XJ Suspension question for experienced overlanders
- Thread starter shauncondit
- Start date
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
I also followed the herd when I built my 98 XJ. OME (Tiawan) from DPG with JKS discos and JKS short arms. Man that was cool untill I got to using it. Coming from a heavily dependent on suspension sport (Motocross) I felt betrayed. I did research and found out that there was not a single suspension company that had the slightest clue on the most basic aspects of suspension. (Spring rate, compression and damping.) I was blow away by sites like naxtard that did not even yeild basic info on suspension other than height and trimming fenders. I started calling Jeepspeed race teams and got in contact with the Deaver and Bilstein reps that knew XJ's.
Your build is mild and simple and you can slap on any non performing kit you want and will have "lift". Want proof that 99% of the lifted XJ's are built wrong?? Look at pictures of them flex out on the trail. The front is flexed to the max and the rear is not. When flexed the roof line is not paralell to the grond because the uneven spring rate forces the Jeep onto an angle. On vids watch how fast the front blows thru it's suspension travel because it's way too soft. Don't even get me started on short arms so I'll just say that any xj that is not stock needs long arms of your choice. Without them it's not possible to get rid of the jarring and not possible to get the articulation you need for a decient amount of travel out of a low lift. I like Claytons because they are the strongest and once installed you never touch then again. Springs on front you have one choice from negative lift to 5.5". Deaver Jeepspeed coils. Cut them to the height you want with a cutoff wheel. Don't buy any other coil unless you find a Skyjacker 8" coil that youi plan to cut. They are OK. Rear does not matter because you can put in or take out as many of your stock leafs to get them right as you need. I use DPG OME 2.5" springs but they now have 8 leafs. I'd try the Jeepspeed Deaver spring pac for the rear if you have the coin but if not build a pack that gives you the height and bottoming resistance you need to cycle your suspension from an OME pack. Don't cut your u bolts yet and keep leafs handy. 30 minuts to swap leafs in or out if you don't unbolt the main spring. Use a JKS rear shackle.
I don't have the numbers for the shocks but the cheapest one you want is the Bilstein 5150 for the rear in that 255/? valveing. You can use the same for the front but you should step up the price range and go the next valving higher on the 7100's. Take all this to the bank if you want to load down an XJ and drive it in all conditions. It's not that much more expensive to go from just a lift to a performance suspension system that works extreamly well. It's also worth it just to watch Rubicon owners struggle on sections you just eased thru and to have some piece of mind that your rig can handle a 75mph hiway manuver. Spend some time and good luck with your build!
Your build is mild and simple and you can slap on any non performing kit you want and will have "lift". Want proof that 99% of the lifted XJ's are built wrong?? Look at pictures of them flex out on the trail. The front is flexed to the max and the rear is not. When flexed the roof line is not paralell to the grond because the uneven spring rate forces the Jeep onto an angle. On vids watch how fast the front blows thru it's suspension travel because it's way too soft. Don't even get me started on short arms so I'll just say that any xj that is not stock needs long arms of your choice. Without them it's not possible to get rid of the jarring and not possible to get the articulation you need for a decient amount of travel out of a low lift. I like Claytons because they are the strongest and once installed you never touch then again. Springs on front you have one choice from negative lift to 5.5". Deaver Jeepspeed coils. Cut them to the height you want with a cutoff wheel. Don't buy any other coil unless you find a Skyjacker 8" coil that youi plan to cut. They are OK. Rear does not matter because you can put in or take out as many of your stock leafs to get them right as you need. I use DPG OME 2.5" springs but they now have 8 leafs. I'd try the Jeepspeed Deaver spring pac for the rear if you have the coin but if not build a pack that gives you the height and bottoming resistance you need to cycle your suspension from an OME pack. Don't cut your u bolts yet and keep leafs handy. 30 minuts to swap leafs in or out if you don't unbolt the main spring. Use a JKS rear shackle.
