midtraveltaco
New member
I am looking at getting a welder I was wondering what type of welder would be best for building bumpers and role cages thanks.
Best Welder
- Thread starter midtraveltaco
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KG6BWS
Explorer
i think my vote would go to the millermatic 210. at least thats what i think theyre still calling it, i cant keep up with the damn name changes. a millermatic 180 at the smallest. no matter what brand you get, make sure the machine runs on 220. while you COULD use a 110vac machine for bumpers and roll cages, the smaller amperage, and therefore shallower penetration, output gives you very little room for error. not to mention the need to be extra careful about using proper bevels, preheat, etc.
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
There is no such thing as "the best" welder.
It all depends on the guy running it, the available power, the process that you need/want, how deep your pockets are, how thick of material you are using, how fast you want to work, and what you *like*.
Personally, I use a Millermatic 210. It was all I could afford at the time, has a 60% duty cycle (important), will get 3/8" on a single pass (most of my work is 1/8" - 1/4"), runs on the 250v I ran into the garage, etc...
It really is all about what "you" need, and can afford. Just don't under estimate how much welder you need. I don't think I have ever heard someone say "...you know, I really wish I wouldn't have bought that much welder..."
It all depends on the guy running it, the available power, the process that you need/want, how deep your pockets are, how thick of material you are using, how fast you want to work, and what you *like*.
Personally, I use a Millermatic 210. It was all I could afford at the time, has a 60% duty cycle (important), will get 3/8" on a single pass (most of my work is 1/8" - 1/4"), runs on the 250v I ran into the garage, etc...
It really is all about what "you" need, and can afford. Just don't under estimate how much welder you need. I don't think I have ever heard someone say "...you know, I really wish I wouldn't have bought that much welder..."
cid 96
Observer
best welder
I agree with the two previous post, buy bigger that what you think you will need and what the machine is rated for. Example, if you think that 1/4" is the biggest you will be welding and the machine is rated at 3/8" then you will always need to weld something bigger than 1/4" and the machine will only weld something 3/16" eventhough it is rated at 3/8".
I am in the Welding Supply Industry and I would be happy to give you a price on a machine. If you are in the area, you could buy it from me or I could at least keep the person you are buying it from honest.
Let me know, I am a Lincoln dealer, but I can also get you a Miller or Hobart.
Sid
I agree with the two previous post, buy bigger that what you think you will need and what the machine is rated for. Example, if you think that 1/4" is the biggest you will be welding and the machine is rated at 3/8" then you will always need to weld something bigger than 1/4" and the machine will only weld something 3/16" eventhough it is rated at 3/8".
I am in the Welding Supply Industry and I would be happy to give you a price on a machine. If you are in the area, you could buy it from me or I could at least keep the person you are buying it from honest.
Let me know, I am a Lincoln dealer, but I can also get you a Miller or Hobart.
Sid
dustboy
Explorer
Timely thread..I'm looking for a welder for the same application. I emailed a machinist/metalhead friend of mine the same question and his reply:
"What brand are you going to buy? Miller is the best. Lincoln is a close second and I hear Hobart are okay also. Don't mess with any of the off brands. You're going to need service and accesories and brand name makes that easier.
Also, with Mig you are going to need gas refills every once-in-a-while so find a shop you like that can sell you gas and wire and give you advice. I've been using the same small shop for years. The guys know me by name and always help with advice and deals. If you buy your machine from a shop like this you will pay more but it will be worth establishing a relationship. it's almost more important which shop you buy from than which brand you buy. Drive to all the local shops and talk to the guys, then make a decision.
The next question is size. You are going to need to know what size metal you intend to weld in order to pick a welder size. Also, bigger welders need more electicity. Your dryer outlet is 30 Amps so don't buy a welder that requires more than that or you will have to do some serious electrical work on your house. My welder runs on 50 amps and I had to spend $400 and 2 days running power to it.
Also, try not to get talked into flux-core wire feed welders. They are cheaper and don't need gas but the welds suck and they make a mess. If you have to save money, buy one that can be converted to Mig later when you have the cash."
