where are the Porsche cayenne expo builds?

[brandonelliott]

I went ahead and ordered Toyo Open Country in 255/65/18. Toyo says those are 31.1". I had them on a TRD Pro 4Runner in the past and liked their on-road and off-road characteristics.

I'm guessing with the lift I'll be just fine, but I guess we'll see!

 

[Dave Waldo]

Are you sure about Mud terrains?
I am sure they have improved but I ditched the old BFG Muds I had since I was able to have some wheel spin with 75hp on wet tarmac, I don't wanna know how it will handle emergency brakes.

I always find it interesting when you see high power cars (like your turbo) with off road tires. It is always a compromise.

Definitely mud tyres for me, because it's less of a compromise. They are not a road tyre. If you want a good road tyre, buy a road tyre. I haven't had a set of of off road tyres that were advertised as >70% off-road that weren't like Teflon on a wet road and tons of slip on dry bitumen. Rather than putting up with that I'd rather have a dedicated off-road set and an on road set. If you just want one set you will have to decide how important one type of driving is over the other.

The idea that these cars can be good at both is why I bought one, to reduce that benifit by putting on tyres that are part way between on and off-road defeats the purpose for me. They can be good on road and reasonable off road just by changing tyres/wheels and adjusting the suspension settings. I have good tyres and wheels on it now for road use. Change wheels, jack the suspension up, select off-road, lock 1, 2, or hopefully 3 diffs and it's a half decent off road car. The compromise is suspension travel but I'm happy with that for the on road performance and I want to be different than all the Japanese 4x4s around. The only issue is if I'm going to be the guy bush bashing in a Porsche I can't be the guy stuck in the Porsche so it needs to be better than the average guy in his Hilux.

Mud terrain work best everywhere I go, sand, rocks and mud.

 

[Dave Waldo]

I'm running KO2's this time, I'm happy and satisfied with em.. but next time I think I'mna give Duratrac's a try, they are lighter so even tho I'll be stepping up from a 30in to a 31.5in wheel size the'll be several pounds of rotating mass shaved off.

I do like the BFG's for their weight.

 

[dreadlocks]

ah crap I had some crossed wires there, sorry.. not Duratrac's those are heavy beasts.. I'm eyeing Falken Wildpeak, weighs 41lbs for the 31.5's, vs 45lbs for my 30in KO2's.. thats 16lbs of mass shed off drivetrain and wheels are bigger, should bring back some pep.

pattern and stuff looks pretty much same as KO2's, and they got the severe snow rating I'm after that grabbers don't have.. heard good things about em so figured I'd give em a shot after 18 years of KO2's

 

[Dave Waldo]

Choices are a bit easier for me, I never drive on snow or ice.

 

[Cayenne-958-TDI]

Hi All just discovered this page via Otis. We test and now start selling Cayenne prepared for overland driving.. this car here currently hold the world record in nonstop driving from Nordkap to South Africa in less than 9 days.. There are many good things with Cayennes.
E1 is the way for real off road
E2 is an OK compromise, but aim for V8 with Porsche center diff
E3 avoid- made for hair dressers
soon we open a page with parts and cars for sale.
Jan

Jan,
Glad to see you here - as you know we saw your Cayenne almost eight years ago. Your 'Zebra' Cayenne is what made us decide to purchase our 958. We took a lot of your build ideas and added some of our own. As you have demonstrated - Cayenne's are definitely capable machines. 'Otis' has never let us down taking us every where from the hot Chihuahua Desert to north of the Arctic circle last month where we temps dropped to -40F
Looking forward to seeing the parts and cars you will be offering!

 

[TyScot]

If it helps, I ran the Falken Wildpeaks on my old 07 FJC, they were absolutely awesome. When the tires get to replacement point on my Touareg I'll more then likely be downsizing the wheels so I can run them on that as well.

 

[marcantoine77]

I've installed Michelins Lattitude Cross (955) My insurance company only validated these tires.

Envoyé de mon SM-G977B en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[mep1811]

I had two sets of the General Grabbers ATs and liked them. I got 50K out of each set. They no longer make it in my size. 255-55-18 A/T tires in that size are limited. I'm running Nitto Ridge Grapplers .

