Exrunners Xj

[ExpoMike]

Congrats on a nice XJ. I agree 100%, you do not want nor need a dropped pitman arm. It will cause bumpsteer issues. I agree on the TnT track bar. I have one and this thing is major beefy!!! I have been very happy with my PORC SYE kit and it's somewhat cheaper then some other ones.

Do you have a Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 rear end? If you have ABS, you have a D35, if not, it could be either one. If the 8.25, you'll be okay. If the D35, be careful with the skinny pedal as they are known weak points with larger tires. BTW, I am running 31" tires and 4.10 gearing is perfect. It replicates having stock 29" tires with 3.55's. As long as I keep my freeway speeds below 70, I am pulling 21-22mpg and towing 16-18mpg.

If you have found your way there, www.naxja.org is the major source for XJ info. Don't get me wrong, we have a lot of great people on ExPo but NAXJA is THE source for XJ specific info.

Again congrats! :jump:

 

[SixLug]

Nice ride man, there have been a lot of good, affordable cherokee's in middle tennessee lately!

Thanks...no joke. I got a really good deal on this one.

 

[SixLug]

Congrats on a nice XJ. I agree 100%, you do not want nor need a dropped pitman arm. It will cause bumpsteer issues. I agree on the TnT track bar. I have one and this thing is major beefy!!! I have been very happy with my PORC SYE kit and it's somewhat cheaper then some other ones.

Do you have a Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 rear end? If you have ABS, you have a D35, if not, it could be either one. If the 8.25, you'll be okay. If the D35, be careful with the skinny pedal as they are known weak points with larger tires. BTW, I am running 31" tires and 4.10 gearing is perfect. It replicates having stock 29" tires with 3.55's. As long as I keep my freeway speeds below 70, I am pulling 21-22mpg and towing 16-18mpg.

If you have found your way there, www.naxja.org is the major source for XJ info. Don't get me wrong, we have a lot of great people on ExPo but NAXJA is THE source for XJ specific info.

Again congrats! :jump:

Thanks for all the great info...Im gonna look at all the parts you guys have told me about.

Ive been to NAXJA before, but that was a while back and I actually forgot about it...so thanks for the reminder...I need to find a good forum for this thing.

I also found this XJ website if anyone doesnt know about it:


http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html

 

[OverlandZJ]

Yeah, the DPA wont be needed. It creates extra stress on the steering box to frame mount... not desirable on a unibody. There are ways to strengthen this.

You'll be better dropping the trackbar mounting point to gain better steering geometry. Quality kits like RE have the mount all dialed in for you. I'm running ~6" lift with good angles on trackbar and draglink.

Congrats on the purchase... beautiful rig.

 

[ExpoMike]

Yeah, the DPA wont be needed. It creates extra stress on the steering box to frame mount... not desirable on a unibody. There are ways to strengthen this.

You'll be better dropping the trackbar mounting point to gain better steering geometry. Quality kits like RE have the mount all dialed in for you. I'm running ~6" lift with good angles on trackbar and draglink.

Congrats on the purchase... beautiful rig.

Nope, you really don't want to do that either. If the track bar and the drag link are not running parallel (same angle) you will get a really bad bumpsteer problem when the suspension cycles up and down. What you need is a track bar that allows for a better droop without binding, unlike the stock one. That is why I went with the TnT model as the Johnny Joint on the frame side allows much more movement then the suspension could ever travel. This setup also comes with a very heavy duty frame bracket.

Oh another MAJOR help is some type of sway bar disconnect setup. You wil be amazed at how much better your suspension works and ride when offroading.

If you want to get max droop, change the lower arms to some aftermarket ones. The stock ones hit the lower shock bracket, which limits how far down it can droop. Changing nothing more then the lower arms (after the lift was installed) netted me an extra 1". Never hurts. :beer:

Here's a good shot.

 

[IH8RDS]

Congrats on the purchase. I run a JKS track bar. I also have a PORC SYE. It allows you to run a stock front DS in the rear, so they are both the same. Get you some long travel shocks, 31" and keep them fenders stock. 31" tires fit in the wheel wells nicely.

 

[SixLug]

well, heres what I did today:

I took the advice of checking out NAXJA, and read through all of the FAQs. Gained a lot of knowledge just in that section. So since my steering wheel was turned to the right driving straight (b/c of the lift) I just adjusted the drag link. Now my steering wheel is straight while I drive straight. The geometry of everthing looks pretty good actually....like I said, its only a 3" lift, but I think the 33's make it look bigger.

XJMike...what size is your lift?

Ok..couple of questions.
1). Im pretty sure I have the Chrysler 8.25 rearend. It has the flat bottom, looks to be 3" tubes, and has a Chrysler symbol on it instead of the Dana symbol. Correct?

2). I checked out my transfer case. NP231J. It also had a section on the data plate that said "Ratio: 2.72". Is this the Low range ratio?

3). When the engine cools down, and I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over without catching. I stop, recrank the engine and it starts right up. And it starts right up when warm. Any ideas?

4). The front dif has an extended breather on it going up into the engine bay (awesome). I see no vent or anything like that on the rear. Whats the deal there?

It also just threw a CEL, which happens to be the rear O2, but no biggie there. All in all, a productive XJ learning experience for me today.

 

[SixLug]

Congrats on the purchase. I run a JKS track bar. I also have a PORC SYE. It allows you to run a stock front DS in the rear, so they are both the same. Get you some long travel shocks, 31" and keep them fenders stock. 31" tires fit in the wheel wells nicely.

By DS, you mean driveshaft? Isnt a front driveshaft a lot smaller than the rear?

 

[IH8RDS]

Yes I mean drive shaft. It is smaller, but plenty stout. If the rear one happens to break I can just put the front in the rear. I have not heard of anyone having any issues using a front DS. It is a double cardon joint that is constructed pretty well.

 

[SixLug]

awesome...sounds good. Plus, they are probably pretty easy to get ahold of. Will it fit without modification (long enough)?

 

[IH8RDS]

3). When the engine cools down, and I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over without catching. I stop, recrank the engine and it starts right up. And it starts right up when warm. Any ideas?

.

Sounds like the earily stages of CPS failure. (Crank position sensor)

Sending you a PM

 

[IH8RDS]

awesome...sounds good. Plus, they are probably pretty easy to get ahold of. Will it fit without modification (long enough)?

If you have an AW4 automatic.

 

[SixLug]

If you have an AW4 automatic.

Yes I do. Cool.

 

[SixLug]

is this the PORC kit you guys like?

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter...d=153&osCsid=88f045cb3abf52028f4ede628284523c

 

[IH8RDS]

Thats it. Real easy to install. Just make sure, if you go the route that I did, the doner XJ DS is from an 4.0, AW4, and 231 transfer case. Basicically the same as what you have now. You will have to shim the axle spring perches so the pinion points straight at the transfer case output shaft. I rewelded my spring perches so I didnt have to use shims.


http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/