Engine help needed - 3.5L SOHC 1998 Gen 2.5

[nwoods]

Is it possible the previous owner had it cut?

No, it's definately new.

 

[nwoods]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Unfortunately, I was unable to source all the parts in time to do the job this weekend, though I will start with the disassembly. Now to figure out where to find the special tools the FSM lists... Harbor Frieght?

 

[jaccox23]

Really the only special tool you'll be needing is the spanner to hold the harmonic balancer. If you go on the gen 2.5 specific tools and parts sticky on the home page a very extensive list of parts and tools are given for the gen 2.5. And the spanner can be made with $15 worth of stuff from the hardware store and made to be longer for extra leverage. It takes three bolts and one piece of steel. The a grinder to cut the steel and a drill to put the holes in it. Good luck with the process and really curious to see the true culprit of the mysterious hole

 

[jaccox23]

Oh and I figure I'll give you a few tips to speed things up. AC bracket has 5 bolts itself (one directly behind the compressor) and the compressor has to come off separate frome the bracket. The bolt closest to the fire wall on the bracket has 2 ground wires that are really important to reinstall. Easiest way to get to the AC is to remove battery and tray and also go through the driver wheel well with a really long extension. Also since your radiator is dry might as well pull it up out of the way (you'll be glad you did) to create some more wrenching room and might as well have the radiator cleaned at a shop. The person that cleans it is most likely going to compliment you on your radiator and thank you for not buying an aftermarket plus it's not very expensive at all to have them rod and pressure check it. You'll likely be suprised when they tell you the flow when you brought it in (mine was 30% lol) but you'll be happy to know you've got yourself an almost pristine radiator to deal with the summer. Plus any small shop will give you a guarantee and stand by Thier work if it were to ever develop a leak, you'll have to search as these shops are becoming more snd more scarce. And finally PB blaster is your friend. Go ahead and start soaking now while you wait for parts. Oh and don't forget those two o-rings for the water pump assembly they are sold separate and they are listed on the sticky page for the 2.5

 

[nwoods]

Really the only special tool you'll be needing is the spanner to hold the harmonic balancer. If you go on the gen 2.5 specific tools and parts sticky on the home page a very extensive list of parts and tools are given for the gen 2.5. And the spanner can be made with $15 worth of stuff from the hardware store and made to be longer for extra leverage. It takes three bolts and one piece of steel. The a grinder to cut the steel and a drill to put the holes in it. Good luck with the process and really curious to see the true culprit of the mysterious hole

I'm not sure I'd save any money making my own tool. I'd have to buy a grinder, and buy a welder, and take some night classes to learn how to use it. Again, I am handy with a circular saw and hammer....but I don;t have any metal working tools or much by the way of wrenches

 

[jaccox23]

If you know someone with a grinder it's like a 2 second cut. And there's no welding involved it's a single cut or you could even clamp the barstock in a vice bend it back and forth to get an even break then it's a matter drilling 4 holes and ta-da you likely save yourself some money and you can get more leverage out of the longer spanner. I was hesitant to make the tool myself but it's a very very handy tool after the 10 min it takes to make. It can also be used to holding the cam sprockets if you ever plan to remove those

 

[RyanY]

You can break loose the crank bolt by using a socket and bracing the ratchet handle against the frame. Bump the starter motor and your bolt should be loose.

 

[nwoods]

Well, step one didn't go so well. Tried removing the radiator. Can't get those two little hoses off the bottom that go to the trans cooler. Those squeeze clamps are diabolical! There's no easy way to get pliers onto them, and not enough room to pull the hoses off the fitting once I've got the pliers engaged. I spent two hours on that until I gave up. Maybe I'll just cut them off.

I am so envious of those of you who are mechanically inclined. Design skyscrapers, sure, no problem. Remove a hose clamp, nope! Too hard

 

[Salonika]

They aren't diabolical after you've seen one too many screw type hose clamps fail, loosen, or destroy smaller lines. The constant pressure type are a pain to work with, but provide much peace of mind once the job is done and you are in the middle of nowhere with your truck enjoying life. I ditched several of them in the past, only to develop leaks and then I ended up putting the original ones back on!

