Point Five Ambo Build
- Thread starter patoz
- Start date
RiderBloke
Observer
Yeah, it is unfortunately. Florida is a big state. Merry Christmas.
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patoz
Expedition Leader
Merry Christmas Pat. Try not to soak up all the sun.
Thanks Tom,
It was 77° here today and I finally gave in and kicked the A/C back on about noon time!
screwball48
Explorer
Patoz check out the Rebel Off Road Isuzu NPR build in the Japanese heavy truck section. They used a set of entry steps very similar to what you are looking for.
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patoz
Expedition Leader
It took me a little bit, but I found it here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...4x4-Beast!-Rebelzilla-by-Rebel-Off-Road/page7
Yep, that's what I need, but a smaller version with about three steps. Since I only need a short one, I may try to build it myself. I can't weld aluminum, but it could probably be put together with stainless hardware.
Thanks for the heads up!
patoz
Expedition Leader
Due to some health issues, not much has been happening on my build. There have been some small things going on, like planning and acquiring parts, etc. but not much worth writing about.
Today the weather was very nice and I felt pretty good, so I decided to do some wire tracing and identification. One of the delays on getting it registered as a RV/Camper Trailer and a tag on it has been the installation and operation of all of the DOT required safety lighting for a trailer of that size. My plan is to relocate and replace the old taillight assemblies with newer LED versions.
Old ones that were all corroded up inside...
New LED ones from Bargman. Since this picture was taken, I have replaced the incandescent backup light and reflector with a newer clear LED backup light module and I'll add a separate reflector somewhere on each side.
I also plan to move them up to the spot where the old amber turn signals were, since there is already a big hole there and the Bargman's require and even larger hole to mount in. This will help protect them from getting kicked when standing on the bumper, keep them out of any deep water (hopefully), and allow them to be seen when using any kind of rack or cargo basket on the rear. I will also have to add lower side marker lights, but I'll discuss that later.
One of the problems I've run into is the wiring to the existing lights. I had hoped Wheeled Coach just extended the Ford factory wiring and connected it to the lights mounted on the patient module (the box), but that didn't happen. I have traced all of the wiring from the rear all the way up to where I cut it loose from the cab when I removed it. Nowhere did I find anyplace where any of the wiring broke out of the harness in the frame and went up into the module. I first tried tracing each individual wire using a Power Probe III and some of the wires went through and some didn't. Then I tried applying 12V power to ground and to the individual wires at the front, and got some of the lights to work and some didn't. There is also a small black module sitting between the frame rails at the rear just in front of the backup alarm, which is tied into the light wiring also, or so it appears. It's hard to tell since everything is black and covered in diesel soot. It also very hard to get to.
I suspect this module may be one of those converters that adapt an independent bulb taillight system of the towed vehicle to the common bulb system of the trailer. In the case of my ambulance it would have converted the wiring of the Ford van to the taillights of the ambulance module. Or, I may be completely off base on this.
Now, to make matters worse, today while looking at my electrical panel I found three relays and wiring marked, 'Marker Lights', 'Left Turn', and 'Right Turn', but no brake or backup lights, at least not yet.
So...since everything I am installing are LEDs, I'm starting to think it may be easier for me to just create a new wiring harness and go directly from the 7-pin junction box to the lights themselves. With my set up, this is no different than wiring a large box trailer and there is no need to have any of this wiring go through the electrical panel.
Has anyone else run into anything like this on their rigs?
Today the weather was very nice and I felt pretty good, so I decided to do some wire tracing and identification. One of the delays on getting it registered as a RV/Camper Trailer and a tag on it has been the installation and operation of all of the DOT required safety lighting for a trailer of that size. My plan is to relocate and replace the old taillight assemblies with newer LED versions.
Old ones that were all corroded up inside...
New LED ones from Bargman. Since this picture was taken, I have replaced the incandescent backup light and reflector with a newer clear LED backup light module and I'll add a separate reflector somewhere on each side.
I also plan to move them up to the spot where the old amber turn signals were, since there is already a big hole there and the Bargman's require and even larger hole to mount in. This will help protect them from getting kicked when standing on the bumper, keep them out of any deep water (hopefully), and allow them to be seen when using any kind of rack or cargo basket on the rear. I will also have to add lower side marker lights, but I'll discuss that later.
