canter rims

[whatcharterboat]

so I am happy to help your Boss if he wishes to contact me.

Thanks Alan, Could you PM me your contact number? Also did you get my PM about the guy in the US with the 75 Series?

the difference between the front and back tracks is only maybe 2-4mm tops, so I am pretty happy with the results! and it looks great!

I've got an exact formula that I worked out for calculating offset when the front wheel is mounted one way and the rear is on the oppposite way. I'm sure you did the same calculations but if they followed your measurements and the offset is as you say, it is only 1 or 2 mm out on each wheel. I don't think you could complain too much as long as they balance up alright.

at the moment I am removing all chassis rivets to dismantle chassis and carry out repairs,

Ah yes my favourite pastime. No easy way around that. Big sledgy or alot of drilling. Same pain either way. Have you tried all the wreckers for chassis rails or aren't they too bad?

There's a good wrecker in Brisbane that has a lot of Canter stuff. Don't know the name off hand but I could get it easy enough, if you want. We mainly do new trucks or fabricate our own gear. Even fabricate our own cross members if we have too but of course we are licensed to do that sort of work without any DoT dramas.

John

 

[93Canter]

Cheap wheels from China has me interested.

In my travels I have had too many punctures and have never been sure where to put the blame.

Is it tyres (Wranglers TG) not up to the full 5 tonne,
or
When I get stuck in sand and have let the pressure down is it the rims with tube, letting sand in between the tyre and the tube and giving me the puncture a few 1000km later.

There is usually no evidence of a sharp object to blame it on.

 

[kerry]

The Canter I originally bought of Ebay, and got ripped off, I was told it was in good condition no rust runs well etc, got it shipped to Victoria from Sydney and found it was full of rust, stress cracks in the cab, cracks in the chassis and rust between the chassis rail joints, I was not happy! so I could not decide what to do with it, then I discovered the bigger rims were so expensive, then I thought if I can get them made cheaper I would go ahead and start the project, so this is what is happening.

It was originally a service vehicle for a earthmoving company from what I can tell, it was well used and abused, the original heavy steel tray was rigidly u bolted to the chassis, which was not good for it, I have just purchased a really good second hand cab which also has air/con so thats a bonus, another fuel tank for the other side, and 2 electric winches 15,000Ib for the front and a 10,000Ib for the rear, at the moment I am removing all chassis rivets to dismantle chassis and carry out repairs, as Mitsubishi tell me they won't sell main chassis rail sections, only cross members.

Got any pictures of the cracks you could post? Given Doug Hackney's recent frame problems it might be useful so that us FG owners can keep an eye on the problem areas.
Can you elaborate on why a rigidly mounted tray was bad for the frame? There are couple of people on here with rigidly attached boxes of one kind or another.

 

[alan]

Hi Kerry,
From what I can see it has a crack in the same area where Doug's cracked, during the week I will take some pic's and post them.

I will probably bring in about 60 rims only, so if anyone wants some let me know.

 

[dhackney]

so that us FG owners can keep an eye on the problem areas.

This would be a good topic for a seperate thread.

I know I've seen several mentions from the guys from OZ about common failure points on the chassis for the FGs that are used to run the beaches, etc., in the commercial tourist trade.

The OZ fleet certainly has several orders of magnitude more kilometers experience with their fleets of FGs than all of us put together with our personal trucks based out of North America.

I think between their experiences with stress cracks, corrosion points, etc., and what we can learn from our FG frame, we could start to build a knowledge base of known challenges and things to avoid in design and construction.

It would be great to put all that together into one coherent thread so people looking for that data in the future could find it without hours of searching.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Hi Alan.

It was originally a service vehicle for a earthmoving company from what I can tell, it was well used and abused,

Mate, some of those guys would be the worst culprits for vehicle abuse. I once saw a 30ton excavator with the arm and bucket pressing down hard on the tray of a light truck and it was parked that way on a worksite for the weekend so that it couldn't get stolen. They also like to DROP excavator buckets and other heavy implements in them with very little regard (or care about GVM). Mine vehicles cop the same treatment.

I will probably bring in about 60 rims only, so if anyone wants some let me know.

Like I said

Could you PM me your contact number? Also did you get my PM about the guy in the US with the 75 Series?

At the moment we are only getting wide 19.5 inch 6stud rims made for the new FGs and NPSs but obviously we get a lot of inquiries on the older 5 stud SRW conversions. So we might be able to do something there. Are you going to bother to have them ISO tested?

We've had tubeless 16's made in the past using widened rims meant for a landcruiser with FG centres but only up to 4.5 ton.

BTW Hi Doug, Thanks for the Amazon pics. Incredible photography, as always.

 

[alan]

They certainly gave this one plenty of abuse! hopefully tomorrow I will take some pic's.

I doubt if I will have the rims tested, But I will ask the factory if they are rated, there is stamping numbers on the rims, and the centres are 10mm instead of std 8mm, I will certainly never break them.

 

[alan]

The factory tell me the rims are rated for 1600kg which is plenty for my vehicle.

 

[canter tourer]

Hi All, Just a couple of quick questions before I pull everything apart to fit my new single rims and end up scratching my head... and potentially off the road..

On the rear of the canter when fitting single rear wheels, is there anything I need to know about the wheel nuts etc?

I have read that the left hand side wheel nuts are left hand thread? is this correct? So I undo them the other way?

Not being too familiar with the truck yet, (but getting better all the time), looking at the rear wheel nuts, they have the nut with the square end which holds the inner rim on and then the wheel nut goes over the top of this to hold the outer rim on.

So what do I use to hold the new rear rim on as a single rear? I'm assuming it's the lnog nut with the square end, otherwise the other nut would be too large in diameter to fit? Or is there a better option, as this will look a bit odd I think?

Hope the above makes sense, any help, ideas suggestions etc much appreciated...

 

[SkiFreak]

I have read that the left hand side wheel nuts are left hand thread? is this correct?

Yes.

So I undo them the other way?

Yes.
The nuts on the left-hand side undo clockwise.
The nuts on the right-hand side undo counter clockwise.

So what do I use to hold the new rear rim on as a single rear?

On my truck the nuts on the rear are the same as the nuts on the front.
On the rear there is also a spacer between the brake drum and the rim.

 

[canter tourer]

On my truck the nuts on the rear are the same as the nuts on the front.
On the rear there is also a spacer between the brake drum and the rim.

Many thanks for that. So I will order 5 l/h and 5 r/h threaded nuts and all will be sweet, maybe some spares too....

Is the spacer something that is factory fitted and will I find this when I pull the duals off? or is it something extra you have fitted?

 

[SkiFreak]

Is the spacer something that is factory fitted

Sorry, I don't know.
I got the truck and single wheel conversion from ATW. I never saw the truck with the duals on it.

 

[canter tourer]

No worries and thanks again, I will just see how I go then, can't be too hard

 

[1Engine]

You can use the inner wheel nut to hold on your rear wheels, as you will notice the lands on the nut are the same size of the bevel on the rim.
Left Hand side is a left hand thread.

 

[hoggie]

Mate check out the 16.5 bfg's muddies I think you will find the ratings are fine as you look at the rating per tyre so times it by four that's the limit you can handle cheers