where_the_heffalump_roams 917 AF

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
VerMonsterRV, did you swap the brakes out yourself and have that shop rivet/glue the pads on? Or did you use a shop local to Reno to help with the brakes?
I did the brakes ourselves. There is likely a shop in Reno that could do it for you, but I didn't look into it. Our new linings were both riveted and glued on. I would recommend that you have the needed rivets as these are metric and are a bit hard to come by in the USA. Best to find them and have them in hand to give to them.

Why did I go to a local shop? I didn't want to mail out the shoes, which now are very had to come by.
 
Thanks!
I'll try to find local truck shop that can help. In other news, I nice gentleman that was following me let me know the truck is out of alignment and is "crab walking" down the road. I had hoped swapping out broken leaf spring in the past fixed this but apparently it's still pretty bad. I did an inspection of the undercarriage and did not see any more broken leaf springs or loose parts.
I'm hoping the frame rails are are not bent!
 
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Spent the afternoon removing the Webasto Type C hydronic heater.
I took I it apart, did some cleaning, noted a very clogged up screen where the fuel enters the chamber. There is significant carbon build up which I could not remove with what I have on hand. I didn't see how this can be replaced online. I also noted one the clips where harness plugs was broken and the current can't maintain good contact. Winter is coming soon and that is my favorite season. I often spend days/weeks at above 1500 meters in freezing temps. The habitat is set up to be warmed by a hydronic system. The heffalump is dependent on a heat system or the engine will not start.
So I'm at a cross roads, I need to either continue trying to repair the Webasto, buy being a new harness or connecter, or replace it. I haven't seen a connector that is needed online and only the full harness for about $150 USD. And I'm not confident that will get the heating system going again. I'm wondering about replacing the current unit with a more expensive Espar kit that is supposley more hardy at altitude and has less carbon build up issues. I probalby need to pull the trigger and either do a repair or install within the coming weeks.

I'd love some feedback from others using hydronic systems.

Thanks!
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Spent the afternoon removing the Webasto Type C hydronic heater.
I took I it apart, did some cleaning, noted a very clogged up screen where the fuel enters the chamber. There is significant carbon build up which I could not remove with what I have on hand. I didn't see how this can be replaced online. I also noted one the clips where harness plugs was broken and the current can't maintain good contact. Winter is coming soon and that is my favorite season. I often spend days/weeks at above 1500 meters in freezing temps. The habitat is set up to be warmed by a hydronic system. The heffalump is dependent on a heat system or the engine will not start.
So I'm at a cross roads, I need to either continue trying to repair the Webasto, buy being a new harness or connecter, or replace it. I haven't seen a connector that is needed online and only the full harness for about $150 USD. And I'm not confident that will get the heating system going again. I'm wondering about replacing the current unit with a more expensive Espar kit that is supposley more hardy at altitude and has less carbon build up issues. I probalby need to pull the trigger and either do a repair or install within the coming weeks.

I'd love some feedback from others using hydronic systems.

Thanks!
I would vote for repair.

The Webasto Dual Top is not hydronic, but I would note that the burner is considered a consumable part, to be replaced every two/three years. Ask Joe917 if he knows when it was last replaced.


FWIW, full overhaul in UK costs out at near $1000. Granted, this included descaling the water tank and some other tasks, but the bottom line is that you are probably looking at over $500 in parts every third year no matter what you do. So a new harness and burner seems completely reasonable for this type of unit.

I would doubt that the ESPAR unit is much different, but I have no/no experience.
 
I would vote for repair.

The Webasto Dual Top is not hydronic, but I would note that the burner is considered a consumable part, to be replaced every two/three years. Ask Joe917 if he knows when it was last replaced.


FWIW, full overhaul in UK costs out at near $1000. Granted, this included descaling the water tank and some other tasks, but the bottom line is that you are probably looking at over $500 in parts every third year no matter what you do. So a new harness and burner seems completely reasonable for this type of unit.

