where_the_heffalump_roams 917 AF
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where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
In other news. Last month, the heffalump received its best addition of 2023.
Earlier this year Tobi was brought to a vet in central California. He looked to be around 6-8 kilos. He was severely malnourished, found with multiple shotgun wounds, and shut down emotionally. He was close to being euthanized when he was rescued by a local group. (Pit bulls are often euthanized in America) Over a period of a few months, he received medical care and rotated through 2 foster homes who helped nurse his mind and body. This past month we have been traveling and getting to know each other. So far, Tobi doesn't share my exictment for playing outside. We will see if that changes as he gains weight, his confidence improves, and his personality comes out. For now, he loves staying close by as I work on projects and that is just fine with me.
Earlier this year Tobi was brought to a vet in central California. He looked to be around 6-8 kilos. He was severely malnourished, found with multiple shotgun wounds, and shut down emotionally. He was close to being euthanized when he was rescued by a local group. (Pit bulls are often euthanized in America) Over a period of a few months, he received medical care and rotated through 2 foster homes who helped nurse his mind and body. This past month we have been traveling and getting to know each other. So far, Tobi doesn't share my exictment for playing outside. We will see if that changes as he gains weight, his confidence improves, and his personality comes out. For now, he loves staying close by as I work on projects and that is just fine with me.
Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
Critters make for the best people.
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
Welp, the electical gremlins keep peering their heads with the heffalump.
2 years ago, the heffalump was shipped to Bellingham, WA where it sat in grey weather for a couple of week. So there wasn't much solar harvesting. When I went to go pick it up, the 2 starter batteries were flat so they were replaced. Over a period of about 1 year, one of the positive terminals leaked fluid and caused corrosion. That was was cleaned up several times with a mixture of baking soda/lime/water. The problem persisted and over the past 2 years, I've replaced a positive terminal about 3 times and also swapped batteries. The cable was cut back, cleaned, and soaked in the same solution a few times.
Last week, I ended a work shift early in the morning to find that the batteries were dead. I carry a Truck PAC 3000 and tried jumping it to no avail. When the autopart stores opened up, I secured 2, AGM batteries, and again repeated the process of cleaning, replacing terminals, and added electrical grease.
This past week, I monitored the connections and didn't see any corrosion. I previously added a dash gauge to monitor voltage. When the truck is on, it's reading between 26=27v.
This morning, I woke up to flat batteries again. I arrived here on Friday. Moved the truck on the lot yesterday, it's been parked since. I hooked my jump pack that was fully charged and it drained it within seconds. I'm now reading 8.6v. I'm wondering if I've got a parasitic draw somewhere. But I'm not sure where to look since the truck's system is so simple and doesn't have a modern ECU. The lights are off. Nothing on the dash was left on. Currently in Issaquah, WA at a friends farm.
Any input/help would again be appreciated. :-/
2 years ago, the heffalump was shipped to Bellingham, WA where it sat in grey weather for a couple of week. So there wasn't much solar harvesting. When I went to go pick it up, the 2 starter batteries were flat so they were replaced. Over a period of about 1 year, one of the positive terminals leaked fluid and caused corrosion. That was was cleaned up several times with a mixture of baking soda/lime/water. The problem persisted and over the past 2 years, I've replaced a positive terminal about 3 times and also swapped batteries. The cable was cut back, cleaned, and soaked in the same solution a few times.
Last week, I ended a work shift early in the morning to find that the batteries were dead. I carry a Truck PAC 3000 and tried jumping it to no avail. When the autopart stores opened up, I secured 2, AGM batteries, and again repeated the process of cleaning, replacing terminals, and added electrical grease.
This past week, I monitored the connections and didn't see any corrosion. I previously added a dash gauge to monitor voltage. When the truck is on, it's reading between 26=27v.
This morning, I woke up to flat batteries again. I arrived here on Friday. Moved the truck on the lot yesterday, it's been parked since. I hooked my jump pack that was fully charged and it drained it within seconds. I'm now reading 8.6v. I'm wondering if I've got a parasitic draw somewhere. But I'm not sure where to look since the truck's system is so simple and doesn't have a modern ECU. The lights are off. Nothing on the dash was left on. Currently in Issaquah, WA at a friends farm.
Any input/help would again be appreciated. :-/
Batteries need to be disconnected and then charged separately with a proper AGM charger then load tested individually. I’m guessing you will find a dead cell on one of them. If they are a week old…. Infant mortality.
What brand are they? I’m going to guess you bought them at a store that starts with a vowel? When I used to do that with my Powerstroke, they batteries could be counted in to die and exhibit similar behavior every 18-19 months.
What brand are they? I’m going to guess you bought them at a store that starts with a vowel? When I used to do that with my Powerstroke, they batteries could be counted in to die and exhibit similar behavior every 18-19 months.
Additional thoughts:
1 I’m guessing your jump box should be able to start your truck directly if you have a hot engine (no glow system) and can hook it to the cables without the truck batteries connected. That might be a useful test.
2 Someone smarter than me will chime in, but I think a 24V AGM system should charge at 28.2-29.4V, so your charging system is gradually killing your batteries chemically, not just undercharging them.
1 I’m guessing your jump box should be able to start your truck directly if you have a hot engine (no glow system) and can hook it to the cables without the truck batteries connected. That might be a useful test.
