What would you do? Rear suspension maintenance

[P.IVERSON]

Hi, my name is Paul. This is my first time posing a question to the forum, but I have spent a lot of time looking around here to drool over all of the cool builds here on Expedition Portal.

We have an 08 Chevy Silverado 1500, Ext. cab, Z71 4x4 with just a little over 200,000 miles. It is largely stock and runs well. We use it for 3-5 day trips around the mountains in the South West. We have added a topper and some cabinets with a One Up bike rack w/ Swing away. I estimate that with the gear, cabinets, and bike rack that I am have a 600 - 800 pound load all of the time. I am still on stock size tires (about 33") and when the front struts came due, I installed Bilstein 5500 and set them at the first ride height (about 3/4") over stock.

Now I am noticing that the weight is starting to squat the rear of my truck, I think the springs are starting to got tired, and the rear shocks are due for replacement. I haven't found a need a major lift , but would like a little more clearance, no more than 2 Inches. We took the truck with the bike rack over Engineer Pass outside of Silverton Colorado, and that had my wife freaking out, but we made it with out any draging. I will probably to to do a set of Bilstein shocks for the back at the same time as I do the springs.

I think my options are:
1. have the springs re-arched ( just a cold set) and install a helper spring ~$700
2. New custom spring packs from the local spring shop ~$1200
3. New 1500 OEM Springs with Add-A-Leaf ~$500 + My install time
4. New 2500 OEM springs ~$400 + my install time

I have never made any modifications to the suspension of any of my previous vehicles. Any opinions and other Ideas are welcome, and thank you for your time and thoughts.

Paul

 

[NatersXJ6]

Depending on your budget, there is another option for a set of salvage yard springs plus your install time. In urban areas a lot of trucks run around empty most of the time, and those springs can be really lightly used.
If you have never done suspension work before, triple your install time estimate, ensure you have new U-bolts (difficult to guarantee condition on re-use and then you can just cut the old instead of screwing around for hours), and make sure you have all the needed big wrenches, sockets, and floor Jack before starting.

When your axle inevitably won’t line up quite right, ratchet straps can be your best friend.

 

[moose545]

Hey Paul, welcome. I'm new to truck/leaf spring setups, but I'd say heavier springs to start, which typically are part or can be part of a minor lift kit 2" +/-. Deaver makes some HD rear leaf springs, and I'd definitely up the spring rates on all 4 corners to stiff things up and support the weight better. More experienced guys can comment and explain the linear or progressive stuff etc. Take a look at a Bilstein spring rate chart for example, and see your added weight and constant vs. fully loaded expedition load out, and then you'll get a ballpark of where you want to be I think. Good luck!

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

I had the same issue on my old Dodge around the same mileage. I bought new "OEM" springs with an additional leaf (not a short overload leaf) from an online source, don't remember the company but there are several out there. I would not go with the 2500 spring set, way overkill for that vehicle. I've used air bags to level the rear with good results, YMMV.

 

[billiebob]

You have priced it all out but when I needed to replace the flattened leafs on my YJ I found a Rubicon Express 2" lift with shocks was $400 cheaper than 4 new leaf packs from Chrysler. I knew I needed a 2" lift just to get back to as new ride height so not thinking I ordered/installed the RE lift..... getting a 4" lift in the process. The RE springs rode beautifully.

Do the research, I've never had Rough Country springs but on every website I go to they get slagged as rough riding. Find the solition that appeals to you but look at more than just price. I'd lean towards the OEM 1500 springs. Then if those did not level things up add the add a leaf.... Or maybe just add the add a leaf to what you have right now.

I've done custom springs twice on rally cars..... regardless of what the spring shop says I'll never trust a custom spring builder to get it right. There are wayy tooo many after market options. A bit of research will help find the best option.

Anything bolt on can be removed or tweaked easily.

 

[Hammer Time]

As I add weight to my build, I too am getting sag at the back end. A friend suggested "Sumo springs." Anyone familiar with them?

 

[ramblinChet]

A suspension system is a complex system and any changes to an engineered and tested system should not be taken lightly.

