YOLANDA...My Turbine Princess build 03 7.3 E350 pop top 4x4

[wanderer-rrorc]

Do you happen to know the brand of your poly liner wall panels? Adrian Steel maybe?

I can look next time the liner comes out next time...driver side panel has to come out for electrical outlets and foil bubble gets installed on that side..

What are thoses seats out of?
Have you ever had the prior project, where you used the roofing barrier, start to smell like asphalt when it got hot?

2000 windstar...and no the last project never did smell like that...the insulation layer and carpet above it pretty well sealed it in...and this one has very similar plan..


My son and I took her out today for a ride...with the deadener and foam in the doors....its probably only 25% as loud as it was before...so AMAZING!!!

I still have more insulation in the driver wall...and padding backed carpet...also the roof is bare metal right now...the topper will have 1in foam board inside..Im anticipating cutting the interitor sound by 50% from current levels....as of right now there is ZERO engine noise in the front area...the exhaust sounds that were coming from the passenger front floor are totally GONE...even the noise from the mid seats is barely perceptable..the rear area noise is mostly wind and road...but its such a large open area without seats and other objects it acts like an empty warehouse...so the seat foam and carpet should zero it out!!!

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

Merry Christmas to me Merry Christmas to me I'm in so much trouble I bought a Dana 60!!!!



And she is fat and heavy I didn't realize the radius arms are going to be three and a half feet long it barely fits in my six and a half foot deep bed!!!!

It DOES have the radius arms..it doesn't have brakes calipers or steering arms...all spins SMOOTH...but the difference between these 2 kits make it a no brainer to swap the unit bearings to brand new!

$350 steering balljoints and unit bearings and seals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X7MHHQ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=ISD3YMO3H1TQW&colid=2EHDM251RP9R1&psc=0

$284 OE calipers drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic brakes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ES3D4O8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3PZ3B6S135RKW&colid=2EHDM251RP9R1&psc=0

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[wanderer-rrorc]

Well I got the 60 painted with an industrial spray very similar to POR15...and work was throwing it out...hello painted van frame!!

Im doing some searching across here on EXPO and thru some of the vendors Ive used in the past....

Yolanda doesn't have power windows OR door locks..the back doors have security key locks that are UBER secure (spring load double cut keys and reinforced lock cylinders)
so I dont wanna really change those...but they ARE NOT on the regular Ford key...its a security key...and its not something the kiddos will be able to turn and pull the doors...but the van doesn't have the actuators for door locks...and OEM stuff is pricy..junk yard stuff is ignorant to buy with how its installed usually mangling the old one getting it out.

also I would LOVE a remote start and remote unlock...that leads me to aftermarket kits...Ive ordered quite a bit from this company over the years so why not see what they have...

full alarm kit, actuators for all 4 doors..ignition disable..lighted interior and egress lighting (probably be the 360* roof lights..that should be fun in a parking lot!!!! )and a free channel...(hmmmmm.....windows?? Fantastic Fan?? cappuccino maker?? who knows!!!)

Now Yes...there are a few cheaper kits...this company even sells them...HOWEVER the LONG RANGE TRANSMITTER HAS AN ISSUE....I installed a remote start on the F150 and it had the long range transmitter...which WAS COOL!!!!...untill I was constantly called by guys in the groundskeeping department that my TRUCK WAS RUNNING....and I had been across campus all day....and I would often ride by and find it running...I eventually made a metal guard for the FOB to keep me from hitting the freaking button...THIS SYSTEM has the 2 way remote...it will tell me the engine runtime left (both for warmup and Turbo Cool Down Timer) also the internal temperature of the van so if its getting too warm I can hit the AUX button and crack a window or turn on the Fantastic Fan in the roof vent...

and Best Buy usually installs them for $150...(they did my wifes VW rabbit that are NOTORIOUS HORRORS TO DO and my F150 in 6 hours on the same day!!! that dude was KICK ***!!!)

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...Power-Lock-Kit.html?nosto=productpage-nosto-1


and poking around looking at things on the Pork chop express build (Ive joked about calling this the Pork chop express as we foster mini-pigs and Im ususaly the transport for Vet and Foster stuff...).....and he mentioned just swaping out the window regulators for power ones...so I go looking...some INTERESTING choices out there for sure!!

this one uses the factory hand cranks and puts a worm gear driven outer ring over the handle....



so I start looking at OEM stuff...its not bad...then I get the idea maybe just put power window motors on the exisiting assembly...head to ROCKAUTO.com and start poking around...

OEM power window regulators are $45 each....thats a BIG no brainer!!!

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...erior,window+regulator+&+motor+assembly,15596


so about $400 for power windows-doors an alarm, a turbo timer, egress lighting switch and to know if my DAMN VAN IS SITTING BURNING FUEL WHILE IM NOT IN IT...yea...thats a no-brainer...

