Will reducing wire size after a long run drop my voltage?
- Thread starter VoodooCLD
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Superduty
Adventurer
Maybe?
I don't know if one can buy the bare connector that plugs into the arb, which means no matter what size wire one runs to the fridge you are still stuck with a short length of 14 or 16 ga wire that comes from the connector that you have to splice to.
My point is don't miss the forest through the trees. Don't overthink the wiring for a fridge. It's fairly straight forward - just use 8 or 10 ga and you will be fine.
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DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Which end is being discussed, the fridge side or the power side? What's to prevent someone from just cutting the presumably poor threaded or cigar plug off and using something better?
I want to have a quick connecting DC panel that i can plug things in to. I don't want a cable with an SAE connector just dangling in my bed. As far as I've seen, no one makes cigarette outlets or the ARB threaded connector with anything but a .250 slide on connector. I agree that i would like something more robust, especially cause my modestly rated 8 gauge cable almost has to be trimmed in half to fit in a 10 gauge terminal. If anyone has any ideas i'd like to hear them. I'm kind of kicking my self for running the 8 gauge wire, as it's been nothing but a pain in the butt since i can't use standard crimp connectors.
I just ordered some 10 gauge piggyback connectors off amazon. I'll trim the 8 gauge wire down to fit a piggyback terminal and plug that in to the ARB port which should supply way more amps than needed. Then off the piggyback terminal i'll run 16 gauge over to the two cigarette outlets. It's going to be tough to fit everything in the small plastic box, but will be nice and unobtrusive when mounted to the side of the bed.
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DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Sounds like the Engel situation. The DC side on the fridge seems to be unobtainium.
If ARB uses the same one you can get the cable for an Engel MT60. It does not come pre-terminated with a plug as the larger fridge is designed to be hardwired.
It's usually about $10 cheaper than the other cable. Still stupid to have to pay so much for a cable because of some custom molded connector.
Just keep it on the down low, everyone dreads hearing that knock at the door...
Piggyback Connectors? You can't be serious about wanting to preserve voltage because everything about the connectors you are using negates it. Blade connectors of any type are exactly the wrong thing for someone concerned about conductivity. They suck. And those piggyback connectors suck even more.
The reason every cigarette lighter has blade connectors is because the VAST majority of appliances with cigarette lighter plugs are not voltage sensitive. They will work down to 10v. Read the fine print on your plugs. They will have the voltage range right on them.
There are tons of panel mount SAE connectors available. However, having a couple of inches of duplex cable hanging isn't the end of the world. It actually makes it significantly easier to attach and detach than a panel mount due to the tightness of the connection.
If you want real robustness in a panel mount connector, use a Battery Tender Trolling Motor Plug. It's a better detachable connection that anything short of an Anderson connector.
The reason every cigarette lighter has blade connectors is because the VAST majority of appliances with cigarette lighter plugs are not voltage sensitive. They will work down to 10v. Read the fine print on your plugs. They will have the voltage range right on them.
There are tons of panel mount SAE connectors available. However, having a couple of inches of duplex cable hanging isn't the end of the world. It actually makes it significantly easier to attach and detach than a panel mount due to the tightness of the connection.
If you want real robustness in a panel mount connector, use a Battery Tender Trolling Motor Plug. It's a better detachable connection that anything short of an Anderson connector.
I fail to see how an SAE connector, which is basically just 2 bullet connectors, is so superior to a 1/4" spade terminal. They're both just connectors, in fact the spade terminals i intend on using have a locking tab in the center while SAE connectors just rely on friction fit.
Superduty
Adventurer
I ran 10ga wire from battery to where my fridge is. I then installed an Anderson Power Products SB50 connector. I cut the ARB wire that goes to the fridge plug and installed another SB50 connector. The weak link in the system I suppose is the ARB wire that is molded into the fridge connector. That said, it must be up to the task if that's the way ARB designed it.
If you want to do it the "right" way use some connectors like this: http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...EnglishENG_CS_82021_CPC_sections1-5_0707.pdf (see series 5 which can accept 8 gauge wire), or run your 8 gauge to a terminal block, then 10 gauge with a series 3 connector. Difference is $25 connector vs $0.02 blade.
Either way, probably over engineering it for the load, but always a fun exercise.
Either way, probably over engineering it for the load, but always a fun exercise.
A quality SAE connector has a positive snap fit and holds together indefinitely. It is most certainly not the same as a cheap bullet connector from Autozone. The blade connectors do not ever fit really securely and are very prone to loosening and falling apart due to vibration. The design of the connector almost assures that. Furthermore they are prone to corrosion where the rubber surround of the SAE connector prevents it.
At this point, you're going to do what you want, regardless of the advice given that you asked for. Have fun using junk to rig up your electronics. A year from now when you are fighting voltage issues maybe you'll understand.
If you want to do it the "right" way use some connectors like this: http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Catalog+Section82021_CPC_sections1-50707pdfEnglishENG_CS_82021_CPC_sections1-5_0707.pdf (see series 5 which can accept 8 gauge wire), or run your 8 gauge to a terminal block, then 10 gauge with a series 3 connector. Difference is $25 connector vs $0.02 blade.
Either way, probably over engineering it for the load, but always a fun exercise.
There's a lot of nice connectors out there that i would love to use, but a big part of the install for me is to only mount one box and have all the ports i need. Since i know i want 2 cigarette outlets, the easy solution is to just add a third port that will house the ARB connector. Unfortunately that means i have to connect my 8 gauge wire to 1/4" blade terminals. That beats having to design some sort of custom box system to house my connectors. My whole goal for doing these mods is to make the install look factory.
Bayou Boy, you're absolutely right that i'm going to do what i want with my truck. You gave your advice and it's not what i want to do, so give it up and troll somewhere else.
I like that option, even though i'd have to cut the factory plug off. However, the largest connector they say you can run is the 45 amp, which is a 10 gauge terminal. Same issue with the 1/4" blade connector.
The ARB factory cord is pretty cool. It has a screw on adapter to run with a regular cigarette outlet. If you remove the cigarette outlet you have a 2 prong threaded outlet that fits their proprietary mount. So i could keep the adapter in my transit bag and plug into any standard 12v cigarette outlet if i wanted to. If i hack off the original plug, then it's only going to work in a vehicle with that specific adapter.
