40 Guy builds a 100 Series

[Rezarf <><]

Next up, I had to remount my ScanGauge II as it was blocking the factory warning lights when it was mounted on top of the steering wheel. When I had an igniter go out I couldn't see the idiot light on the dash, nor can I see the 4x4 light etc. I decided to move it up and onto a RAM Mount suction cup. I picked up about 4 of these mounts at a local sporting goods store that is going out of business for less than $5 bucks a piece. If you haven't tried a RAM Mount, you're missing out, they are rock solid.

First I pulled the OBD2 cable up through the dash and between the A-Pillar trim and the dash. The neon yellow wire is my fishing line to yank on to pull the cable through.

I used the same stuff I did to mount my HAM Radio to the ash tray (which is holding amazingly BTW) it is 3M Dual Lock. It is really good stuff and for what it is worth the old mount on top of the steering wheel was mounted using this stuff and it pulled away clean with no damage or residue left behind. It's about $4 for 6 square inches but its amazing stuff and I'll keep using it for these kinds of applications.

Here is where I applied the Dual Lock...

Simple and clean, this is roughly the view from the drivers seat.

I love how the dual ball and sockets give you nearly infinite adjustments and I can tuck the unit really close to the dash and A-Pillar and still not touch either. The suction cups I have used from RAM in the past have never let go, they clamp down tight and won't rattle off even off road.

 

[Rezarf <><]

Next, I installed a set of LED license plate lights I picked up on Amazon. They are designated for motorcycle plate lights but they fit perfectly in my Slee bumper. I wired them in at the 4 Pin trailer plug.

I'll add a glob of silicone to the back of the housing bolts, but it was too cold today to get the silicone to setup correctly. I'll wait for a warmer day. I used some shrink wrap and nylon braided loom to finish them off, I ran both leads to the truck to minimize them both going down at the same time.

Gotta' adjust them a bit but it wasn't dark enought to aim them when I finished them up.

 

[Rezarf <><]

While I was playing with wires I decided to bump up the factory body/battery ground wire. Do I think 1 gauge cable is overkill... why yes I do. Go big or go home. I had this wire left over from another project as it was cut to short for that application. It can't hurt anything to have a big chubby high current ground anyway... so on it goes.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I decided a while ago I wanted to add an under hood light. Land Cruisers are notoriously reliable, but I do find that a lot of the time I get to work on mine is after the kids go down for bed, not only that but after rolling 300k I expect to deal with a few more maintenance issues as things wear out and need fixing or replacing. I found this LED light strip for boats at the same sporting goods store going out of business where I bought the RAM Mounts. They were cheap enough and looked to be of high quality so I bought two strips, one for under the hood and another for the rear hatch so when it is opened I can have light over the tailgate if desired.

Mounting it up was easy, clean the paint with alcohol, stick it on with the provided 3M adhesive strip and screw in the two end caps. I messed around one evening deciding where to mount it, this lip behind the front hood seal was perfect in its angle and width.

This was the easy part, sticking it into place and dropping the wires behind the hood liner.

I used the end caps that connect to the end of the track, drilled a tiny hold and screwed the end caps down. I wanted these mechanical fasteners as I am unsure how the adhesive will do with under hood temps in the summer crawling on a trail. I like the reassurance that they have to tear out two screws before it can drop itself into the fan and grenade the radiator... oh crap, what have I done.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I searched and found an adjustable hood pin switch for this application on Amazon. I picked up this little guy and it is simple but well made. It works by disconnecting the ground wire when pressure is applied (hood closed) and it connects via a spring loaded wire tab when the hood is opened allowing the circuit to complete. Simple but effective.

I had to fab up a quick little bracket to mount it to the fender, after searching the entire engine bay, there wasn't a good spot for this using an existing tapped hole. Two new holes were needed to mount this where and how I wanted.

I choose to mount mine close to the body ground using nutserts. Again, these work like rivets but give you a hole with a thread on a blind surface. I painted the raw metal and popped them in.

In this shot you can see how the wire attaches to the base of the plunger. When the plunger is depressed it disengages from the main body of the unit opening the circuit. Once released (open hood) the plunger rises allowing the tab on the bottom to connect the circuit.

I wrapped up the wire in nylon braided loom and followed my HAM radio wire run through the fender and then followed the washer fluid hose up to the hood where I tucked it in behind the hood liner to make the connection.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I decided to just crimp these and use a waterproof/heat shrink butt connector. It was simple and my soldering iron was having a tough time combating the cold and flow the solder into the wire.

