What is the most foolproof cabinet latch available? The ones we saw in the Sportsmobile West factory last week were round. Push it in-it stayed recessed. Push it again, it came out and you turn it to unlatch the door. Anyone know the model name and number? Anyone know what EarthRoamer or other extreme expedition vahicle manufacturers use? Can anyone suggest anything else that you think is the best available-something that will stay latched no matter how rough the washboarding, potholes, or other bumps are? Thanks in advance.
What is Best Cabinet Latch Available?
- Thread starter TomH
- Start date
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Victorian
Approved Vendor : Total Composites
First:
Used heavy duty side mounted slides from Hettich or Accurite.
Also use quality furniture grade hinges. Piano hinges will be the most sturdy but wont give you room for adjustment...
Latches:
In Germany I have worked many years with pushbutton locks. They work really well, but haven't seen them here in North America yet...
Unicat manufactures their own!
In my camper, I used a standard furniture door lock.
Again, put your focus on durability and not lightweight and you should be fine.
Cheers,
Andreas
Used heavy duty side mounted slides from Hettich or Accurite.
Also use quality furniture grade hinges. Piano hinges will be the most sturdy but wont give you room for adjustment...
Latches:
In Germany I have worked many years with pushbutton locks. They work really well, but haven't seen them here in North America yet...
Unicat manufactures their own!
In my camper, I used a standard furniture door lock.
Again, put your focus on durability and not lightweight and you should be fine.
Cheers,
Andreas
DontPanic42
Adventurer
My 2004 Casita RV has push button locks.
Someone on the Sportsmobile forum recommended this one. I like it. Anyone here used it?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1376
Here's another someone else recommended:
http://www.reidsupply.com/GrpResults.aspx?pid=10022569&aitm=SC-213&apid=10022569
ThomD your suggestion looks good, but $73 is too rich for me:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...01&storeId=11151&partNumber=8672677&langId=-1
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1376
Here's another someone else recommended:
http://www.reidsupply.com/GrpResults.aspx?pid=10022569&aitm=SC-213&apid=10022569
ThomD your suggestion looks good, but $73 is too rich for me:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...01&storeId=11151&partNumber=8672677&langId=-1
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mhiscox
Expedition Leader
This is pretty much the same latch as I used on my Sprinter. They work great, and one side benefit is that you get at-a-glance confirmation of whether the door is open (latch out) or secured (latch in).
I'd buy one of each to examine them and then return what you do not like.
I've never used them, so I don't know how good the construction is. I'd expect the West Marine ones to be very good. Push to release, pull to open, push to lock. I'd expect that the dome front projects very slightly when closed and locked.
OK, I'm a little late to this discussion, but here is what I know:
Southco makes two styles of Pop-Out cabinet latches, model M1-2A . Both of them are mostly plastic, with some stainless hardware. Both push to latch the button in, push again and it pops out for access. Both will lock the cabinet when the putton is in, stated working strength is 50-70 lbs. One version requires popping out, then turning the (knurled) knob to open, the other is smooth and you just pull once popped out to open, it just has an indent feel. Its a pretty nice latch, but plastic. Far better though than the one referenced above from Rockler (my opinion). They aren't terribly expensive, I think you can get them from McMaster.
The one referenced above from Reids is a Southco M1. That particular varient is plastic, however Southco makes the M1 in 316 stainless, and it is a very nice (and not cheap) latch. Stated strength is 122 - 262 lbs. depending on which size. These work well for cabinet doors in small sizes, but the pull is inconvenient for a drawer, maybe would work in the medium or large size (but they get pretty large for a drawer front). There is another version than is a cam action toggle latch (rather than a slam latch) and works well for exterior doors as it will cam down the gasket.
In the Pop-Out latches, the most secure one is the one you must twist. If you have some of those, I recommend going with all of those rather than mixing. I mixed and it becomes confusing - even after a long time - as to which you are dealing with when you grab a pull.
Southco makes two styles of Pop-Out cabinet latches, model M1-2A . Both of them are mostly plastic, with some stainless hardware. Both push to latch the button in, push again and it pops out for access. Both will lock the cabinet when the putton is in, stated working strength is 50-70 lbs. One version requires popping out, then turning the (knurled) knob to open, the other is smooth and you just pull once popped out to open, it just has an indent feel. Its a pretty nice latch, but plastic. Far better though than the one referenced above from Rockler (my opinion). They aren't terribly expensive, I think you can get them from McMaster.
The one referenced above from Reids is a Southco M1. That particular varient is plastic, however Southco makes the M1 in 316 stainless, and it is a very nice (and not cheap) latch. Stated strength is 122 - 262 lbs. depending on which size. These work well for cabinet doors in small sizes, but the pull is inconvenient for a drawer, maybe would work in the medium or large size (but they get pretty large for a drawer front). There is another version than is a cam action toggle latch (rather than a slam latch) and works well for exterior doors as it will cam down the gasket.
In the Pop-Out latches, the most secure one is the one you must twist. If you have some of those, I recommend going with all of those rather than mixing. I mixed and it becomes confusing - even after a long time - as to which you are dealing with when you grab a pull.
Is it just me, or do we seem to be getting spammers making ignorant comments in order
to appear as legit members?
This is the second one i've noticed that joined, made four strange
posts in one day, and had something to sell.
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No, you are not the only one. I figured he was high, drunk, had not slept for a few days, or that krissmoran really meant Kriss Moron. After looking at all of his completely non-sensical posts, I agree with you: he is posting bizarre stuff just so people will click on his link and give him free advertising.
I'm going to recommend the moderators remove all his posts and the replies to them and consider banning him.
DaktariEd
2005, 2006 Tech Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
Done!
PS...if you see spam, click the red & white triangle shaped link in the upper right of each post window (in this case, the link in the spam post), and that will report to us the possible spam. We'll get on it as quickly as we can.
Thanks!!
Done!
PS...if you see spam, click the red & white triangle shaped link in the upper right of each post window (in this case, the link in the spam post), and that will report to us the possible spam. We'll get on it as quickly as we can.
Thanks!!
Thanks.
I did report the other four-poster I ran across, but guess I forgot to on this one.
Is it just a coincidence, or is there something magical about the number four? Both of the spammers I noticed made four posts (without bothering to understand the subject matter), all in the same day.
If so, is there a way to keep these idiots out? I'm afraid we might see a lot more of this in the future, and it really muddies up the board.
(I know, should be in the Admin section. If no response here, I'll put a link there.)