Tow strap vs. Kinetic rope

[Master-Pull]

Hi Alex,

It's not any flaw in the Kinetic strap that causes this type of accident. It's that there are truly titanic forces applied through the strap, far more than those generated by a winch or a steady pull from another truck. (It's why they are so effective, of course). There have been cases of recovery-points being ripped out, bolts breaking, rear cross-members flying off etc. It's the hardware attached to the strap that does the damage. I have seen pics of a Nato hitch that's flown though the windscreen, headrest, and upper tailgate of a RRC, when the rusted bolts holding it to the towing vehicle broke. Not the KERR's fault, it's the fault of the bad recovery points. But the KERR makes any hardware failure much more dangerous. If something's going to break, it's safest if it's the KERR itself!

I understand what you are saying, but their is a difference between a snatch strap, our Super Yankers, and a 3 strand 'bungee' type rope. A snatch strap will never stretch as much as our ropes, the great thing about our Super Yankers is they don't snap back or cause a jerk when you are using them properly. In the videos I posted I had my head out the window looking backward, during the entire recovery there was never enough of a jerk to move my head back and cause it to hit the B pillar. We personally have never had a problem with a Super Yanker ripping a hitch off, I am not saying it wont ever happen though. Just like every other piece of equipment on an off-road vehicle kinetic energy recovery ropes can be dangerous if used improperly, if you use them properly they will work great and not cause any issues. But if you are overloading your recovery points, using inferior or rusted hardware you run the risk of endangering yourself and everyone around you. It doesn't matter if you are pulling with a winch, kinetic energy recovery rope or strap, the recovery points must be well built and strong enough to handle the load of the recovery.

-Alex

 

[R_Lefebvre]

x 2.

It's a very easy method of freeing a stuck vehicle, but it's inherently dangerous. You can certainly mitigate the dangers by using the Kinetic Rope carefully and properly, but you can't escape the fact that it stores such a vast amount of energy.

I'm not saying never do it!

I agree, I'm pretty leery of using them. However as I've mentioned before, they seem to be the #1 item guys I've been out with want to use. They'll always want to snatch before they winch.

I have used them, but I'm pretty cautious about it. I give light tugs, increasing in force, but I'd NEVER do anything like in that Master Pull video. Maybe I'm a chicken, but so be it.

The winch is already paid for, might as well use it.

The thing with snatch straps is that the action is so fast, there's no time to do react if something goes wrong. I know winch cables can break suddenly as well. But sometimes you might have a chance, you might hear something pop and be able to stop. If the stuck rig does something unintended (starts to roll over), you can stop. etc. I also think that a broken mounting point will be a whole lot less lethal if being pulled on with a winch, vs. a massive yank like that video.

 

[Chas Stricker]

Howdy All,
I used a 6" Keeper brand strap the weekend again without damage. I've pulled out a wrecker, 1 ton ford pulling a 5th wheel, large motorhome and the truck this weekend off a cliff. Even the bigger 6" has enough give not to snap or jerk the vehicles but still ridged enough not to slinky. I used a lot lighter one with my cruisers and Suburban but always use one first. They work for me,
Chas

 

[Master-Pull]

I agree, I'm pretty leery of using them. However as I've mentioned before, they seem to be the #1 item guys I've been out with want to use. They'll always want to snatch before they winch.

I have used them, but I'm pretty cautious about it. I give light tugs, increasing in force, but I'd NEVER do anything like in that Master Pull video. Maybe I'm a chicken, but so be it.

The winch is already paid for, might as well use it.

The thing with snatch straps is that the action is so fast, there's no time to do react if something goes wrong. I know winch cables can break suddenly as well. But sometimes you might have a chance, you might hear something pop and be able to stop. If the stuck rig does something unintended (starts to roll over), you can stop. etc. I also think that a broken mounting point will be a whole lot less lethal if being pulled on with a winch, vs. a massive yank like that video.

Honestly before I used a kinetic rope I was a little uncertain of them as well, but I am a firm believer in them now and as long as my bumpers are attached with quality hardware I will continue to use them. When a wire winch cable snaps it can possibly propel itself with enough force to punch through a windshield and harm someone. A synthetic winch rope will fall to the ground if it breaks, and can be re-spliced if this happens.

-Alex

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I'm well aware of the risk of wire rope, but I still prefer that to the risks of a heavy kinetic snatch. The thing is, I know the strength of my own bumpers, but I don't know the strength of other people's bumpers.

Another aspect maybe worth discussing is buying a snatch strap appropriately sized for the vehicles they will be used on. I have used my 20,000lbs strap to recover rally cars, and they just don't stretch enough to work properly. I'll be getting a lighter snatch strap for next time.

 

[Scott Brady]

Pick the correct tool for the job. Very few 4wd enthusiasts are familiar with the materials used to construct the various straps and their proper application. There are even recovery kit companies who sell straps constructed from the incorrect material (i.e. a Tree Strap constructed from Nylon).

Recovery Strap: Nylon with 11-30% stretch depending on the manufacture, method of construction and load. Lower stretch allows for more precise vehicle-to-vehicle recovery in tight terrain, rocks, etc. Not as effective in sand and mud.

Recovery/Kinetic Rope: 25-35% stretch depending on the manufacture and load. Maximum stretch and kinetic recovery assistance. Greatest damping effect. Harder to control in precise recovery scenarios.