OEM springs and shocks are your safest option. If your truck is not capable of carrying the load you desire then a truck with a different load rating is your best option. Also, keep in mind that a truck's suspension and braking system usually optimized for around 50% load capacity. Another way of looking at that would be add up everything you are adding to your truck, camper top, gasoline, you, etc. and let's say you arrive at 1,200 lbs. total load. A truck with a 2,400 lb. load carrying capacity would be ideal.

 

[P.IVERSON]

I spent some more time today making calls and reading about some of my options. I spoke to some very informative folks. I also weighed my truck and with a half tank of gas and the equipment that just stays with the truck and myself it weighed in at 6420#. The truck is rated at 7000# so we are getting close to the GVRW when we add our food bikes and clothes. Although I would like to get a heavier duty truck. The current budget doesn’t allow for that, but it will happen in the future.
For now I am going to install a set of Husky 22-1289 leaf springs ordered from Rockauto. The spring pack is rated for 2235# and 1-1/8” inch thicker than the stock 1900# rated springs. They are designed for both Silverado 1500 and 2500’s depending on the package.

As for the Sumo Springs. I am familiar with them. They look like a very nice product. I have a friend who is installing them on his truck, he is using them for towing his toy hauler when he has his four wheeler in the bed. I am unsure of how these would work for off road applications, probably good, but I thought with the age of the existing springs that replacement was a better option. You should see if anyone on the forum has used them in this type of application.

Paul

 

[montypower]

1. have the springs re-arched ( just a cold set) and install a helper spring ~$700
This will offer the worst (rough) ride. Those springs sound worn out.
2. New custom spring packs from the local spring shop ~$1200
Better option.
3. New 1500 OEM Springs with Add-A-Leaf ~$500 + My install time
Middle option
4. New 2500 OEM springs ~$400 + my install time
Not sure the benefit other than harsher ride

If you really want the best ride possible... then go with some custom Deaver Leaf springs with Fox or King tuned shocks. It will blow your mind compared to any of those options.

If just concerned about "looks" or height... install some air bags, Timbren, or Sumo. Cheap easy.

 

[NatersXJ6]

It sounds like your decision is made, but you need to be careful about the “rated for” numbers on a spring pack.

sag happens on the first 1-3 leaves, depending on the pack. The full rating is achieved when the pack compresses enough to use all the leaves (already sagged)

If the eye to eye distance is the same on 3/4 ton versus 1/2 ton (it might not be), I would get some salvage yard 3/4 ton springs and remove leaves from the bottom until I got approximately what I wanted. Your sag, and most of your operational range, is going to be on the top 3 leaves or so anyway.

It has been decades since I’ve owned a Chevy, so I’m not even sure how many leaves you are working with, but these things are not hard to tune in. I’m a fan of the Ford setup that has a first “overload” on top of the pack for carrying heavy loads. It works really well.

 

[Anti-lander]

Ever think of putting air springs aka helper springs in? They are made just for the guy who tows or hauls more weight than he should, you can make them as stiff or as soft as you need, can even run them at different pressure if you'd also like to get the chevy drivers side lean corrected.
You don't have to have onboard air to run em either unless you'd like to adjust them while driving.

Another option would be haul less stuff around.

 

[NOPEC]

On a 3/4 GMC that I used to have with a truck camper, I used the original steel bolt on Supersprings overloads. They were reasonably priced and totally backyard installable. They made a huge difference for my set up, without messing with my OE rear spring set up. They give you an option of some preload plus their design gives you constant load adjustment based on weight. Maybe a bit old fashioned when compared to some of the new bumpstop stuff but I sure liked them.

 

[P.IVERSON]

Well I watched some YouTube videos about the new spring install, and decided that it was a tougher job than I really wanted to tackle. I did some more research, I poked around at the Sumo springs. The blues sit about a half inch off the axel when unloaded so I still wouldn’t be even be back to stock ride height and the yellows sound like they would be harsh. I’m not sure where the blacks would have put me The guy I was talking to didn’t have them available at this time. I finally decided to get the supper springs model SSA8. They are the more aggressive option for the 1500, and should raise the truck about an inch.

On another note Super Springs International’s website is offing a 15% discount for the month of (March 2022) the code is STEELBETTER . I also ordered a set of Bilstien 5100

I will let you all know how it turns out when I get the install done and include a couple pics.

I really appreciate everyone’s time and input

Paul