Although not snowflake rated, they were great in the snow, I did have a chance for some mud driving and these tires do clean themselves off much better that the Generals.

 

[Dave Waldo]

I'm working on measuring this up this weekend. IMO tyres are the single best upgrade you can do, on or off road.

The taller the better and always a mud terrain for me.

Some guys are fitting 33/12.5/(17/18) with a small amount of modification and no lift, I have had a quick look at my car and I think it will be difficult to fit them. It is possible that the wheel arches are different between cars but I don't know. On the LHF I have the plumbing for the 4 zone climate control and on the RHF I have the PDCC valve body. Plus on both sides the intercoolers top front.

I'm ok with moving the intercoolers but not the air-conditioning plumbing or the PDCC, maybe tidy it up a bit but that's all I'm prepared to do. I don't see the front of the wheel arch as a problem but the back sides I can remove some seams tidy up some wiring, maybe reduce some spacers and gain a bit over 1/2".

I hope I can reuse the full lining with some modifications and refixing.

I don't like wheel spacers, you should check the fixings and wheel nuts regularly, they have a tendency to come loose. So I found a guy who imports blank wheels and machines them to suit so shouldn't need to use them...... hopefully.

If the tyre ends up sticking out I was looking at these - https://ezflares.com/product/ezflares-classic/

I measured up today.

The existing tyres are 295/35/21 on 21x10 55ET wheels. The inside of the tyre sits 25mm inside the outer most point of the upper control arm.



For the tyre to clear the upper control arm ball joint I will need to run a narrower tyre on a 8j18 35ET wheel (that's the furthest out offset in these wheels) a 275 should give me 5mm clearance before taking into account I'm going from (this is where I'm a bit unsure) 10" wheels to 8", I imagine this will be good for around 12mm probably more side clearance per side but gain some more height.

On the same size wheel, these tyres would then stick out another 10mm. On the narrower wheel they will probably protrude a bit less.

For the next measurements I have been cautious and have assumed the same external protrusion for both.

With the wheel turned to the point where in it's arc it is the closest to the wheel arch (allowing for the proposed 275mm with the largest diameter tyre to the point of contact) it measures 56mm clearance not including the seam, I estimate there is another 3mm of material can be cleaned off this face without cutting back the parent metal.

The existing tyre measures 735mm at its highest point (middle section less about 10mmx2 at the edges) plus a maximum of 112mm (56x2) existing clearance leaves a theoretical maximum tyre OD of ≥847mm or ≥33.4".

This might be different for different models but others have fitted 33/12.5/18 just by grinding back the seams and fixing the inner lining closer to the arch. So I think 33's are probably my max. With around 10mm change to scrub radius which I think would be within factory specs given the variety of wheels and tyres that come as options..

 

[dreadlocks]

Went to go tune/delete my TDI this last weekend as a birthday present to my self, found the rear main was leaking oil.. backed off voiding the warranty just yet, drove it down the street to Audi Denver and they are yanking the engine out, replacing the rear main.. also re-sealing the upper oil pan.. plus fixing any other damage it caused (i think it f'd up rack and pinion) all under the extended emissions warranty.. this is easy gonna be a $10k job if it came out of my pockets.

Funny thing is, its sitting at the dealer getting warranty work and in the back its got a box with a full delete kit and a stg2 tune.. this is one of the reasons why I waited last moment to get it fixed, so any other issues that might be covered would be known and I would not have to ride this nerfed fix for long.. infact its like the only major work covered by the warranty that is worth using it for, so once they re-seal up all my engine leaks the only things left they would cover are all the things I'm about to put into that cardboard box sitting in the back..

In the meantime, I've been in a research haze.. I've figured out all the parts and bits I need to install the factory Webasto Diesel Parking heater from Europe.. thats the next big project for the Audi, since with all the emissions gear about to be removed its going to take even longer to get heat out of it in the winter.. I can retrofit that on for ~$700USD then I'll have factory integrated diesel heater that can remotely warm the cabin up in about 5-10mins w/out engine running.. and then continues to run while driving until engine is up to temp.

here's what the parking heater looks like if anyone is interested, I have most of the info gathered for this retrofit but you Porsche guys got more to figure out since you cant use a VCDS to enable the hidden features.