 

[nckwltn]

I'm not sure I'd save any money making my own tool. I'd have to buy a grinder, and buy a welder, and take some night classes to learn how to use it. Again, I am handy with a circular saw and hammer....but I don;t have any metal working tools or much by the way of wrenches

I made the tool with a drill and a hacksaw...(and 3/8ths inch bolts) pretty much the same as a circular saw and a hammer

The tool works really good in one direction for loosening, and you have to flip it over to tighten the crank pulley. I've also used a chain wrench around the crank pulley (not ideal but it worked)

 

[nwoods]

Here is a quick update. I spent the last 2 days in bed with Pneumonia or Black Lung or maybe it was just the Flu. On Friday I attempted to remove the radiator but was stymied by those two little hoses on the bottom that lead to/from the trans oil cooler. My son (6'-9", long, long skinny arms) was able to move the clamps off the fittings, but was unable to get the hoses off. Today, after a few days rest, I finally muscled the hoses off the fittings, shredding my hands in the process on those vicious squeeze clamps, and was able to remove the radiator to give myself some work room. Step 1: Complete. Elapsed time: 3 days. (okay, maybe 4 hours actual work time).

Feeling good about the radiator, hopped up on DayQuil, I proceeded with the tear down. I removed the fan nuts, pulled the fan, and removed all three belts.

Then just for fun, I put a 22mm socket on the crank bolt and give a turn to the left.....and it turned! Holy crap, my crank bolt was loose! The bottom pulley can be wiggled and is noticeably loose. This can't be good, right?

I stopped at that point, because, well, because I was concerned about what a loose crank bolt might signify. Would it cause anything major to happen? Is the engine toast? Is there any point in going further? I have no idea.

Also, I'm not quite sure what the next step is. Do all the pulleys and tensioners need to be removed, or can the engine plate or whatever is in front of the water pump be removed with all the pulleys and so forth still attached to it?

Edit: I found the missing portion of the timing belt cover in my skid plate when I removed it. Definitely evidence that it was chewed out by the belt from the inside:

 

[RyanY]

You're lucky you found it before it came completely off. You can thank whomever did your timing belt last for not torqueing the bolt to spec. You need to check to see if you have the updated crank bolt on your engine before you reassemble it and get the new bolt and washer if you still the old style.

You'll want to pull the crank pulley off and see how much damage has been done to the nose of the crankshaft because of it's looseness. Hopefully nothing is too badly mangled and it can be reassembled properly.

 

[nwoods]

Thanks Ryan, yes, I know for sure that I had provided the new style crank bolt (and washer) to the mechanic that did my timing belt job a while back. Also, in collecting parts for this new rebuild, I got another new crank bolt and washer direct from the Dealer, and they confirmed it was the new style bolt.

 

[RyanY]

If you have the updated crank bolt then that means it's completely due to being insufficiently torqued. If I were you, I'd be placing a call to the mechanic who did your timing belt last and explain what you've found. It wouldn't surprise me at all to find that your leaking water pump is due to incorrect assembly, and if you've got significant damage to the nose of the crankshaft there's going to be some serious expenses that he should be footing the bill for. Right now, at the very least I'd say he owes you a new timing belt and cover, crankshaft pulley, and woodruff key.

I would be finding a new mechanic as well, as this one has already proven his lack of quality and reliability.

 

[nckwltn]

perhaps the crank-shaft timing-belt pulley walked forward a little, perhaps bringing the belt with it?

I think you'll be totally fine with some new parts and slapping it all back together. The biggest pain in this job is the AC compressor.... there are 4 bolts that are quite a challenge to remove. it can be done though.

Also, the accessory bracket (the thing that holds the alternator, and power steering pump, etc) has a post that presses into the water pump. Make sure your new and old water pumps are the same thickness. The replacement pump I put in was slightly thicker, this caused the accessory bracket to not line up super awesome. Also caused me to have to redo the entire job to pull the water pump off and file down the thick spot.