.

The Longacre Magnum 3-1/2" gauges come in 0 to 15 has 1/4psi accuracy and 1/4psi readout, 0 to 30 has 1/4 readout , 0 to 40 1/2psi readout and 0 to 60psi with 1/2psi readout. and All of them are Glow in the Dark, the Magnum series offer the best bang for the Buck due to their easily to read Dials and their Accuracy and come in an Alloy Case, from a price point of view they are the most any one would need to spend to get a very high Quality Gauge at around $82.00 where as the 4-1/2" Pro is definitely Over Kill at around $182-200 bucks a pop, Beautiful yes, but it is Huge and actually measures over 5" in width, So not pocket friendly,

The ARB508 is a fraction smaller than the 3-1/2" Longacre Gauges and is the best bang for the buck regardless of the brand,

Hope that helps.

j.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I wonder how they fill the tire? Go over and get the cap screwed on?
It would also be hard to check the pressure?

Have you seen the tires they run? I dont think a pound or 2 will make a difference. They do it because the core restricts the speed when airing up.

 

[Metcalf]

Have you seen the tires they run? I dont think a pound or 2 will make a difference. They do it because the core restricts the speed when airing up.

Yup, fun stuff.

I wonder what kind of compressor they run that the core really restricts the air input?