Without parking heater installed there are just a couple of straight through pipes in the fender that go to the heater cores.. the whole unit replaces that, adds a circulation pump and has magnetic valves to isolate the heater cores and parking heater from the engine while in operation.. I can code that option out to get block heating out of it too, but thats like 30mins to warm up v 10mins from what I've gathered.. think I'll upgrade my diagnostic tool so I can use a wifi phone app, then I could switch on the fly to block heater when its actually desired without so much hassle.

*edit*
Here's a link to my research documentation thats currently in progress: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zca_rdqVE-hDnuBZ-3xCJ-WQcndexPTwPfmOyBrLXUE/edit?usp=sharing

 

[Dave Waldo]

Went to go tune/delete my TDI this last weekend as a birthday present to my self, found the rear main was leaking oil.. backed off voiding the warranty just yet, drove it down the street to Audi Denver and they are yanking the engine out, replacing the rear main.. also re-sealing the upper oil pan.. plus fixing any other damage it caused (i think it f'd up rack and pinion) all under the extended emissions warranty.. this is easy gonna be a $10k job if it came out of my pockets.

Funny thing is, its sitting at the dealer getting warranty work and in the back its got a box with a full delete kit and a stg2 tune.. this is one of the reasons why I waited last moment to get it fixed, so any other issues that might be covered would be known and I would not have to ride this nerfed fix for long.. infact its like the only major work covered by the warranty that is worth using it for, so once they re-seal up all my engine leaks the only things left they would cover are all the things I'm about to put into that cardboard box sitting in the back..

In the meantime, I've been in a research haze.. I've figured out all the parts and bits I need to install the factory Webasto Diesel Parking heater from Europe.. thats the next big project for the Audi, since with all the emissions gear about to be removed its going to take even longer to get heat out of it in the winter.. I can retrofit that on for ~$700USD then I'll have factory integrated diesel heater that can remotely warm the cabin up in about 5-10mins w/out engine running.. and then continues to run while driving until engine is up to temp.

here's what the parking heater looks like if anyone is interested, I have most of the info gathered for this retrofit but you Porsche guys got more to figure out since you cant use a VCDS to enable the hidden features.
View attachment 579583

Without parking heater installed there are just a couple of straight through pipes in the fender that go to the heater cores.. the whole unit replaces that, adds a circulation pump and has magnetic valves to isolate the heater cores and parking heater from the engine while in operation.. I can code that option out to get block heating out of it too, but thats like 30mins to warm up v 10mins from what I've gathered.. think I'll upgrade my diagnostic tool so I can use a wifi phone app, then I could switch on the fly to block heater when its actually desired without so much hassle.

Where does the fuel tank go ? Not that I'll ever need one, just interested.

 

[dreadlocks]

it uses the same fuel tank as the engine.. I gotta get a lift pump from Germany that has the extra feed tube coming out the top or else gotta drill and tap the tank and that sounds terrible w/a clean OEM solution available.. since its OEM it wont run if its low on fuel or battery voltage.. think you can run it up to 4x 30min cycles before it locks out regardless and forces you to drive to recharge battery before you can turn it back on again.

 

[Cayenne-958-TDI]

With help from Jeff Lebesch and Euan Pollock the Porsche Club of America just posted this as the lead piece in PCA News. It is also their lead article in PCA PerFourmance News that is dedicated to SUVs and four door cars.
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Driving Porsches in the harsh ALCAN 5000 Rally | Porsche Club of America

ALCAN 5000 Winter 2020: 5,120 miles one way from Seattle north to the Arctic Ocean, finishing in Anchorage for the start of the Iditarod. Photos provided by "Otis" Porsche unless noted.

www.pca.org

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[dreadlocks]

@Dave Waldo I was doing some research on the rear diff and found that its not possible to lock the rear diff in high range.. the stepper motor moves a little gear selector that shifts into low range before it reaches the locking position.. you'd have to custom machine parts to allow it to work.