"What brand are you going to buy? Miller is the best. Lincoln is a close second and I hear Hobart are okay also. Don't mess with any of the off brands. You're going to need service and accesories and brand name makes that easier.
Also, with Mig you are going to need gas refills every once-in-a-while so find a shop you like that can sell you gas and wire and give you advice. I've been using the same small shop for years. The guys know me by name and always help with advice and deals. If you buy your machine from a shop like this you will pay more but it will be worth establishing a relationship. it's almost more important which shop you buy from than which brand you buy. Drive to all the local shops and talk to the guys, then make a decision.
The next question is size. You are going to need to know what size metal you intend to weld in order to pick a welder size. Also, bigger welders need more electicity. Your dryer outlet is 30 Amps so don't buy a welder that requires more than that or you will have to do some serious electrical work on your house. My welder runs on 50 amps and I had to spend $400 and 2 days running power to it.
Also, try not to get talked into flux-core wire feed welders. They are cheaper and don't need gas but the welds suck and they make a mess. If you have to save money, buy one that can be converted to Mig later when you have the cash."
KG6BWS
Explorer
millers and lincolns are VERY close together. that one comes down to personal preference. i tend to prefer millers for the smaller mig machines, but when it comes to my big engine drives and pushing heavy wire, its lincoln all the way.
i do agree with establishing a relationship with your local shop. if theyre good guys, keep your business with them. that strategy has paid off with some pretty hefty discounts over the years on wire, rod, wheels, and such.
i agree too, dont buy one that is flux core only. while i very rarely use gas shielded wire, its nice to have the option there if i want it.
dieselcruiserhead
16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
pretty much all of the info here is correct. I have one small step down from the 210 (or whatever it's called now)... Called the DVI. Using .030 wire (instead of .035) and it's dual outputs make it a decent thin-stuff welder too. Not quite as balsy as the 210 but a very good machine as well. Can do 3/8" in one pass no questions asked... hope it helps...
I gotta give props to my Millermatic 210. The same machine is now called the MM 212. This is a great machine for all around welding chores. I've built 2 spring over trucks with mine and just used it the other day to make bump stop extensions. Once you have a welder, you will use it more than you think.
I looked at Miller and Lincoln, and chose the Miller only because I thought the drive mechanism was more intuitive to take apart for wire changes. Otherwise they work the same, cost the same, have the same availability of service parts. I would be happy to run a Lincoln. Like Miller they are solid well made machines.
The advice about 220v machines is good. They are far more useful and you will typically get better penetration in heavier metal. My 210 runs fine on a dryer circuit. At full output it can draw 29 amps. You virtually never weld at full output.
Also, shielding gas is really nice for good looking clean strong welds. I probably go through 2 fills a year of a large cylinder so you don't need to change cylinders or refill that often.
I looked at Miller and Lincoln, and chose the Miller only because I thought the drive mechanism was more intuitive to take apart for wire changes. Otherwise they work the same, cost the same, have the same availability of service parts. I would be happy to run a Lincoln. Like Miller they are solid well made machines.
The advice about 220v machines is good. They are far more useful and you will typically get better penetration in heavier metal. My 210 runs fine on a dryer circuit. At full output it can draw 29 amps. You virtually never weld at full output.
Also, shielding gas is really nice for good looking clean strong welds. I probably go through 2 fills a year of a large cylinder so you don't need to change cylinders or refill that often.
TEJASYOTA
Adventurer
I personally am not a welder, but I have bought welders for my guys, when I ran the company's machine shop, about two companys ago, and now the company I work for, all we have are Millers.
The Millers (most are the 210 units) we currently use are for welding SS tubing (up to .120 wall) and fittings.
But it is mainly up to the experience of the person.
The Millers (most are the 210 units) we currently use are for welding SS tubing (up to .120 wall) and fittings.
But it is mainly up to the experience of the person.
midtraveltaco
New member
thanks for all of the in put is there any type that is easier to learn on
Extreme Steel
Observer
C'mon guy bust out the lunck box! Miller Maxstar 150 stick and tig. don't be scared on burning some 7018 rod! also you can tig with this unit. this little guy can go from 110 power to 220 how great is that:victory: