What multi axis hitch do you prefer?

[cnynrat]

I agree with your comments about noise. Definitely can be grating over a long period, and have a real affect on the enjoyment of the trip.

Have there been any cases of a Lock-n-Roll hitch failing in a manner that prevented it from being used to get the trailer home or to a location where it could be repaired/replaced?

 

[Hickey6]

Have to admit, I haven't read the whole thread. Lost me after page 4. But, I would like to offer my experiences.

I first purchased a Lock n Roll and loved it. I still think it is a good hitch, but after I broke it a couple times both on and off road (once in a parking lot and an unloaded trailer), I went with a Max from Martyn, and I prefer it.

The design of the Lock n Roll allows binding in some fairly innocuous jacknife situations, and let's be honest, if you do much manuevering with a trailer, you're going to have to jacknife it from time to time- especially on tight trails and other situations.

I have had no problems with the Max thus far. The Lock n Roll was certainly easier to hitch and unhitch quickly, but the Max is quieter still and is greaseable.

For about the same money, and you need a true off-road hitch, I would suggest the Max after using both several thousand miles. My overlanding takes me on some quite technical terrain and over lots of pavement. I love the Max.

 

[Kevin Justice]

Finally someone has addressed the defects in this trailer coupler. I built working models of this and other 3 axis couplers and they all had limited articulation that would cause structural failure. I designed and built a multi axis trailer coupler that will allow 180 degree movement at x and y axis and 360 at z axis. This coupler will not bind at any point in any combined movement. Machined from high grade materials this coupler is the only one that I can say will function correctly.

 

[ntsqd]

Finally someone has addressed the defects in this trailer coupler. I built working models of this and other 3 axis couplers and they all had limited articulation that would cause structural failure. I designed and built a multi axis trailer coupler that will allow 180 degree movement at x and y axis and 360 at z axis. This coupler will not bind at any point in any combined movement. Machined from high grade materials this coupler is the only one that I can say will function correctly.

Which coupler?
Pictures?

 

[go4aryd]

Here is my 2 cents of experience. I have a P/L, a L&R that came with a trailer and a MAX coupler. I have used all three on all kinds of terrain. The L&R bent the third time I used it - same failure mode and cause as the prior photos. It is not an anomoly.

The MAX works great - but with two batteries in the nose box of the Horizon it is NOT a simple task to re-hitch on uneven ground. It is tedious. Often very tedious, especially solo. It has become more and more frustrating as time passes and I experience it over and over. I won't buy another one until there is an improvement in aligning aids (there is nothing but the taper on the hitch pin). No big deal IF there is someone to help when it is time to hitch up - but it can take forever if you are on your own which seems to often be the case with me. I can do it and have done it many times but everytime I hate it. It is like re-living a nightmare most of the time.

Currently, if I believe I am going to want to drop the trailer, I now use the P/L by choice. Do I really prefer it? Not at all. The MAX is a great off-road tow coupler - superb in every way EXCEPT for solo re-connect in the bush where the ground seems to always be uneven and then the frustration begins...

I have not not used the Max yet with my M100, and it may be a much better fit because I don't have the tongue weight that is on the Horizon - it is pretty well balanced and relatively easy to shift a bit if needed.

If the MAX was improved the make this headache go away, it is the only hitch I would use for off-roading and would buy a couple more for the other trailers. I too, like others posted above, have at times wished the grease zerk was located in a more convenient place - but then the folks who just have to mess with my rig can't fill it full of something I don't want in it!

 

[nwoods]

Go4Yard, I have not used any couplers besides the MAX, but I share your sentiments. It's very challenging to align. Even more challenging to get the pin in or out when connected to the rig. What I have found MUCH easier to do is to remove the pin from the reciever on the vehicle, so the entire assembly stays with the Trailer. Once the vehicle is removed, it is very easy to remove the MAX pin and stow it internally for security.

Give that a try and see if it works better for you. Certainly works better for me.

Aside from that, the MAX is amazing to pull with. Absolutely silent and no lurching whatsoever.

 

[TacoDell]

^ X2... I do it likewise...