Tow Strap: Nominal Stretch, typically with a means of retaining tension (to keep the strap from dragging on the ground). Black Rat has a nice example which has a polyester webbing containing a HD elastic cord in the middle. Reinforced eyes. Not used for vehicle-to-vehicle recovery of a stuck vehicle, only for towing to the nearest accessible point for a proper tow vehicle.

Winch Extension: Polyester or Dyneema with nominal stretch. Other materials possible, but the primary function is to extend a winching operation, so a dynamic/kinetic recovery rope should never be used. Unfortunately, there is a well-known DVD that demonstrates a kinetic recovery rope used to extend a winching operation. Never introduce a kinetic connection point into a winching operation (think sling-shot).

1. Never buy the cheap straps with the cast hooks on the ends.
2. Buy a recovery strap/rope appropriate to your vehicles GVWR. A strap too heavily rated for your vehicle will not stretch as designed. A strap rated 3-4x GVWR is a good range and provides sufficient safety factor to the minimum breaking strength.
3. Safety is always paramount, as is understanding proper rigging. Get some training and practice.
4. If your vehicle is fitted with a winch, assess if a proper winch recovery would not be a more controlled and safe alternative to a kinetic recovery.

 

[muskyman]

people do dumb things all the time, I have seen many pics of a major national instructor using a strap to a highlift for a highlift winching demonstration.

in that video posted by master pull the length and the amount of stretch in the kinetic strap with a big incline off the other side of the road is a catotrophic accident waiting to happen.

also when using a kinetic strap you are trying to just break the stuck truck loose.

If you watch the video once he breaks the cherokee loose the cherokee slids into the inclined ditch and he continues to keep pulling. This is a real bad idea, this is when a wheel grabs the steering wheel twists hard in the drivers hands and now the direction of the truck is hard to control or predict.

It is better to use the right amount of energy to unstick the stuck truck and then let them drive the rest of the way. Worst case is they get stuck again and you need to give them another or a series of small controlled pulls until they are unstuck. yanking them loose and then towing them backwards often creates a precarious situation where they have less then complete control.

control is the key when it comes to recovery.

 

[emmodg]

x2 Thom!

With all due respect to the "Masterpull Guy" - that is one of the scariest recoveries I have seen! Also, why was there someone with a camera that close to a recovery, and why would a man(Masterpull Guy) stick his head out of the window and look backwards while he is driving forwards to effect a recovery? What do you do for Masterpull and do they know you're representing their product in a public forum?

Next time, use a spotter. Don't be sticking your head out of the window only to catch a shackle to the face! I bet you could have just towed him out without immediately going to a dynamic pull. Use an "escalation of force" when it comes to a recovery: go from something as innocuous as maybe lowering tire pressure or using floor mats for a tractive surface, if that doesn't work try a nice slow static tow with a strap, if that doesn't work then maybe a dynamic "snatch", if that doesn't work then the winch, if that doesn't work, (or you have no winch), and you know how to use one properly us a HiLift as a winch. Why go right for the "nuclear option"?

(Give us a hint Thom: What instructor are you talking about?)

 

[muskyman]

well its better that I dont name names as I wouldent want to be acused of personal attacks

but corporations are not people so have a look at this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xldBPnzohtI

this is from high-lift. Look at the tiny little strap they are using in this video.

This is just stupid! the amount of elongation and stored kinetic energy into that strap just makes the process more dangerous and much slower because I would bet half the cycle length of the highlift will go into stretching the strap as aposed to moving the intended truck. the way they are rigged the strap needs to stretch until it reaches a point that stretching the strap takes more force then moving the truck.

If that is all you have to work with well thats life but for a instructional video designed to hallmark your product you really should be showing best practice and potential problems.

 

[Scott Brady]

.
the amount of elongation and stored kinetic energy into that strap just makes the process more dangerous and much slower because I would bet half the cycle length of the highlift will go into stretching the strap as aposed to moving the intended truck.

Exactly. Use a synthetic winch line extension (preferable) and/or a proper grade of chain for Hi-lift winching. Remember to dampen the line with a sail.

 

[Bennyhana]

That little yellow strap in the Hi lift video is just a small tree saver strap. It comes with the Hi-lift winch kit. It is marked with a red line indicating it is not a recovery strap.

 

[Scott Brady]

That little yellow strap in the Hi lift video is just a small tree saver strap. It comes with the Hi-lift winch kit. It is marked with a red line indicating it is not a recovery strap.

A tree strap would be appropriate. It should by polyester, and with nominal stretch.

Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[emmodg]

I bet I know who you're talking about Thom...

(It's not what you know that makes one an instructor these days. It's where you've been.)

 

[Mike_rupp]

Scott, I don't mean to be a stickler, but isn't nominal a poor choice of word? Wouldn't minimal be a better word to describe a very small amount of stretch?

 

[Scott Brady]

Mike,

It very well may be. I am not an english major, and am thankful for the great editors that work with us.

Nominal as an adjective is defined as: insignificantly small (i.e. the fee was nominal)

That was my intent with the use of the word. To say that the amount of stretch was insignificant and is not designed with stretch as a function of use.

Minimal however, works well too and is more common in use - defined as:
The smallest possible amount, quantity, or degree

Thanks for the feedback.