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

I dont think I ever posted the goal up!!

Im gonna do a low profile roof rack...similar color to the green sportsmobile..rear tire carrier and box that will contain all the cooking supplies and grill..along with campfire gear...and hold the hi-lift and shovels...Max-Trax will get mounted on the driver side or roof....and the driver side will have a ladder...

ALSO there will be a front and rear removable sunroof to allow us daylight and starlight along with a way to get out onto the roof rack from inside for fun!!

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

Well the rear web seats are a no-go...my big ness sags them too far down to be useful....guess its hard plywood and foam....and a redesign of them too...GROAN


I did manage to get the garage cleaned up a bit today and a buddy came over to help move the 60 and check out the new shop lights..

60 all sprayed with rust converter paint

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[wanderer-rrorc]

Got some pics of the front axle cleaned up a bit...and the read factory dana 60....with,3.29 gears....GROAN....

I guess ill jump the 3.73 front axle to 4.10 and bump the rear as well....dang...

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[RVflyfish]

so I start looking at OEM stuff...its not bad...then I get the idea maybe just put power window motors on the exisiting assembly...head to ROCKAUTO.com and start poking around...

OEM power window regulators are $45 each....thats a BIG no brainer!!!

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...erior,window+regulator+&+motor+assembly,15596
View attachment 427762

Please show us how you do this. I have a '99 7.3 and I've heard all sorts of conflicting info on how hard it is to make manual windows power.

PS The last pic is just blank gray for me.

 

[RVflyfish]

I dont think I ever posted the goal up!!

Im gonna do a low profile roof rack...similar color to the green sportsmobile..

Does anyone know what color green that is? Is it a stock color?

How bout this sort of pewter beige?

 

[Mwilliamshs]

A divorced transfer case will dramatically decrease your fuel tank capacity.

The manual to power window conversion you linked does not use worm gears.

Is the heat gun in the pictures of the sound deadener used to install it?

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

I know the Van is Hugo and I can find it on instagram and photos but cannot find the color...they had it sprayed...


I think the beige is factory ford tan...

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

A divorced transfer case will dramatically decrease your fuel tank capacity.

The manual to power window conversion you linked does not use worm gears.

Is the heat gun in the pictures of the sound deadener used to install it?

Yea but I can put a rear tank in it...not sure what my plan of action is gonna be on the T-case yet...keeping my eyes out for a 4r100 with t-case from a truck...probably the most cost effective answer to this...


Im gonna use the factory power window setup.....its the easiest to do and gonna last the longest I think..

the only reason I used the heat gun was because the temperature was below 40* and it wasnt quite sticky enough due to temp...

 

[RVflyfish]

Thanks for the color info.

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

What are your plans for the pop top? Custom build? Or are you taking it to one of the conversion shops?

Custom build..but they are basic designs...I'm doing a lower top that looks more stock...GTRV does some very nice garagable tops!! I'm designing mine similar with some other tricks to be light and strong...actually picking up materials tomorrow didn't get to the shop in time today to pick them up!

WELL I SCREWED UP!!! do NOT cut the spin bases down more than 2.5 in...I had a HELL night...the latch for seat unlock was in the way...the support bar in the back of the base hit the swivel so bad more than 25% had to get cut out...the aux brackets for seatbelts had to get chopped off...and the damn seat base now drags the floor....GROAN..

cut the driver seat base 2 1/2 in...dropped in..5 min...perfect...

that SUCKED....might buy another base just to do it right....

but the seating position is PERFECT now!!!

I can get it so low its gangsta...or I can get it so tall I get pinned by the steering wheel at the highest tilt.

ALSO snagged my 42in D5 LED bar off the truck...the stock factory head lights are SO BAD even the high beams look like low compared to my new truck...

I also have nailed down the design for the dual benches that will turn into a fullsize lower bed...

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

Picked up all the roof metal today!! Tracks and channel are getting welded this week!! Gonna have them get me a 5ftx10ft sheet of steel...the 4x10 isn't wide enough (they forgot to order the 5x10)

Hole in roof just after Christmas day!!!

Total metal for roof will be around $250...including unistrut runners for future roof rack!!

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[Corneilius]

Liking the progress. I would seriously reconsider the divorced case and a rear tank. Besides keeping all those ujoints happy, and relocating your fuel tank, the Front Driveshaft will likely hit the tranny crossmember and will require a serious rework. I know that with a welder all things are possible but often times the juice isn't worth the squeeze. Additionally, mounting and plumbing the rear tank is easy, filling it is hard. You choices are inside the van, inside the wheel well, or cut the body. All have their drawbacks.

You've got your work cut out, I wouldn't reinvent the wheel with the 4wd conversion. If you get a 4r100 from a truck, get the Tcase from the same truck. Some had VSS's in the tail housing, some in the TCase. Im running a truck tranny and it works great.