Dodge Ram 3500 Overland Build

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Great :Wow1::Wow1:looking truck Mr Wander. Good to see another Van guy here on the forum. I am looking forward to seeing more pics of your fine rig as you get a chance to go out and explore. Cheers, Chilli...:)
 

Driven To Wander

Adventurer
ScanGauge II Install

Scan Gauge 2 Install 4.jpg

The ScanGauge II is a highly capable and very compact add-on multifunction computer that can monitor truck's systems and provide real-time information. It plugs in and gets its power from OBD (On Board Diagnostics) II port. It has three main functions

  • an OBD II scanner,
  • real time gauges,
  • a trip computer.

Scan Gauge 2 Install 2.jpg

ScanGauge II displays the 5-character error code(s) associated with a check engine light. I can “pull the codes”, make my own repairs, clear the codes and turn off the check engine light.
Most usefully, with its exclusive X-GAUGE™ programmable gauge system; I can monitor parameters such as transmission temperatures, trip data and fuel economy information. Here is x-gauge code from ScanGauge II website for my truck.

Scan Gauge 2 Install 3.jpg

I wanted to install ScanGauge II somewhere that it does not block other vital displays. Unit has two RJ-45 style jacks - one on the side and one on the back so you get some choice of cable location. Here are step by step instructions:

1. Remove the cover of ScanGauge II.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 5.jpg


2. I picked up two cheap measuring tapes from a dollar store for their clips.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 6.jpg


3. Remove the clips from the tape measures, and find a good spot on the top face of the back cover of ScanGauge II so that screws has enough clearance.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 7.jpg


4. Drill two small holes and attach the clips to the cover.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 8.jpg

Scan Gauge 2 Install 9.jpg


5. Put back the cover. Here is the side view.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 10.jpg


6. Unit comes with 6 feet connector cable. After connecting it to OBD II port under the dash, near the steering column, remove the driver side pillar cover with 10mm socket and run the cable behind it.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 11.jpg
 
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Driven To Wander

Adventurer
ScanGauge II Install Part II

Scan Gauge 2 Install 12.jpg


7. Slide the newly attached clips of the ScanGauge II behind the ceiling cover. Tuck the rest of the cable behind there too.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 15.jpg


Installation is complete.
Scan Gauge 2 Install 14.jpg
 

Driven To Wander

Adventurer
Interesting thread. Great choice of base vehicle. I have now been overlanding for 6 years in Africa, Europe and presently in Latin America. My advice is to keep the mods of the base vehicle to a minimum and as simple as possible. It is usually difficult but possible to get spares for stock parts especially of older vehicles. Don't even think about getting spares for US aftermarket parts outside North America. I would not lift the truck. You already have plenty of ground clearance for anything you are likely to encounter and lifting changes the whole geometry of your suspension and drive train. It looks great but is a waste of money for 3rd world trips. Add one or two leafs to your rear axle (easily replaced if broken), perhaps stiffer springs for your front axle if it feels to soft and some heavy duty shocks. Use steel rims, 3rd world tire repair guys often use tools which are damaging aluminum rims. Use the highest load rating you can find and I found AT tires a good compromise between on road performance and ruggedness. 90+% will be on paved roads, even in Africa. Use a tire size you can find in the countries you plan to visit. Shocks filters and tires are the only parts I had to replace so far after 80,000 km of overlanding. The most useful mod so far was a tire pressure monitoring system. Thanks to this gadget I detected 3 punctures before the tires were seriously damaged.
My 2 cents. Stefan

Hi Stefan, thank you for your tips. I have no intention to mod the engine. 5.9 Cummins Diesel is amazing as is. I do have AT tires, 285-70-17 Michelins, I am pretty happy with them. If anything, I may go down to 265s for my next set of tires. Ram 3500 is handling the weight with ease, actually it drives much better with the camper.

Do you have a blog I can check your adventures?
 

sg1

Adventurer
I have a blog: www.reisephant.blogspot.ca It is mostly in German though and not very up to date. Right now I am traveling through Central America and just don't find the time to write. To many beaches and ruins.
Stefan
 

Ozymandias

Observer
Hi

With all that complaints about the unit bearings - no one tells the poor new owner that they are greasable and so done will last as long as a freespin hub.

The 48RE is a reliable unit but needs a little help, BD Diesel in Abbotsford has a little unit that raises the pressure in it to a level that is safe and prevent any slippage. Change the ATF every 30000Km and it will usually last. If you are willing to pend a little more on it then go with an upgraded Torque Converter, for me that was the best money i spent on my truck, drive ability is so much better its fantastic, the OEM Converter is from the V10 has far to much slip in it for the Cummins, wastinf Fuel and generates Heat.

