What does "Light Weight" mean?/

[Clutch]

For your needs you might be better off with a shell that mounts on the bed rails vs a slide-in. You can save a lot of unnecessary structure that way.

All aluminum construction.

http://www.rangertrailer.com/custompage.asp?pg=TruckCaps_Accessories




http://socaltruck.net/workmate_shells/workmate_customer_gallery#Previous

 

[boxcar1]

Hemlock and staples. Not the highest quality frame out there, nor the lightest. For your requirements I'd have to agree with rruff. A stand up topper with ambulance doors . Add what ever interior you need using a modular configuration. They can be removed from the truck bed if you remove the topper.

 

[rruff]

Add what ever interior you need using a modular configuration. They can be removed from the truck bed if you remove the topper.

My thinking too. The top should be light enough for two guys to handle.

But if you need to take it on and off a lot, then you will want a slide in with jacks.

 

[Cave_Campers]

Cave Camper

We are a new entrant in this market. Our first Cave truck camper model weighs ~750 lbs. and is built with composite panels. It's incredibly durable, easy to clean, and lightweight enough to be suitable for a 1/2 ton truck.

 

[eee]

You can go to novsight and ask them, they are very good customer service, I think I will be happy to answer this question.

 

[LocalmotionSC]

I stick in wood stringers just for piece of mind. I don't have time for a research project, and I trust wood to wood bonds more than anything to foam.

What do you mean by wood stringers, i think i understand the concept of a stringer, but how/where do you insert them between (or in) the panels?

 

[LocalmotionSC]

And that's the problem, most people want a lightweight composite shell for cheap, it isn't that easy,if it was everyone would be doing it. I think that is why most DIY camper builders are willing to put up with a little more weight and save tons of money. They may not be the best, but if it works and gets you out camping, that's all that matters.

What methods are substantially cheaper and straightforward for the DIY builder? I am researching a DIY flatbed build and was thinking composite, but cost is definitely important to me so i'm curious about other cheaper options that people use.

 

[rruff]

What do you mean by wood stringers, i think i understand the concept of a stringer, but how/where do you insert them between (or in) the panels?

Every sheet of styrofoam is edged with wood. So the edges and at least every 4ft there is 1" board that is as thick as the foam (2" XPS on mine). There is more wood in the base/floor. Mine mounts to the truck frame directly.

What methods are substantially cheaper and straightforward for the DIY builder? I am researching a DIY flatbed build and was thinking composite, but cost is definitely important to me so i'm curious about other cheaper options that people use.

Composite isn't expensive if you buy the cheap stuff... and IME the cheap stuff I bought works fine. There is a bit of learning curve to laying fiberglass. What are your skills?

 

[LocalmotionSC]

Every sheet of styrofoam is edged with wood. So the edges and at least every 4ft there is 1" board that is as thick as the foam (2" XPS on mine). There is more wood in the base/floor. Mine mounts to the truck frame directly.

Aww okay, so instead of bonding XPS sheets together you are gluing XPS|Wood|XPS|Wood|XPS and then skinning it all with glass/epoxy? That does sound like it would be "easier" (as in more familiar) for attaching cabinets etc and the properties of the XPS and the wood might actually work well together. Although you would lose some overall r-value.

Composite isn't expensive if you buy the cheap stuff... and IME the cheap stuff I bought works fine. There is a bit of learning curve to laying fiberglass. What are your skills?

By the cheap stuff do you mean like the 4x8's available at home depot etc? I was referring more to the finished composite panels (maybe the correct term for that is Sandwich panels(?) FRP(?), I'm pretty new to all this. As for skills I'm fairly handy, like learning new things, but haven't taken on a project anywhere near as big and complex as building a camper from scratch.

 

[rruff]

Aww okay, so instead of bonding XPS sheets together you are gluing XPS|Wood|XPS|Wood|XPS and then skinning it all with glass/epoxy? That does sound like it would be "easier" (as in more familiar) for attaching cabinets etc and the properties of the XPS and the wood might actually work well together. Although you would lose some overall r-value.

Yes, that's right. The R value loss is pretty trivial though; wood is a much better insulator than aluminum for instance! And way less bridging than residential stud wall construction.

Any place you want to fasten to the wall you need a hard bridge between the two face sheets; either a plug of epoxy or wood. Else you will pull the face sheet off the styrofoam. I am not building solid cabinets in corners that inhibit the structure. I want them to flex a bit, and they will be fastened to the floor where there are already lots of hard points.

By the cheap stuff do you mean like the 4x8's available at home depot etc? I was referring more to the finished composite panels (maybe the correct term for that is Sandwich panels(?) FRP(?), I'm pretty new to all this. As for skills I'm fairly handy, like learning new things, but haven't taken on a project anywhere near as big and complex as building a camper from scratch.

XPS ($32 for 2" sheets of 25psi), Ebond epoxy ($30/gal), and whatever FG cloth I can get on sale. Heavy biax I like the best, but harder to hide overlaps.

By "finished panel" do you mean where a sheet of FRP is glued to the core? Plenty of people have done that. You can build them yourself or have them built. Total Composites (and others) will make and ship you the panels and all the hardware your need to put them together. I think a pretty good size box will run ~$15k. That saves a lot of work, but you could build the panels yourself for less.

Hand layup over foam gives you more freedom for curves and rounding edges. That's the main reason I'm doing it this way. You need to prep the foam properly and get up to speed on FG layup. Make some sampels and test them. Not hard to learn.

Another option is to use thin marine ply (3-4mm) for the face sheets instead of FG or FRP. I built a camper like that years ago and it worked great. Well sort of like that. $10 luan was much higher quality than now, and that's what I used for the sheets instead of marine ply.

 

[ATskier]

I have had many campers, too many to list. Condensation was a major issue along inside of pop top fabric, in aluminum framed campers along framing lines inside, and on windows and aluminum window frames.

current camper has all fiberglass skin & roof, 1 1/2” fir framing, 1 1/2” rigid foam insulation.

I covered all the windows with plexiglass with a weatherstripping seal except for one for air exchange.
Propane furnace combustion is vented in and out so does not consume Oxygen. They also recirculate cabin air so don’t change humidity, but do keep temp above dew point.

current camper has zero condensation issues in arctic conditions; occasional door & fan use provide plenty of O2.