XJ's, what to look for....??

[JWP58]

And what to run away from? I'm currently shopping around for a cheap DD/Hunting/Mild Expo (come on, hunting out west can be a serious expedition) and an XJ has crossed my mind. I'm primarily a Toyota guy, but around here people think they are plated in gold (either that or they think rust is gold) and XJ's seem to be fairly inexpensive for what you get.

I've found a very clean 95' 5spd tan/tan Jeep Cherokee w/ 160,000 miles on it. Personally I cant see spending more than 3400 on it since its stock (appears to be an elderly persons vehicle). What would you guys pay for it? (body is straight, no dings, no rust) I haven't inquired about service records (i.e. clutch, water pump, ect).


Also, how many miles are these things usually good for? From what I understand the 4.0L I6 is a good engine, and the weak point is the trans (why I want a 5sp). Can these vehicles tow a trailer? ( a small utility trailer, nothing overly heavy)


Sorry for newb questions, I know Toyotas....not Jeeps.....but I'm willing to learn!

 

[96XJ11C]

Looks like you may have a solid XJ in your sights. The manual trans is a big +. If you can keep up with rust, and prevent it, there is not much that will kill a XJ. Look for rust in the front floorboards and in the rockers. It seems the norm for a cherokee to hit 240XXX miles before the motor is burning oil/hurting. I have heard of them hitting 300K+ with very good maintenance. Also, check what rear diff it has as the D35 is not very strong if you plan on running over 31-33" tires. (the chrysler 8.25 is the preferred diff.) The cooling system is another big reason of concern on the cherokee. No obvious signs the cooling system has been neglected besides the color of the coolant.? See if you can test drive it and do what you can to see if it ever gets hot. (summed up, cooling system and rust are the main things that can kill a manual trans cherokee) if anyone else has any other info please chime in!!

 

[JWP58]

How do I tell the rear axles apart? Does the Chrysler 8.25 have a flat bottom??

 

[BIGdaddy]

Yes, it does.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Aw4 auto trannys are fine. Ax15 manual trannies are good too. Very much a preference thing.

4.0l motors are bulletproof. Keep them full of oil and they'll just keep going.

A 1995 might have the 27 spline rather than the later stronger 29 spline 8.25Cryco. Both are stronger than the d35.

A normal 4x8 ute trailer or a adventure trailer/ m416 style trailer are no problem for these rigs.

I've had very good luck with a 2" lift, 30" tires, rear sway bar delete and front sway bar disco's. Very comfy, stable and very, very capable for the $$ invested. Have a plan before you start modding. These trucks are very well balenced stock and parts failures are prevalent when modifications get out of hand.

 

[JWP58]

I wont ever be going over 2-3" of lift or 31's. I don't want to rock crawl, I just need a capable 4wd for BLM/Forest service roads. More important to me is reliability, due to going out in the middle of nowhere.

In all honesty, a decent set of AT tires and maybe a locker is probably all I'll ever need..

 

[cdn_xj]

Read THIS

 

[wgyouree]

Sounds like a solid rig. I still miss my Cherokee. I'd mirror what the other posters have said. Cooling system is the only real issue I had with my Cherokee and it's pretty common. It's simple to fix yourself though. If possible, look for cruddy colored coolant and junk in the reservoir (I think the '95 has an open system). When you test drive it, get it up to speed on the highway for awhile. If you get one and it overheats on you, start small and work your way up. Check that the electric fan is working, test/replace the thermostat, check the fan clutch, and lastly look at the water pump. A radiator flush would be a good idea anyway and add some Water Wetter. FYI, the 4.0L has a timing *chain* and not a rubber timing belt. It's rated for 300K miles. That's one of the reasons this motor lasts so long. Treat it right and it'll last a long time.

They're small and nimble, lightweight, exceptional ground clearance for a stock rig on small tires, and can carry four people and a fair amount of cargo. I'd say go for it!

 

[Verbalkint99]

Check to be sure all the switches work on each door (door locks, windows) as they tend to be issues, and poke around the floor pans...I went through 10+ XJs when looking for my current one and each one had rusted out floor boards. But then again, I am right in the middle of the rust belt!

 

[deniz merdano]

All very solid advice.
Pretty good plan to keep it between 2-3" lift with 31" tires.
Ours on 180.000kms just did a solo 15000km trip through the States. On-offroad, 800lbs of cargo. Besides the minor overheating in real tough environment (death valley, 45C (110F))
18-20mpg average off interstate 55-65mph
10-12mpg average offroad-low range
Check the Transfer Case to see if its a NP231(fulltime 4x4) orNP242(fulltime-parttime 4x4)
We preferred to added traction of fulltime 4x4 on loose/wet roads without having to lock the axles.

Also be prepared to change the O2 and a few other sensors right off the bat if they haven't been documented.

 

[Rubicon John]

1996 is a good year, as well as 1998-01. The 4.0L six with an AW-4 is a solid setup that will get you 300K as long as the body holds up.

 

[jarmentrout]

Note that the NP231 is a regular part time tcase not full time as stated. My 97 was great, had the up-country off road package, the best part of that is the very good skid plates. Mine also had factory tinted windows, 242 tcase, overhead console, and roof rack rails that extended all the way to the windshield. I added a trac-lock pocket locker to the d35 and it worked great. Should not have sold it. Was totaled a few weeks later.



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[Stumpalump]

I'm not sure where you heard XJ auto transmissions were weak but that's wrong. They last forever. Find a 97 or newer auto if you can. The unibody was improved a lot.

 

[jarmentrout]

Agree with above. The 97 or newer had an much updated interior, unibody structure, metal rear hatch (rather than fiberglass) and a the AW4 auto trans was great.


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[96XJ11C]

The AW4 is tough but i dont recommend it for several reasons. #1 Fluid cooler built into the radiator, taking an already marginal system..... and making it worse. #2 when an auto trans stops working, IT STOPS WORKING, a broken manual trans can almost always get you home with enough ingenuity. #3 Bumpstart. #4 AX-15 takes motor oil if you wish to use it (one less fluid to carry to the trail) #5. NSS. #6 Who doesnt like to row through the gears? Yes a AW4 is tough and reliable but no there are few practicality/reliability reasons to have it over the AX-15. To each their own