315/70-17 is the tire I run since 65000Km, in Europe, Iceland and beyond, it rubs a little with full lock but that doesn't disturb me.
There is NO Lift required for this Tire on this Truck.

Last but not least, go and install an Exhaustbrake, OEM or else, it will safe your servicebrake and is a dream on long downhill grades. Mine is allways switched on on Auto.

Ozy
 
Hi

With all that complaints about the unit bearings - no one tells the poor new owner that they are greasable and so done will last as long as a freespin hub.

The 48RE is a reliable unit but needs a little help, BD Diesel in Abbotsford has a little unit that raises the pressure in it to a level that is safe and prevent any slippage. Change the ATF every 30000Km and it will usually last. If you are willing to pend a little more on it then go with an upgraded Torque Converter, for me that was the best money i spent on my truck, drive ability is so much better its fantastic, the OEM Converter is from the V10 has far to much slip in it for the Cummins, wastinf Fuel and generates Heat.

315/70-17 is the tire I run since 65000Km, in Europe, Iceland and beyond, it rubs a little with full lock but that doesn't disturb me.
There is NO Lift required for this Tire on this Truck.

Last but not least, go and install an Exhaustbrake, OEM or else, it will safe your servicebrake and is a dream on long downhill grades. Mine is allways switched on on Auto.

Ozy

What converter did you go with Ozy? I absolutely hate the converter in my 04'. I am shopping now, but the dedicated diesel sites are nothing but a bunch of nut-huggers spewing bad info gleaned from other nut-huggers. I would like to hear from people that have actually laid money down, what did, and didn't work.

Oh, Nice rig DTW! Looks great sporting that camper!
 

incognito

Adventurer
hy,
I'm finishing my blog in a couple of days about the Dodge ram detailed mods in order to be a good expedition vehicle.
meanwhile before changing the torque converter, the Dodge will perform better with tuner like smarty touch or s06. I have the so6. iT's all in the programming of the TC, ONce you have the smarty you could choose a more agressive setting so it with less slipage when unlocked.smarty is very good for offroading since with OEM programing fuel is severly limited at low speed so impresion of lack of power.30 or 60 hp are safe for the stock transmission according to smarty. of course all depends of the driver but with the tuner is a complete diferent truck, shifts a lot crispier and more responsive.
with smarty you need GAUGES to check the EGTS
transmission is very good untill it breaks hihi like mine did ( without notice at 180 k kms) so 3000 $rebuilt transmission and auxiliary transmission radiator with fan 180F thermostat from ebay.but mine carryed a huge contruction trailer in the city so it didn't help.a supersingle converter is good up to 500 HP no need for a triple.
http://dieselperformanceconverters.com/products/dodge-diesel-converters/
I've liked the location of the 12v compressor since i'm trying to get a bd exhaust brake kit
michelins ltx are great tires I would do 265 rear and leave the 245 front., better handling and mpg....



http://globalcamper.blogspot.ca/p/4x4-dodge-ram-camper.html
have safe travels
incognito
 
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silvrcummns

New member
I have a suncoast rebuild kit in my 04 Dodge Ram. Their triple disc converter, red clutches (eagle I think), valve body, and think it's a tcs billet input shaft. I have found that my truck with this transmission is sensitive to tv cable adjustments ( my trans does not have the motor on the side of it). Other then that I've been happy, and I only notice the adjustments because I have driven a lot of different built transmissions.

I would not and do not recommend anyone with a stock or original transmission to run a smarty. I get the torque management setting (mine is set lower to keep smoke levels down, I live in Colorado). But these transmissions aren't meant for more then stock power, let alone towing. Especially from a very aggressive tuner like the smarty is. Main issues I've seen these trannies have or long term die is from the convertor slipping or getting stuck locked up or from 2nd gear band wearing out. Modified trucks ( high horsepower high bafoon driving) will create other issues but over landers aren't typically in that realm. Do you need a big triple disc billet cover all billet shaft trans? Most likely not. I went for a beefier build for the occasional drag races, don't feel like you need all the expense stuff because the trans shop says you do. My old shop did a ton of more basic stock part, rebuilt converters that people loved. The local company called spec rite. There are a few excellent trans builders with a great rep which brings "nut huggers" out to rep there stuff. Research and and ask questions, don't like there answers or attitude? Move on, lots of options out there.
 

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