AmboLander

[FDM2012]

Trans Cooler Update:

So, I got my cooler on earlier in the week, but didn't really like that the inline temp switch was located
between the radiator and the cooler.
Instead, I ordered and installed a different one into a Tee along with the temp sensor, at the port on the
tranny. This way, I know/hope that it kicks on when the fluid at that port actually reaches 180, instead
of after the radiator having dropped it 10+ degrees, thus meaning the trans would already be at 190-195.
When actuated at 180, it is supposed to open back up at 165 to shut the fan backoff.

With the cooler mounted where it is, I still haven't seen it get above 180 to even kick the fan on. Which is
what I was hoping for. The top half of the cooler still gets draft from the engine fan, and it also has direct
exposure to forced air while driving.
With the ambient temp in the 90's, the trans temp drops from 160-170 while I am driving on city streets,
to 150-165 on the highway, according to my gauge.
I still need to get the wires tied off and situated, but I am quite pleased with this setup, and it is pretty much
exactly was I was attempting to achieve. My thinking all along, is that while this tranny is supposedly designed
to optimally run at 175 degrees, I would prefer it to be on the cool-ish side, rather than on the hot-ish side of 175.
I would think that hotter temps will do more longevity damage to the fluid and components, than 10-15 degrees
on the cool side.

I know everyone say to just run the 6.0 cooler, and that they never see their fluid get above the 200 range, but I don't
even want mine to be that hot. My tranny has 175k on it, to the best of my knowledge, and I was to see it last as long
as possible.

Does this seem logical to anyone?

Buehler?

And, while I am so far) one of the lucky one, as far as not having any A/C issues yet, I like that the condenser
is less restricted. It would be hard to notice, but it might be a slight efficiency improvement.

I suppose with enough in town stop n' go driving, I could get it to +180, (and I probably should to test it..)
but it isn't exactly the vehicle I will be doing extended inner city trips in.

I also added a 1/2'' Magnefine inline filter that I ordered off of Amazon.

And yes, the cooler fan is on a relay and a dash switch (Auto/Off/On). Ground actuated from the temp switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XONUB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DP7E1Z0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Bikersmurf]

Lookin good. That white rag support bracket looks very familiar after having mine pulled to be welded up after the body cross member broke into three pieces.

I've just had a lot of work done on the A/C and see the value in not blocking the condenser. I need to replace the clutch fan next because it isn't pulling enough air through the condenser to cool it off and prevent over pressurizing the A/C. It has been turning into a money pit as of late... I'm hoping to be getting to the end of repairs soon... not much left undone. I've got about 200k miles on the truck but I know it isn't the first transmission.

 

[FDM2012]

Yeah, I've seen that you have been going through some issues. Part of the game, I reckon......
No one said it would be easy or cheap, did they? That's what I keep telling myself, anyways!! lol

 

[Bikersmurf]

Even with this last round of bills, I've only got about 5k into it. Overall I'm doing very well... Especially given the suspension & brakes are new on all corners. New water pump, alternator, A/C compressor, 4 of 6 tires, rebuilt fuel bowl, etc.

It's a 7.3 and it has a remanufactured Trans from Ford. Body has no rust... Frame just needs some prep and paint and then it'll be about done.

 

[RiderBloke]

Bikersmurf, do you intend to pull any sort of trailer with yours?
Do you know what weights the F450 Ambo can handle on a hitch and pulling?
Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone somewhere on the face of the earth using Tapatalk

 

[Bikersmurf]

No time soon,

Ambulance package rigs don't have a rated tow capacity. E350 van has a rated capacity of 20,000 for the Van and Trailer. Given mine weighs 8500 lbs empty, that'd leave about 10k for a trailer. Given it has a dually axle, with 4.11 gears, I'd say it'd tow the hitch rating up to the 10,000 lbs.

I've not looked a any F series... But I'd think an F450 would be rated higher than an E350. The vans also seem to be somewhat detuned in comparison to the Truck bodied rigs. It would also be dependent on engine and axle Ratios.