One of the problems I've run into is the wiring to the existing lights. I had hoped Wheeled Coach just extended the Ford factory wiring and connected it to the lights mounted on the patient module (the box), but that didn't happen. I have traced all of the wiring from the rear all the way up to where I cut it loose from the cab when I removed it. Nowhere did I find anyplace where any of the wiring broke out of the harness in the frame and went up into the module. I first tried tracing each individual wire using a Power Probe III and some of the wires went through and some didn't. Then I tried applying 12V power to ground and to the individual wires at the front, and got some of the lights to work and some didn't. There is also a small black module sitting between the frame rails at the rear just in front of the backup alarm, which is tied into the light wiring also, or so it appears. It's hard to tell since everything is black and covered in diesel soot. It also very hard to get to.
I suspect this module may be one of those converters that adapt an independent bulb taillight system of the towed vehicle to the common bulb system of the trailer. In the case of my ambulance it would have converted the wiring of the Ford van to the taillights of the ambulance module. Or, I may be completely off base on this.
Now, to make matters worse, today while looking at my electrical panel I found three relays and wiring marked, 'Marker Lights', 'Left Turn', and 'Right Turn', but no brake or backup lights, at least not yet.
So...since everything I am installing are LEDs, I'm starting to think it may be easier for me to just create a new wiring harness and go directly from the 7-pin junction box to the lights themselves. With my set up, this is no different than wiring a large box trailer and there is no need to have any of this wiring go through the electrical panel.
Has anyone else run into anything like this on their rigs?
Last edited:
zuke
Adventurer
D.O.A. is a similar setup, the brake lights still run from the original wiring, While the turn signals were separate and run through the module cabinet.
I think I'd just go with a whole new harness for the tail lights, and if you can locate the clearance light wiring, reuse that and tie it into a new harness.. Your truck is a two wire system though, and .5 is going to be a three wire system. So I think you're going to have to treat it as if you were towing another vehicle, (Tow Bar setup) which is going to require some diodes;
I think I'd just go with a whole new harness for the tail lights, and if you can locate the clearance light wiring, reuse that and tie it into a new harness.. Your truck is a two wire system though, and .5 is going to be a three wire system. So I think you're going to have to treat it as if you were towing another vehicle, (Tow Bar setup) which is going to require some diodes;
patoz
Expedition Leader
I'm assuming when you say...
...you are referring to the separate turn signals on .5, right?
It looks to me like Wheeled Coach used the two relays to convert the E350's wiring system to match the ambulance's separate turn signal system. Now days, we would just use a simple solid state converter available at any auto parts store.
The disadvantage to trying to use the old existing relay system is, it requires battery power from the ambo/trailer itself. I would prefer to have a completely separate trailer light system, that is independent of the electrical system for the trailer. At some point I may decide to move up to a full ambulance vehicle, and sell what I have now. If that happens, I would probably keep most of the camper type add-on items and sell it as a utility type trailer, and I would want all the running lights to function normally.
My F250 has the factory 7-wire hook-up system, and I already have it wired via a pigtail back to a junction box on the trailer tongue, so running a new harness forward to this box would be fairly easy.
I think my next move is to drop all that wiring and the modules in the very rear, and open it all up so I have access to the wiring. I was hoping to avoid that, but if there is any hope of using any of the existing wiring I have to be able trace it out. Since I didn't gut mine, the walls are all closed and a lot of the wiring is run inside and inaccessible also.
Thanks for the diagram and I'll add that one to my collection, but I don't think that will help in my situation.
...you are referring to the separate turn signals on .5, right?
It looks to me like Wheeled Coach used the two relays to convert the E350's wiring system to match the ambulance's separate turn signal system. Now days, we would just use a simple solid state converter available at any auto parts store.
The disadvantage to trying to use the old existing relay system is, it requires battery power from the ambo/trailer itself. I would prefer to have a completely separate trailer light system, that is independent of the electrical system for the trailer. At some point I may decide to move up to a full ambulance vehicle, and sell what I have now. If that happens, I would probably keep most of the camper type add-on items and sell it as a utility type trailer, and I would want all the running lights to function normally.