I would doubt that the ESPAR unit is much different, but I have no/no experience.
Thank for the thoughts. I found a plug for $15 that I'm hoping to swap out by simply de-pinning the wires. I also found that rebuilt webastos are fairly common and pretty cheap. So I ordered one so I can swap it in a couple of weeks. There are parts of the USA where the tenps are already dropping so I want to have a usable unit soon.

The heffalump was taken in for an alignment and was found to have mismatched rear leaf springs. The left rear springs are pushing the rear axel back about 12-14 mm. So I've been calling around trying to find a shop that can make a parabolic spring set to match them.

The heffalump is currently at Zero Declinations getting system upgrades this week. I'm visiting friends down in Guatemala and trying to land the ground work for future research projects. It always feels really good being down here. Woke up on Saturday and enjoyed morning coffee on their balcony. Last night we had some wonderful street food.
 

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Pacific Northwest yetti

Expedition Medic
It looks beautiful down there right now! I have been missing South America a lot as of late. I never spent much time in Central.

Johns, Sprins in Reno may be able to help you.



Merchant Logo
John's Spring and Suspension LLC
4.9
71 Google reviews
Auto spring shop in Reno, Nevada
Service options: In-store shopping
Address: 455 Sunshine Ln, Reno, NV 89502
You visited in June 2022


Hours:
Open ⋅ Closes 5 PM
Phone: (775) 329-6159
 
It looks beautiful down there right now! I have been missing South America a lot as of late. I never spent much time in Central.

Johns, Sprins in Reno may be able to help you.



Merchant Logo
John's Spring and Suspension LLC
4.9
71 Google reviews
Auto spring shop in Reno, Nevada
Service options: In-store shopping
Address: 455 Sunshine Ln, Reno, NV 89502
You visited in June 2022


Hours:
Open ⋅ Closes 5 PM
Phone: (775) 329-6159

They are the shop that identified the asymmetrical rear springs. :) Really nice guys.
But they do not have access to parabolic springs or ability to make springs.
 
Betts Truck Parts, various locations all over California, can and will make custom leaf springs and u-bolts.
I've worked with them before and actually reached out regarding parabolic springs. Most shops don't make them. I'm waiting to hear back from them and a few other places.

**edit/add**
In other news. I emailed the shop where the heffalup was for repairs. I let them know their airline splices had failed. They advised me to take the truck elsewhere for repairs. That is the worst level of professionalism I've ever experienced in any industry.
 
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DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
I've worked with them before and actually reached out regarding parabolic springs. Most shops don't make them. I'm waiting to hear back from them and a few other places.

**edit/add**
In other news. I emailed the shop where the heffalup was for repairs. I let them know their airline splices had failed. They advised me to take the truck elsewhere for repairs. That is the worst level of professionalism I've ever experienced in any industry.

Atkinson Vos. Bit of a drive, but that is where we went. https://www.unimogs.co.uk/

Edited: The Vermonster has found folk in Germany who do springs.
 
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The past few days have been spent trying to address some issues with the truck. I"m not a mechanic or carpenter and have limited skills. I returned from Guatemala and picked up the truck last week. The shop installed a 110v batter charger while I was away. I think one of the "bragging rights" of the truck is how it has never really used shore power while in use. But since I haven't figured out the generator issue, I also wanted a charge system that could be used in N. America.
The shop also installed a cruising comfort a/c system. It didn't go quite as planned and they weren't able to install it in an external box that housed the old a/c unit. It is apparently made to be installed in the interior of habits so it was placed in the only spot that sort of made sense. The problem with that is that it was too large and didn't fit. Water was also leaking at one of the drain hoses and I found a loose hose clamp. I thought that might take care of it but I also think the drain hose might be restricted by some expanding foam that was use where it routes the floor. I'll have to open that up and see maybe route the drain house through some protective piping or even use a hose that might be as compressible.

I went to a friends house where I can use his tools and park the truck for a bit. I bought some sections of 4" aluminum and modified the face of the old cab to better enclose the new a/c system. It looks like and obvious add on, but I think it came out ok. Total material cost including hardware was under $30 + a $40 rivnut tool I've been wanting.
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Then position of the condenser also took up a consider amount of space and wasn't optimal for airflow. That was an easy project that only took a few minutes of massaging to better position it. They way it was installed, the fan faced the rear of the box on the left side. The old condenser faced the back of the box where it could pull in air so that was replicated. I think I could throw in 2-3 batteries here in the future without sacrificing much air flow.