Basic rule of thumb is up to half the tow rig's weight without brakes and 10% of the trailer weight should be on the tongue. This'd give me 4200 lbs and about 400 lbs on the tongue (without brakes or an equalizer hitch), I expect that'll be more than I'd likely tow. Given I've had 600 lbs of cargo in it for an extended period of time (with only 1.5 spring packs in the back) without even noticing it, I think up to 600 lbs tongue weight would be no sweat. If I was towing, I'd upgrade to a 6.0 diesel Trans cooler from the tiny one 7.3s came stock with. I can't see towing even 4k... but time will tell. some day I may want to tow a trailer with my 4500 lb Fj40 on it... that'd hit 6500 lbs easily.

 

[RiderBloke]

No time soon,

Ambulance package rigs don't have a rated tow capacity. E350 van has a rated capacity of 20,000 for the Van and Trailer. Given mine weighs 8500 lbs empty, that'd leave about 10k for a trailer. Given it has a dually axle, with 4.11 gears, I'd say it'd tow the hitch rating up to the 10,000 lbs.

I've not looked a any F series... But I'd think an F450 would be rated higher than an E350. The vans also seem to be somewhat detuned in comparison to the Truck bodied rigs. It would also be dependent on engine and axle Ratios.

Basic rule of thumb is up to half the tow rig's weight without brakes and 10% of the trailer weight should be on the tongue. This'd give me 4200 lbs and about 400 lbs on the tongue (without brakes or an equalizer hitch), I expect that'll be more than I'd likely tow. Given I've had 600 lbs of cargo in it for an extended period of time (with only 1.5 spring packs in the back) without even noticing it, I think up to 600 lbs tongue weight would be no sweat. If I was towing, I'd upgrade to a 6.0 diesel Trans cooler from the tiny one 7.3s came stock with.

Thanks. I am leaning towards Freightliner or International as I figure they will have more weight capacity. The Duramax powered ambos are harder to work out the capacities but I figure they are similar to the 450s. Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone somewhere on the face of the earth using Tapatalk

 

[Bikersmurf]

No worries... I'd start by looking at the capacities for similar non-ambo rigs... about all you've got to work with since Ambos aren't rated to tow at all.

 

[patoz]

No worries... I'd start by looking at the capacities for similar non-ambo rigs... about all you've got to work with since Ambos aren't rated to tow at all.

I would look at similar type and sized U-Haul, etc. type vehicles. Most of them are set up to pull a trailer, and even though they won't be as heavy as an ambulance of the same size, they are rated to carry a huge load of cargo, so I would think that would offset the difference.

 

[RiderBloke]

Thanks fellas. I appreciate the helpful info.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Gtdad]

@Ross and Kara,

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


On the mechanisms in my McCoy Miller box, I had to use a disc grinder to cut and shape the cams as depicted by the red line in the picture.

View attachment 356187

For the interior door lock levers to still work, remove the cams and rotate 90 degrees, and bend out about 1/8'' so that will engage the sliding latch.
Don't fret, it will all make sense once you tear into it. Removing and re-hanging the inside panels it what actually takes the most time, and even that is minimal. Let me know if you have any questions.

Omg I have been looking for those kind of locks in canada for ever. Thank you

 

[FDM2012]

So, for chitz and giggles, I have been experimenting with my resonator box that tee's
off of the intake tube.

I plugged it, and I installed this filter.

Plugged, I think MAYBE the turbo spooled up a little quicker, but I cannot confirm it.
And it had that loud and annoying drone at low speed acceleration and doesn't really let up until
45 mph or so, about the same time the TC locks up.

With the filter, I kinda want to say that it lost a little power. I know that doesn't make too much sense,
but that is what it felt like to me, and not only was the drone even louder, but now I had the hissing
of suction that was very pronounced.

So, after not being able to hold a decent conversation with my passenger, I put the resonator back in,
and the drone is completely gone, and I swear the motor smoothed out some.


It's just one of those things I have been pondering for a couple of months, and I like to experiment....

 

[gtbensley]

I had the exact same experience removing my resonator box. Had it out and put it right back in.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Good to know, I think I'll learn from your experiments and save my energy for the list of stuff waiting to be fixed...

 

[djbonsu]

Yes, I removed mine after some maintenance i performed on the HPOP and fuel bowl and the drone is annoying! Ill be tossing that thing back in soon as i havent noticed any performance gains. With it removed, It does open up the area above the motor a bit.