Here is a cheap trick to keep wires from rattling. I use small pieces of pipe insulation to wrap bundles of wire as they're easy to cut, and won't hold water, this tucked behind the hood liner should eliminate all rattles from this connection beating on the hood.

Here is the finished project and a few night shots. As you can see I need to pin back the hood liner a bit in a few spots as it is robbing some of the light now that it is sagging in a few spots. However, the amount of even bright white light under the entrire engine bay is impressive. This light, along side a head lamp should really increase my ability to see what I am doing under the hood of the cruiser in the dark.

iPotato phone pics no filter, no image modification.

It's like an angle lives near my hood latch now :bounce:

 

[Rezarf <><]

Dual Batteries: Almost done

So one of three big projects I want to do this winter is dual batteries and the associated flexibility of adding a fuse panel for auxiliary electrical items like my fridge, HAM, sub amp, lights and stuff. But as I was poking around I found some rust forming underneath the battery tray. Nothing too serious yet, but my 40 has taught me rust doesn't sleep. So, while I was in there I went ahead and started to clean it up.

To get both batteries to fit in the factory location, I had to remove the factory battery J-bolt hold down bracket. I fabbed an uber high tech spark arrester out of a Christmas box. I like cardboard since it is easy to shape, and it burns before other things most of the time letting me know when to back off. It is great to use around painted surfaces as it smokes before the paint does... usually. Here I have marked my cut lines to get this part of the base level for a wider battery tray.

A few quick cuts with a cut off wheel and we are good to go. I modified my spark arrester to handle the grinding sparks and to allow some wiggle room for the grinding disk head.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I cranked on the rust with a wire wheel, cleaned it up, and shot it with some rubberized under-coat. I have had good luck with this stuff in the past and it adds another layer of protection between the batteries and the sheet metal.

I was pleased to see it setup so well over night here with the sub freezing temps. I got it on while it was warm out around 55-60* and hit it a few times with a heat gun to help flash it, it was nice and rubbery but solid this morning. I am pleased with the results for the time invested.

 

[SnoViking]

Which blue sea battery system are you using? This one?

I'm researching putting a second battery into my GX 460. The engine compartment configuration is similar and I'm looking for all the help I can get.

 

[Rezarf <><]

Which blue sea battery system are you using? This one?

I'm researching putting a second battery into my GX 460. The engine compartment configuration is similar and I'm looking for all the help I can get.

The one you linked will work just fine. It's dead simple. The one linked below is what I am going to use. It's just got a few more features that I like, one it has a manual over ride to the magnetic latch automatic charge relay (ML-ACR) two, it has an in cab switch for isolating or combining the batteries. All of which your linked version will do but you have to throw the switch, I prefer an automated system. Fwiw, I have found the auto system on eBay for much cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VIXLRO/ref=twister_B01LEHLINK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Rezarf <><]

The Hella Optilux H4 bulbs were a disappointment. I LOVED the color, an actual non-blue, non-yellow color (around 5000k) but they barely lit up the road, which is kinda important for the headlights

After some research here I decided to run the Halogen Infra Red (HIR) 9011 bulbs in the low beam spot. It should roughly double the OEM light output. Time will tell if they are the right choice for me... next stop is likely a cheaper HID drop in kit even with the known issues they create.

65W bulbs. If you don't know you want to make sure you don't grab the glass with your fingers or the oils on your fingers can shorten the bulb life. If you don't have a big honking battery this is a 5 minute swap.

 

[ExplorerTom]

The suction cups I have used from RAM in the past have never let go, they clamp down tight and won't rattle off even off road.

My RAM mount actually has fallen off. Never when offroading or on some wash board though. Once on the highway. And once while parked somewhere- I came back and my iPad was on the floor. I've since added surface mounts right to my dash. It's more of a permanent type of solution and does scar up the dash, but it's a much more rigid connection and now I don't have to worry about it falling off. Plus I can use my sunshade.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I found a little alcohol and a warm day seems to be the thing to lock them down. If I try to mount one on a cold windshield they don't stick as well.

 

[EDR]

This is a great build. I love all of the little pieces that you have done. That engine bay light is slick.

How are you liking the new Phillips HIR bulbs? I need to figure out something for mine and like what these have to offer

 

[Rezarf <><]

For the price they are a no brainer. I notice a lot more light, the color is perfect IMHO around 5000k so real white, not blue nor yellow. I went for the high beams in the low position due to the bulb cap that eliminates glare for oncoming drivers. I am satisfied.