My F250 has the factory 7-wire hook-up system, and I already have it wired via a pigtail back to a junction box on the trailer tongue, so running a new harness forward to this box would be fairly easy.
I think my next move is to drop all that wiring and the modules in the very rear, and open it all up so I have access to the wiring. I was hoping to avoid that, but if there is any hope of using any of the existing wiring I have to be able trace it out. Since I didn't gut mine, the walls are all closed and a lot of the wiring is run inside and inaccessible also.
Thanks for the diagram and I'll add that one to my collection, but I don't think that will help in my situation.
zuke
Adventurer
Yup. I'm referring to the separate bulbs on .5. There aren't a lot of solid state devices for running the separate signals/brake lights like on .5, I found one, and again it's for a towed vehicle, not a trailer. the seven pin connector you have now is designed for a common bulb system, (Two wire), So you will have isolation problems if you just try and wire the signals you have to the 7 wire connector, voltage will 'Feed back' through the brake light when you hit the turn signals if you don't have diodes.
I believe you'll need something like this kit to make it work;
http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/etrailer/154-792-118158.html
And I didn't find anything that said that kit could work with LEDs...
I believe you'll need something like this kit to make it work;
http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/etrailer/154-792-118158.html
And I didn't find anything that said that kit could work with LEDs...
patoz
Expedition Leader
I have a splitting headache and can't really concentrate on this right now, but it looks like that would do it for sure. However, all of the old van controls and most of the wiring is already gone, so there is nothing for the diodes to connect to on that end.
I understand what you are saying about the voltage feeding back through the brake light when I activate the truck's turn signals. I still think I remember seeing a converter specifically for that purpose, but I just have to go check.
If all else fails, I can just use a set of taillights that use a common turn and brake light bulb/LED, and be done with it.
Thanks for your research, which helps a lot...
I understand what you are saying about the voltage feeding back through the brake light when I activate the truck's turn signals. I still think I remember seeing a converter specifically for that purpose, but I just have to go check.
If all else fails, I can just use a set of taillights that use a common turn and brake light bulb/LED, and be done with it.
Thanks for your research, which helps a lot...
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Mate I suggest you just get a set of Little Giant steps and rework them to suit. They are a little spendy but nothing compared to trying to make your own. The best part is that the handle folds down and they are just 3 steps. Mine mount inside the door and I just put them out when needed. Missus thinks they are about the best modification we have made.
Link to steps
Also on your tail lights. Maybe I am missing something but doesn't the standard 7 pin from a ford run the indicators separate to brake lights. The conversion for all the trailers I have had over here is done at the tow vehicle. And is just for the 4 pin setup. So why don't you just run a new 7 core straight to the back of the rig and wire it in. Preferable with a descent double insulated cable instead of the flat ribbon and corrugated tube that most trailers have. Like this stuff
I ran into this a few years ago mounting trailer lights on a temporary bumper, due to the OEM refrigerated box being removed. The issue stemmed from vehicle wiring that did not match up with the wiring in the trailer lights.
The Upgraded Heavy Duty Modulite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness # 119190KIT may solve your problem.
Check out https://www.etrailer.com/p-119190KIT.html
This kit uses a powered converter with circuit protection to safeguard your vehicle and the module. It also includes everything necessary to hardwire it to your vehicle. Be sure to use the included tester to make sure you have the correct wires before splicing. The colors on the trailer harness are as follows below.
Green = right turn
Brown = tail lights
Red = brake light
Yellow = left turn
White = ground
Black = 12 volt battery lead
The Upgraded Heavy Duty Modulite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness # 119190KIT may solve your problem.
Check out https://www.etrailer.com/p-119190KIT.html
This kit uses a powered converter with circuit protection to safeguard your vehicle and the module. It also includes everything necessary to hardwire it to your vehicle. Be sure to use the included tester to make sure you have the correct wires before splicing. The colors on the trailer harness are as follows below.
Green = right turn
Brown = tail lights
Red = brake light
Yellow = left turn
White = ground
Black = 12 volt battery lead