antonmies
New member
That's so true and thanks!
ZIL 131H 6x6
- Thread starter antonmies
- Start date
That's so true and thanks!
D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
Man, I keep looking at your pics and thinking to my self... "Mt Tundra needs about 6-8PSI of awesomeness forded into it".
Wyowanderer
Explorer
Great project, I'm green with envy.
it's great to meet folks like you who fix stuff like this rather than send it to the boneyard.
it's great to meet folks like you who fix stuff like this rather than send it to the boneyard.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Yep. Most people don't realize lightly boosting a gasoline engine actually reduces the mechanical stresses on the engine internals.
Antonmies: are you making pipes that run from the original downpipe outlets, and routing it back up front and top of the engine bay where the turbo is mounted?
antonmies
New member
Yes I am. Not the ideal solution, but functional in this case.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Yow, turbolag. Probably shouldn't be too bad though, if you have a small turbo on that big engine.
D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
It also increases the volumetric efficiency of the motor, thus increasing gas mileage.
Wyowanderer
Explorer
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I typed a big thing but deleted it, it gets fairly complicated. To try to sum it up:
Most people assume that the largest forces in the engine are due to gas forces. This isn't the case. Inertial forces of accelerating the piston up and down are typically larger than the gas forces. The inertial forces oscillate between stretching the connecting rod at TDC, and compressing it at BDC, which is really hard on the rod. The gas forces actually counter the stretching force of the rod at TDC of the power stroke, completely removing one stress-cycle which is a good thing. And the gas forces under boost typically do not stress the rod more than that caused by the deceleration of the piston at BDC anyway.
In fact, the worst thing you can do for your rods is to rev the engine to redline with no load.
Furthermore, by using boost to achieve HP required instead of RPM's, the peak inertial stresses on the engine are reduced. The inertial stresses on the engine rise with the... I can't remember if it's the cube or the 4th power of the engine rpm.
For example, my Focus engine was naturally aspirated from the factory, making 130hp and redlined at 6750 rpm. With the turbo, I'm making 250hp with the same economy car connecting rods, but I actually REDUCED the redline from 6750 to 6500 rpm, making life a little easier on the engine. This is how it has survived so many trackdays. By contrast, those connectings rods would NEVER hold up to the 8000rpm required to make 250hp without the turbo.
All of this assumes you are avoiding detonation. Detonation hammers the connecting rod and piston, and can fracture either instantaneously if it's bad enough.
Most people assume that the largest forces in the engine are due to gas forces. This isn't the case. Inertial forces of accelerating the piston up and down are typically larger than the gas forces. The inertial forces oscillate between stretching the connecting rod at TDC, and compressing it at BDC, which is really hard on the rod. The gas forces actually counter the stretching force of the rod at TDC of the power stroke, completely removing one stress-cycle which is a good thing. And the gas forces under boost typically do not stress the rod more than that caused by the deceleration of the piston at BDC anyway.
In fact, the worst thing you can do for your rods is to rev the engine to redline with no load.
Furthermore, by using boost to achieve HP required instead of RPM's, the peak inertial stresses on the engine are reduced. The inertial stresses on the engine rise with the... I can't remember if it's the cube or the 4th power of the engine rpm.
For example, my Focus engine was naturally aspirated from the factory, making 130hp and redlined at 6750 rpm. With the turbo, I'm making 250hp with the same economy car connecting rods, but I actually REDUCED the redline from 6750 to 6500 rpm, making life a little easier on the engine. This is how it has survived so many trackdays. By contrast, those connectings rods would NEVER hold up to the 8000rpm required to make 250hp without the turbo.
All of this assumes you are avoiding detonation. Detonation hammers the connecting rod and piston, and can fracture either instantaneously if it's bad enough.
antonmies
New member
This is the outcome of pipes, angle grinder, nervous breakdowns and electric glue.
Our user forum voted that there should be an external wastegate, so I made a place for it.
It's in such angled position because I wanted the wastegate control hoses as far from the t/housing without the need of putting 90° angle right after the wastegate.
Our user forum voted that there should be an external wastegate, so I made a place for it.
It's in such angled position because I wanted the wastegate control hoses as far from the t/housing without the need of putting 90° angle right after the wastegate.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Must be nice to have that much room under the hood! I have 1/2" to my engine block, and 1" to the plastic radiator fan!
Wyowanderer
Explorer
Thanks Rob. I had no idea.
antonmies
New member
I finally received the trigger wheel from the laser cutter and instantaneously took it and the the distributor to my machinist, gave him brief instructions and at the next day I collected it and it was perfect as his work usually is.
I then spoiled the work as I drilled and tapped the original hole where the coil charger wire was. I remembered the sensors thread pitch incorrectly and tapped the hole with a M12x1,25mm tap, and of course with out checking it first. Obviously the sensor has a M12x1,0mm thread and because of that, a gigantic ******** appeared in my forehead...
Today I got to a hardware store and got myself a correct tap and thought I could try 'fixing' the threads already knowing it wouldn't work and obviously it didn't. So now I must weld the hole shut and re-drill and tap with correct thread. I will also mill some material away from the outside of the original wire fitting boss to make a better place for the locking nut. At the original state, the boss is too high and I would have to install the locking nut inside the 'trigger housing' (formerly known as distributor, haha).
Then I made the oil return where the fuel pump used to be and gave the exhaust tubes some heat paint. Motip in the two pipes and VHT in the collector as I ran out of Motip. I must say that there will be no more Motip as VHT covers the surface with much less paint!
I then spoiled the work as I drilled and tapped the original hole where the coil charger wire was. I remembered the sensors thread pitch incorrectly and tapped the hole with a M12x1,25mm tap, and of course with out checking it first. Obviously the sensor has a M12x1,0mm thread and because of that, a gigantic ******** appeared in my forehead...
Today I got to a hardware store and got myself a correct tap and thought I could try 'fixing' the threads already knowing it wouldn't work and obviously it didn't. So now I must weld the hole shut and re-drill and tap with correct thread. I will also mill some material away from the outside of the original wire fitting boss to make a better place for the locking nut. At the original state, the boss is too high and I would have to install the locking nut inside the 'trigger housing' (formerly known as distributor, haha).
Then I made the oil return where the fuel pump used to be and gave the exhaust tubes some heat paint. Motip in the two pipes and VHT in the collector as I ran out of Motip. I must say that there will be no more Motip as VHT covers the surface with much less paint!
antonmies
New member
Haha, you are right! If my wife throws me out, there would still be enought space under the bonnet for me to live in
1" is plenty and 1/2" is enough :costumed-smiley-007