I don't have the numbers for the shocks but the cheapest one you want is the Bilstein 5150 for the rear in that 255/? valveing. You can use the same for the front but you should step up the price range and go the next valving higher on the 7100's. Take all this to the bank if you want to load down an XJ and drive it in all conditions. It's not that much more expensive to go from just a lift to a performance suspension system that works extreamly well. It's also worth it just to watch Rubicon owners struggle on sections you just eased thru and to have some piece of mind that your rig can handle a 75mph hiway manuver. Spend some time and good luck with your build!
cshontz
Supporting Sponsor
I highly recommend a fixed-yoke conversion with any amount of lift. Driveline vibrations may or may not be perceived with such a minimal ride height increase. However, this modification will help preserve driving-comfort, and minimize wear-and-tear by keeping your geometry in the green.
shauncondit
New member
Ok, well, good news on the financial homefront. I can up my budget to the $1200 range which gives me some better options. Suspension only...ill tackle under the hood and driveline separately I have an older 242, so hack n tap with a front driveshaft
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shauncondit
New member
I'll be giving DPG a call in a week or so to talk to him about a ome/jks kit vs his 4" re hybrid kit. Thanks for all the input! Gave me lots to think about.
shauncondit
New member
Well, I guess I have until Monday to decide....DPG was only open till noon today, so I missed him for this week. I guess I'll be spending a lot more than I originally intended but this way I'll be getting pretty much everything, suspension wise, in one shot. Staying around 4" or so.
I've narrowed it down to:
http://dpgoffroad.com/products/44-5-inch-super-ultimate-xj-old-man-emu-hybrid-kit/
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=3506
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...e=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X4LK&Category_Code=XLK
I haven't seen ANY xj's with the Currie kit, so I've seen no reviews and the IRO kit would be ordered with full leaf packs, JKS discos and SS brake hoses
The big daddy DPG OME/JKS kit is full of top quality stuff.....I know Currie is top notch but how does it ride and does it flex well for a short arm?
Damn decisions!
I've narrowed it down to:
http://dpgoffroad.com/products/44-5-inch-super-ultimate-xj-old-man-emu-hybrid-kit/
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=3506
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...e=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X4LK&Category_Code=XLK
I haven't seen ANY xj's with the Currie kit, so I've seen no reviews and the IRO kit would be ordered with full leaf packs, JKS discos and SS brake hoses
The big daddy DPG OME/JKS kit is full of top quality stuff.....I know Currie is top notch but how does it ride and does it flex well for a short arm?
Damn decisions!
Logans91XJ
Dirt Road Anthem
I personally think JKS Arms are overprices for what they are. If I ever upgrade my suspension I am going to just piece mine together. Dirk is really nice but he will do his best to keep your lift to a minimum
LawnDart-XJ
Observer
I have RE 3.5 superflex coils and full rear packs with the Clayton long arm kit and OME sport charger shocks. Rides great flexes awsome when the sway bar is in disco mode. 31 x 10.50 (siped). Hauls lots of camping gear.
BIGdaddy
Expedition Leader
I have pretty much the exact same truck as you, Shaun, aside from the NP242 (i've got a NP231). I've run a bastard pack rear and spacer lift up front for about a year and a half now. 2" overall. It was mostly to get some ride height back and fix the saggin stock suspension. I carry 5 passengers, tons of gear, and tow a small camp trailer that has a tongue weight of around 2-300lbs.
Total cost was less than a hundred dollars, and would have been more if I had decided to replace the shocks. Honestly I haven't found anything on the trail that has stopped forward progress that a higher lift would have solved.
Locker(s) = yes.
Better tires = maybe
But clearance wise, and tire-size wise, I haven't needed anything more.
With that np242, if you go much lift at all you're going to NEED a Slip-yoke eliminator, and I think the only option you have is to go with a hack-n-tap type setup. This is a fairly major modification requiring a new (or rebuilt used) rear driveshaft, aside from the hack n tap kit. I think there's a vendor selling both the tailshaft kit, AND the rebuilt front Cherokee driveshaft for a couple hundred bucks.
Honestly I LOVE the fact that I still run stock parts @ 2". I LIKE my truck the way it is, and LIKE the fact that a mechanic will see nothing but a stock driveline if I'm out in BFE and need assistance. (Though I've done all my own work so far.)
