ZIL 131H 6x6

antonmies

New member
Didn't yet weld the trigger housing as I didn't feel like it. But I managed to make some kind of down pipe. I'll have to make a small adjustment as there is now way too big gap in the seam of last elbow because I thought I cut the pipe straight :oops:

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The clutch linkage might of caused an interference problem, but luckily I tested it and I had to turn the pipe that passes it a bit just in case the welding causes some small warping in the wrong direction.
 

antonmies

New member
I managed to do something. Finally. I attached the Volvo flange attachment type idle valve to the TPI throttle body as the original was stuck and didn't want to buy a new solenoid for it. It would of been easier and 'cheaper' :)

I milled the surfaces so I don't need to put any gaskets between the throttle, manifold and IAC. Just a hint of Loctite 510.

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antonmies

New member
Today I made the oil feed for turbo, assembled the oil filter (red goo is RedLine assembly lube) and trigger shaft to the housing. Then I installed the intake manifold, oil filter and distributor/trigger stuff to the engine.

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Mamontof

Explorer
I drive that truck when i was at a army , eat gas like hell :Wow1:but but some hay when water cover a ruff and engine completely in water ( snorkel extend by Flooting hose finish with futboll boll (easy to find a truck if stock under a water later ) that Soviet era build machine can handle any type of clay or mud .
Other for Finland condition off road will be GaZ-66 [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fom2SX8WFv8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fom2SX8WFv8[/ame]

http://www.tanksforsale.co.uk/Gaz66_truck_for_sale.htm
 

antonmies

New member
Yeah, My friend had one a couple of years ago



Anyway, too much time has passed, again!!
However, I managed to make some time to start with the IC and charge pipes. I modified a water/air IC by turning the other tank around as it would of been practically impossible to make it fit with the inlet/outlet facing the same direction.
I welded some flat bars to both ends and the IC is now mounted with some rubber bushings. With the IC in place, I saw that the distance between the compressor and IC inlet silicone was so small that I decided to make the first part of the charge piping by welding it directly to the c/housing. That way I managed to avoid two possible leak spots :cool:
Sorry about the pics :?

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I guess I'll be making a heat shield that installs to the DP to minimize the heat load to the IC. I'm also wondering getting the pipework powder coated. But we'll see if I find that "necessary".
 

antonmies

New member
Coil brackets and 034motorsport coils.

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Started to modify the tanks for internal transfer pump:
I used a plasma cutter to remove the old pickup flange and then tack welded the new flange and then used tin as seal.

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Then I started (and finished) making the bracket for ECU, fuse box and relays. It will be mounted in the former glove compartment.

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antonmies

New member
Thank you guys :)

Yeah, I think putting effort into the electrics pays itself back with trouble free operation, and even if there would be some problem in the future, it would be easier to track down and repair...

I've seen too many customer rides with big HP motors etc but the electrics just thrown in as "they just need to be there". Sometimes the outcome is that the summer goes, winter comes and the ride has been driven only some 100km during the whole summer. It's truely a shame!
Earlier today one guy bought me a pair of the 034 coils I'm using in this ZIL and told that he had burned a couple (I wonder how, I really do!) I asked about the installation and it turned out that 6pcs pcs of coils each max rated with 20A were fed by one 2,5mm² (some 13 gauge) wire! The guy had some ignition problems that spark energy wasn't enough and with his power level, the problem wasn't really about the coils...

Anyway, glad you like this!
 

antonmies

New member
A lot has happened since the last update! The engine bay is now pretty much done, so is the modification of the other fuel tank. Also EMS wire loom is in place and all of the electrics are now generally done.

It was quite hard to get such cable that would handle submersible installation in gasoline. Luckily I mentioned that to my friend and he brought me some PTFE wiring and got the thing done and now the mind is peaceful :lol:

I had to grind some material away from the thermostat housing to make more space for the fuel hose that connects the rails in the front. Didn't want any scrubbing to happen.

It also seems that it's autumn again as it has been raining a lot and had to dig a very insufficient shelter :?

Some Pics:

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antonmies

New member
I installed an E-Vac Scavenger kit in the DP, cleaned the threads of the O2 bung and scavenger bung as well and wrapped the whole thing with heat insulation. Then I made the exhaust pipe and put a cat converter in it, because this is a GREEN ZIL :lol:

Then the electric system. I made the wire loom so that all sensor and ignition wiring is covered with tinned copper braid and earthed from the ECU end to reduce any interferences. Aand because all of the essential wiring was braided in the first place, I thought I didn't want to do it with inferior shielding than the original :D


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DP with some heat insulation.

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Jerry Exhaust

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Pull switches for coils and injectors for that original look. It's a shame I didn't manage to get them with longer knobs :lol:

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Fuel tank ready for installation

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Connector for the position sensor with the braid connected over to take the shield as long as possible to reduce any interferences to the signal. Might be an overkill for a HALL sensor...

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AMP Junior Timer internals with wire seals

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Here is the finished wire loom. Looks like Predators hair... Overall, it took about fifteen hours to complete the wiring

I made the coil wires separately because if it would be necessary to replace a coil in some dark forest the replacement would be easier due to the extra length in each fire rather than having them in single loom and everything cut to length. Maybe an overkill too, but did it because I could :lol:

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antonmies

New member
Thanks man!

As we went through the systems checks everything looked OK until we started to crank the engine to see the signal from position sensor. And there was none and the ecu didn't accept the 8-1 trigger wheel running cam speed. After checking that that really was the case it wasn't supported, I decided to 'edit' the original one. Some mods were needed inside the ecu to be able to use the HALL sensor. After everything, the beautiful sight of a perfect triggering signal in the laptop screen!!


Something Russian:
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Official inspector:
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Then to the fuel system. We turned the pump on and there were some major leakages that were fixed by modding the other fuel rail just a bit (one injector didn't sit properly) and replaced one hose from that temporary fuel setup we had to make due to postal delay with the right stuff.

And now. IT'S ALIVE!!!

After the first start we checked the timing with a timing lamp and seems there is a bit of scattering due the slack in the distributor gear, but this was expected. It was pretty hard to see the timing pointer, because someone installed a turbo in the way...

With the first start, injector setting was wrong and the engine was "running" with some 4 cylinders.

After making some changes the running turned better even though the 'lottokone' (=Lottery machine) gave output only for three channels (the ones we made) and the original output didn't fire the coils. But that's why there is many cylinders so that all don't need to run :lol:

I must say that I feel great after seeing my creation alive and the only smoke was from the breather and exhaust pipe.
There is still some things to do, such as the final fuel system, modding the other tank and making the coolant circulation for the water/air IC. And of course the removable sauna on top :D

1st run:


2nd run:


And the third:
 
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