Wiring connections...?

[Flagster]

Are inline (crimp and heat) type wire connectors considered as good as a solder and shrink tubing type connection? My basic wiring skills are being put to the test this weekend...
I was leaning toward the soldering with shrink tubing to waterproof but NAPA was telling me the crimp type connectors are better and faster?
Any thoughts/recommendations?
Thanks
Matt

 

[chasespeed]

Depends. But, in general, for most auto wiring, crimp is better. Easier to fix in on the road, more resistant to vibration, etc. I will use a mixture... it just depends on what i am doing. You really cant go wrong using crimps in anything you will be working with....

Chase

Sent from my HTC Incredible

 

[max adams]

I prefer solder and shrink tube but they should be kept reasonably small because they become brittle. If you have a good set of crimpers I can't see it comming apart, NAPPA would probably give advise without knowing your skill set (easiest) and by selling you a product they have. My favourite torch came with a creme brulee kit and my wife hasen't seen it since I opened it.

 

[Martyn]

Matt, as with everything the crimp connectors are good if they are done correctly.

To make it all work seamlessly you need a good crimping tool and a good set of wire strippers.

The wire needs to be trimmed back so that enough of the wire will be in the crimp zone, and the butt connector needs to be crimped down hard enough to hold the wire securely.

After you crimp the wire into both sides of the butt connector pull on the wires to make sure they are held in place firmly. At that point heat the plastic on the wire connector and shrink it around the fitting. Do not rely on the shrink fit to hold the wire in place, that is done by crimping the wire connection. You are basically crushing the fitting around the wire.

Wire connections come in different sizes depending on what gauge wire you are working on. Make sure you use the correct size fitting. Nothing more unreliable than crimping a larger fitting onto under sized wire.

If you take all of these steps the connection will be as good as a soldered one.

Soldering the connections is very reliable and for some people it's the only way to go. It is slower, but again it needs to be done correctly with un- contaminated fittings and wire. It's old school, very reliable, and time consuming.

 

[Mike S]

I really like the marine style butt connectors that have shrink tube WITH ADHESIVE inside for areas exposed to vibration and moisture. Just strip, crimp, heat and done.

 

[craig333]

Crimp these butt splices for a strong mechanical connection, then use a heat gun to melt the heat shrink and enclosed solder for water resistance and excellent conductivity. All are tin-plated copper with polyolefin insulation. Rated to 600 volts and 221°F. Min. shrink temp is 275°F.

 

[Antichrist]

The only time I use insulated terminals is for field repair. Otherwise I always use uninsulated and use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Using uninsulated lets me also visually inspect the connection after crimping. It also gives a less bulky connection.
I also put a dab of dielectric grease in the terminal for added protection.

x2 on using a quality crimper.
I use these Klein crimpers:
http://tinyurl.com/3ko732f

 

[kjp1969]

Either is fine if you do it properly. Look to the OEM fittings on modern vehicles- they are all crimped, not soldered.

I prefer to solder/shrink, because I can look at the fitting and tell that it is properly connected and solid. I always have a nagging feeling that a crimp may look and feel tight, but could come loose. I've never had a soldered connection fail on me.

That said, for all but small wires, I have to heat them up so much to get the solder to flow that the insulation starts to melt. I'm in the midst of a wiring project myself, and I'm crimping more than soldering. So far, everything is working well.

 

[rusty_tlc]

To qualify my statements I'll preface them with this; I have over 25 years experience in electrical/electronics manufacturing.

When making connections with stranded wire a crimp connection is the only way that is reliable. It is well worth your time to learn to make a proper crimped connection as Martin described.

Here is the readers digest version of why a crimped connection is better;
We use stranded wire because it will bend many times without breaking as a solid wire would. As soon as you solder the strands together you introduce a potential point of failure due to metal fatigue.

Stranded wire is rarely soldered in a high rel applications such as military or space electronics, never in a wiring harness or connector. Way back in the 80's NASA and IPC did a boat load of studies on this which all came to the same conclusion.

 

[Shiryas]

Good article

This link was posted over on Wander the West, some good information about connections and harsh environments.

http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/more_online/electrical_wiring.php

Cheers, Chris

 

[evldave]

What everyone else said...I crimp, then heat shrink, then if it's external, I also wrap the whole thing in about 4 layers of electrical tape from 3-4" on each side of the connection. I do this to (1) slightly reduce the likelihood of water, and (2) slightly reduce the likelihood of it coming apart because I screwed up the crimp.

Probably overkill, but the last thing I want to do is have to repair a bad connection, or worse have it come apart of short causing a fire (not likely since I also fuse the heck out of everything)

 

[kjp1969]

Here is the readers digest version of why a crimped connection is better;
We use stranded wire because it will bend many times without breaking as a solid wire would. As soon as you solder the strands together you introduce a potential point of failure due to metal fatigue.

Stranded wire is rarely soldered in a high rel applications such as military or space electronics, never in a wiring harness or connector. Way back in the 80's NASA and IPC did a boat load of studies on this which all came to the same conclusion.

This all makes sense, but would the same be true for a harness that doesn't see movement? Open up any printed circuit board, and its nothing but soldered joints.

I've been crimping and soldering for 30+ years (I'm 41 years old!), having been taught by my radio engineer dad when I was 8 or 10. Not surprisingly, he swears by soldering, thinks that crimp connectors are devil spawn. I've never had one of my solder joints fail, so I tend to go with "skill first, method second."

 

[rusty_tlc]

This all makes sense, but would the same be true for a harness that doesn't see movement? I've been crimping and soldering for 30+ years (I'm 41 years old!), having been taught by my radio engineer dad when I was 8 or 10. Not surprisingly, he swears by soldering, thinks that crimp connectors are devil spawn.

I've never had one of my solder joints fail, so I tend to go with "skill first, method second."

30 years ago your Dad was correct. Technology changes.

If you must solder learn to make a Western Union Splice. Crimp plus solder is the worst of both worlds IMHO.

 

[Hilldweller]

I use THESE. Easy to modify, repair, change your mind, and won't come apart. More than milspec tough. Zombie-proof.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I use THESE. Easy to modify, repair, change your mind, and won't come apart. More than milspec tough. Zombie-proof.

Crickey almost $0.80 each!:Wow1:

It might be nice to have a few in a repair kit but I don't think I'll be using them routinely anytime soon.