Some love to change all that up and have a custom truck just to have a custom truck, but having read so many build-ups that end up as trucks that eat parts whenever they go off-highway, I'm just not convinced.
That's just me though.
Total cost was less than a hundred dollars, and would have been more if I had decided to replace the shocks. Honestly I haven't found anything on the trail that has stopped forward progress that a higher lift would have solved.
Locker(s) = yes.
Better tires = maybe
But clearance wise, and tire-size wise, I haven't needed anything more.
With that np242, if you go much lift at all you're going to NEED a Slip-yoke eliminator, and I think the only option you have is to go with a hack-n-tap type setup. This is a fairly major modification requiring a new (or rebuilt used) rear driveshaft, aside from the hack n tap kit. I think there's a vendor selling both the tailshaft kit, AND the rebuilt front Cherokee driveshaft for a couple hundred bucks.
Honestly I LOVE the fact that I still run stock parts @ 2". I LIKE my truck the way it is, and LIKE the fact that a mechanic will see nothing but a stock driveline if I'm out in BFE and need assistance. (Though I've done all my own work so far.)
Some love to change all that up and have a custom truck just to have a custom truck, but having read so many build-ups that end up as trucks that eat parts whenever they go off-highway, I'm just not convinced.
That's just me though.
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BIGdaddy
Expedition Leader
Older XJ's have tcases with shorter tailshafts. Newer ones ,especially with the 8.25 rear have the steepest angles as the pinion yoke is longer than the d35.
So, in order of least likely to most likely to need an SYE with a 2-3" lift.
1984-1996 xj with d35 (longest driveshaft length)
1984-1996 with 8.25 (driveshaft about an inch or so shorter)
1996-2001 with d35 (driveshaft about 3-4 inches shorter)
1996-2001 with 8.25 (driveshaft about 4-5 inches shorter)
I'm not sure if having an np231 vs. a np242 makes a difference in tailshaft length, though I do know that the tailshafts are not interchangable, and as such, would lead me to believe there is a difference.
So, Chris, no disagreeing with you, just saying that certain setups require it, and certain ones don't. I have not had any issues @ 2" with my rig. When I swap to an 8.25 axle, I may in fact, need to do a bit of tuning or go to a SYE, but then again, I've only moved one step closer to the "very likely" category, as I listed it above, as mine's a 92 with a short tailshaft.
DesertXJ
Observer
I have some experience in this topic! Having had a few XJ's, I would recommend a 3" lift and 31's. Put in a set of selectable lockers or tru-tracs and you will be all set.
This is my 98 Classic with 31's on the Rough Country 3'" kit, with AAL.
Tires clear fine, ride is a bit rough, components seam ok for the $$$.
This is my old 01 XJ with a RE 3.5 kit, full rear spring and 31" Duratrac's with OME shocks.
Ride was great on road and off. Definitely would go this route again if I was building again and the budget allowed!
The RC for the $$ is hard to beat, but I don't know how it will hold up over time and abuse, the Red XJ was good to us, took us everywhere we wanted to go with no issues, except the RE disco's aren't the greatest.
Man I love the look of the red one!
I'm looking at redoing my worn out procomp lift on my jeep (was on there when I bought the XJ) so I think you've sold me on the RE kit. I do have a couple of questions for you
1, Did you use the super ride or super flex kit?
2, Did you use the stock shackles and if so how was the ride?
3, Is there anything you would do different, if you were to do it over?
I'm looking for a good ride and off road manners, I'm not a rock crawler but you never know where you might end up while exploring the desert.
njjeepthing
Explorer
1)I bought the super flex, but ended up using the stock arms up front, the RE ones introduced a ton of vibrations.
2) Yup stock shackles, no issues on ride quality.
3) Add a Long Arm upgrade up front.
DesertXJ
Observer
so with the use of stock arms you basically have a super ride kit! and it rides real well
thanks for the answers to my questions its a tuff decision when you're looking at a good ride with good off road manners