I have no complaint with the Max and my M100...
other then I'm older and my back aches more. LoL

My M100 isn't too nose heavy when loaded properly, can be balanced so as not to make the duty a major hate thing.
Maybe a little inconvenience... for an old back

IMO... for what the Max offers off 'da road...
I'd choose no other.


------------------------

OP...

Maybe put a swivel wheel on the tongue stand/jack to help with the heavy weight's alignment protocol ?

 

[Martyn]

The bushing on the max coupler is a very tight fit and it can be a challenge to align the two halves. We find that dropping the trailer side into the vehicle side is easier if it's done from the back and then move forward to the pin location as it's dropped down.

An easier method of detaching the coupler may be to release the pin in the vehicle receiver tube, pull the vehicle forward and leave the coupler assembly in the trailer tongue. Easy to do once the weight has been taken off the coupler with the tongue jack. Realignment and hitching up is also easy using this method.

Obviously it would be easier if the fit of the bushing wasn't so tight, and it could be ground down. The problems may come further down the road as the bushing wears and slop develops between the two halves.

 

[TacoDell]

tho' I find it easiest to remove the coupler from the vehicle's receiver...

if I were to choose the method of uncoupling at the bushing...

I'd bevel/taper the inside surface edge(s), on the rearward wings of the bushing's saddle/Mnt bracket

that might smooth the transition as the bushing is slid into the mount.

seems like an easy fix... with little deformation, as to it's structural strength.

jm 2cents

 

[ntsqd]

When I flat towed my fibreglas buggy (many, many trips over the years) I usually left the slider coupled to the tow bar for storage. I was rarely ever successful in re-connecting the buggy mounted tow bar to the tow rig with the slider's ball still in the coupler. I almost always had to uncouple the slider from the tow bar to slide it into the receiver.
Even with discounting that the DB had 4 tires and a wheelbase (but is self-propelled) it is hard for me to imagine this method being the easiest. I'd be hard on the search for something better if it can't be modified make the coupling more easily done when solo.

 

[Martyn]

When I flat towed my fibreglas buggy (many, many trips over the years) I usually left the slider coupled to the tow bar for storage. I was rarely ever successful in re-connecting the buggy mounted tow bar to the tow rig with the slider's ball still in the coupler. I almost always had to uncouple the slider from the tow bar to slide it into the receiver.
Even with discounting that the DB had 4 tires and a wheelbase (but is self-propelled) it is hard for me to imagine this method being the easiest. I'd be hard on the search for something better if it can't be modified make the coupling more easily done when solo.

Interesting, I've never had a problem doing it this way on several vehicles using different couplers.

 

[ntsqd]

That I can recall in the 12-15 years of towing the buggy around I probably succeeded in stabbing the slider in w/o having to uncouple it maybe 1/2 dozen times. If it is so easy to do with a trailer lighter than mine, the difference must be in the wheel base. With the buggy there was no turning the bar to get the needed alignment like you would with a trailer tongue. I had to hit it perfectly by steering only. Only moderately difficult when the approach was straight-on and on flat ground. Add not level ground or a angled approach and it was pointless to even try.

 

[go4aryd]

I'd bevel/taper the inside surface edge(s), on the rearward wings of the bushing's saddle/Mnt bracket

Ditto - this doesn't need to be this hard. There just hasn't been any design incorporated for hitch alignment. Your suggestion is one, adding some alignment to the vehicle mount would be another (so you position the vehicle, lower into an alignment aid & bracket, pull vehicle forward to set in the alighment aid, place the pin). There are probably a half dozen ways to improve it without significantly impacting mfg costs or structural integrity.

Additionally, if you use the silent hitch, then just pulling the receiver out isn't really a"quick fix" either.

Ah, if only the consumer market were a wee bit bigger.....

 

[ntsqd]

Coining the tabs and adjusting them for width would be the way to do it in production. With the right tooling it would add only one operation to the whole process.

 

[radio_jumper]

I use the Lock n Roll.... I have had no real problems with it so far. But its a pain to hook and unhook. I usually resort to beating it with a hammer