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There are a few advantages of this new a/c system. It draws way less power and is more usable. The old system ran off the generator so it essentially need to be parked to be used. With this system, the habitat can be cooled while being driven. This is a nice luxury when driving through +40c weather.
Using another piece of that 4" aluminum slab, a mount was made to hang this cradle I had. I still need to fab up something for the front axel, snowboard, shovel, etc... I also have some aluminum L track that I want a welder to tack on. That will be used to hang some of my gear and also tie down loose ********.

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Some months ago, I commissioned a small wood shop to make a new counter and table top using 7 different woods that I thought would brighten up the home. But that guy fell through and never made it. So I asked for a refund. I had also considered a stainless steel ring to cover the larger hole used when the old propane stove was swapped out for a smaller induction unit. But the quoted prices were as high as the cost of simply installing a new counter top. So when I at the metal shop, I also bought a small aluminum sheet and made this ring.

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I"m using the scrap aluminum from the center ring and reporting it to make some small bathroom shelves along with some scrap "live edge" wood my friend had leftover from another project. That is still in the works.
When I bought the heffalump, the windshield wipers hardly moved and were activating 90% of the time when the left turn indicator was used. Awhile back, I bought a new windshield wiper motor for about $100. However it only has 2 speeds vs the existing 3. The old motor was rebuilt, but I need to pick it up and install it. Yesterday, I recieved a new wiper stalk for $90 and swapped it out. The horn, turn indicators, and 2 of the 3 wiper speeds now work. Not having to turn off the wiper blades when doing left hand turns will be nice. :)
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Also wired in new fan for the natures head compost toilet. When bought, it had some spliced up wiring that wasn't working. So about $20 was spent on a new wire plug and fan. I'm not sure how much this helps with venting/drying. But the a-type side of my brain doesn't like having a bunch of things not working. So I've been trying to tackle small projects like this while I can.
 

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Now onto the problematic projects where I could use some help....
This habitat is warmed by a webasto type c coolant heater. The truck is also dependent on this system to pre-heat the engine for cold weather starts. I'm a snowboarder and I spend more time in the mountains in the winter vs anywhere else. I'll come down for few days or about a week a month for work. Earlier this year, I had problems with the heater. It would fire up, cycle about 2-3 times over 10 minutes, and power down. A few weeks ago, I removed it, took it apart, tried cleaning it, installed a new glow plug, but that didn't help. When I did this, I accidently broke this lock on the larger connector.
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Last week, I went to a camper van build shop that also works with webastos/espar units, however they were not familiar with this particular webasto. They weren't sure why it wasn't working and even installed a new fuel pump as part of the diagnostic work up (didn't charge for that). Super nice guys but the problem wasn't resolved.

This weekend, I rebuild unit that I purchased arrived 1 month early. That got me exited as it also came with a wire harness, and a CD for diagnostics. The plugs were the same although the larger plug had 4 wires vs the 3 wires that mine used. The pins are pretty small and I was afraid of damaging more ********, I stopped by an auto electric place and he de-pinned the plugs and swapped out the pieces so that the existing harness could lock in again. I got really excited and swapped in the rebuilt webasto heater.
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Unfortunalty, the heater isn't firing up at all now.
I didn't pull the cover that goes over plugs x3-x5. I'll do that today to see if they have are being used or of I need to swap anything over from my old unit.
  • I'm getting voltage at plug x2 at pin #1.
  • I"m not seeing any voltage at any of the pins at for plug x1 and I believe pin #1 at plug x1 is power.
  • There are 2 ground wires on the old harness that were bolted on the heater body. The new heater was not threaded for this so I grounded those wires to the truck chassis.
  • I'm getting voltage at the fuses.


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Parts of the USA are already seeing colder temps and I'm running out of time and I really need to get this going. Any help/guidance/referrals would be greatly appreciated.
 
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