2 Someone smarter than me will chime in, but I think a 24V AGM system should charge at 28.2-29.4V, so your charging system is gradually killing your batteries chemically, not just undercharging them.
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DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
A bit extreme, but we have a dedicated B2B that uses our camper battery to charge our starter batteries. Like many people, our truck sits for months at a time in storage.
There are a few tricks needed to make this work, specifically a normally "off" relay and a normally "on" relay, but, other than cost, it works well. Our Interstate batteries are coming on five years and were just tested in good condition. I should wire a kill switch to disable this B2B when we are actually traveling as the alternator charges the starter batteries properly, but I have a large enough camper battery bank that I have never bothered and the B2B simply sits in float.
There are a few tricks needed to make this work, specifically a normally "off" relay and a normally "on" relay, but, other than cost, it works well. Our Interstate batteries are coming on five years and were just tested in good condition. I should wire a kill switch to disable this B2B when we are actually traveling as the alternator charges the starter batteries properly, but I have a large enough camper battery bank that I have never bothered and the B2B simply sits in float.
Iain_U1250
Explorer
If you don't have a proper battery monitor, then get yourself one of these, https://www.amazon.com.au/Multimete...ords=amazon+clamp+meter&qid=1702239907&sr=8-8
Just clamp it over one of the wires going to the battery, and you will see the current draw. Make sure you get one that measures DC current, the even cheaper ones just do AC current. They are not super accurate, but an quick way to see what is happening.
A better way to do it is to get a proper battery monitor with a 500A shunt. Then you will see what is happening and have alarms etc.
There is something wrong if you have to replace battery terminals often - I have never had to replace one in 40 years. If you are constantly replacing them and the batteries, the low current draw may have something to do with it. Since these are your starter batteries, put a heavy duty switch (500A +) into the circuit, and switch them off when you are parked up.
As the other have said, check your alternator, A 24V system should be around 28V for a full charged battery.
Just clamp it over one of the wires going to the battery, and you will see the current draw. Make sure you get one that measures DC current, the even cheaper ones just do AC current. They are not super accurate, but an quick way to see what is happening.
A better way to do it is to get a proper battery monitor with a 500A shunt. Then you will see what is happening and have alarms etc.
There is something wrong if you have to replace battery terminals often - I have never had to replace one in 40 years. If you are constantly replacing them and the batteries, the low current draw may have something to do with it. Since these are your starter batteries, put a heavy duty switch (500A +) into the circuit, and switch them off when you are parked up.
As the other have said, check your alternator, A 24V system should be around 28V for a full charged battery.
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
I pulled them this morning. One is setting on a trickle charger with an AGM setting. I'll leave it through late evening and throw the other one on overnight. It's a slow process, I think it's a 5 amp charger. and the batteries are Duralasts from Autozone, 96 amps, 1000 crank amps each. The prior batteries were from Napa and I thought the issue was a terminal leak that lead to corrosion. The problem that I found out is that although Napa is a chain, they are individually owned. So you have to go back to the exact store with any issues with the original receipt. With other chains, (O'Reily's Autozone), you can use any store and they also keep your purchases in their data banks.
When driving, the batteries have been reading pretty consistently at 27.4-27.7 volts. Sometimes 28 volts, but very rarely. That was with the original alternator and also with an aftermarket one that was installed a few months ago.
I'm currently on a friends farm, he has a meter that he had me using for a bit.
He thought the continuity at the main power cable was reading low. This was checked while the batteries were removed. He was telling me he thought it should be reading as overload. He had me pull fuses and check for any circuits that didn't read overload. I found 3 pictured here.
This is all gibberish to me without the context of understanding electric systems more. Not sure if this is useful info or not.We also had some animal drama today that we just got through (I'm here to help on their farm). I'm hoping he can chime in again when he is done with transporting one of their cows.
In other fun news, I realized my gas cap is now gone... I topped of in Oregon before arriving here where gas attendants fill your tank. I'm wondering if it was forgotten, placed on loose, or taken off by someone between the 2 days before I arrived here. I'm hoping it's a universal cap that I can find in auto stores. I have plastic over it now now...
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Joe917
Explorer
There is a main battery shut off switch I never used but might be of use to save the batteries until you track this gremlin down.
When you face the battery box it is top right behind a stainless vanity cover. You have to turn it with a "key" probably hanging right there, basically any flat piece of steel will turn it.
When you face the battery box it is top right behind a stainless vanity cover. You have to turn it with a "key" probably hanging right there, basically any flat piece of steel will turn it.
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
Is that what you are referring to? The switch on the top? This is right next to the battery box.
I actually considered a kill switch but was thinking that was going to be a chore with all thick the main power wire is. If that top “key” is the kill switch, that would be a life safer and could be a very helpful tool against getting stranded until this gets figured out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
where_the_heffalump_roams
Active member
It's dark/wet outside right now. But I did look really quick.
There may not be anything actually connected to the the top switch. I'll have a better look when it's light out again.
And thanks Joe, sharing your experience with this truck is always helpful.
There may not be anything actually connected to the the top switch. I'll have a better look when it's light out again.
And thanks Joe, sharing your experience with this truck is always helpful.
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