L322 Project: Bacon Slayer
- Thread starter BL Rover
- Start date
BL Rover
Member
Unfortunately, it does not. Even attempted to test fit my 265/65/18 from my LR3 and no luck there either. Planning on building a swing away tire carrier to solve that problem. I’m thinking I will build off of the tow hitch structure similar to another L322 build thread (pages 9 & 10).
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SkiWill
Well-known member
Well, that sucks. At least I'm less inclined to get in a fight with my wife now for why I have a 12 year old LR4 but also need a 15 year old Range Rover. If I could fit a 265/68R18 in there and get the extra 4-5 gallons of fuel capacity with the L322's larger fuel tank, that would have been awfully tempting for me.
BL Rover
Member
Made up a few Schrader valves with quick air connects for the trail. Saw a great video on YouTube a while back where a guy did this to individually inflate the air struts on his LR3. His video had a thorough parts list. All Amazon stuff. I’ll link if I find it again. He cut his in permanently. I’m just carrying these in case. Rather not cut a good line. 
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BL Rover
Member
Also put in this diff breather/ catch can. Surprised at the quality. Going to use the other port for the TCase breather tube I think.
The Amazon air hose I bought previously perfectly fits in one of the supplied connectors on the catch can.
Still working on the diff fluid coming out of the breather tube but this will at least keep things from spraying all over in the meantime.
Being told over on the FullFatRR forum it’s possible the drive shaft flange could be cutting into the engine oil sump tube and leaking engine oil onto the diff and, since engine oil is a lower viscosity, the oil is seeping past the old diff seal and overfilling my diff with engine oil. I can’t for the life of me imagine that would be possible but here we are. Need to drop the drive shaft for further investigation. Open to alternative ideas but this is the best I have to go on so far.
The Amazon air hose I bought previously perfectly fits in one of the supplied connectors on the catch can.
Still working on the diff fluid coming out of the breather tube but this will at least keep things from spraying all over in the meantime.
Being told over on the FullFatRR forum it’s possible the drive shaft flange could be cutting into the engine oil sump tube and leaking engine oil onto the diff and, since engine oil is a lower viscosity, the oil is seeping past the old diff seal and overfilling my diff with engine oil. I can’t for the life of me imagine that would be possible but here we are. Need to drop the drive shaft for further investigation. Open to alternative ideas but this is the best I have to go on so far.
gabrielef
Well-known member
I’ve been meaning to do this to my LR3 and 4. It’s a fantastic mod.
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SteveMfr
Supporting Sponsor
First: I love the L322 and I really like what you are doing! And the TuffAnt wheels look wfc - way cool.
A couple of comments on what I read:
- Carrying a replacement front strut is impractical space wise and weight wise. And a trail swap, while without a doubt possible, is not something I'd be excited about having to do. Rear air springs are not that bad, but still: if you revamp the air suspension the chances that you'll have a failure in the next 6-8 years are quite low (we have stats due to our customers). EAS issues are generally on old vehicles with poor maintenance. Parts prices have become quite bearable. Inspect and replace as necessary or just replace the struts, rear air bags and rear shocks and be done with it IMO. And have fun off-road with peace of mind. Just my 5cents.
- I have a 275/65 18 Maxxis MT in my spare wheel well. No air (no valve when forcing it in) and a bit of sweat. Tires of the same numerical size are all slightly bigger or smaller depending on the manufacturer or model, but I'm betting you'd be able to fit your spare. That said, I'm planning a swing away spare tire carrier for my L322 too
- While I am not completely objective on issues such as this, I believe my opinions are well founded. If you maintain your EAS, you very likely will not need an additional inflation system, and by clipping air lines to introduce additional inflation valves you are drastically increasing the number of potential failure points in your EAS. Every junction point is a potential leak source. Leave your airlines stock and, if you really feel the need, buy an IIDTool, use it to put your RR into build mode, and inflate each airbag manually to the height you want also using the IIDTool. The suspension will not release air and self level till you leave build mode.
- And last: did you really drill through your roof to add those rails? Front Runner really wanted you to do that? There are 6 M8 thread inserts under the roof rails stock. They will hold a lot. I have had a RTT and way too much poop on my rack on nasty washboards in the Sahara / Northern Africa, and through all sorts of terrain in Asia minor and Europe without issues. I am even less a fan of drilling through a virgin roof than clipping air lines. If it's necessary, then yes. But on the L322 it is not.
Not bashing anything, just constructive criticism
A couple of comments on what I read:
- Carrying a replacement front strut is impractical space wise and weight wise. And a trail swap, while without a doubt possible, is not something I'd be excited about having to do. Rear air springs are not that bad, but still: if you revamp the air suspension the chances that you'll have a failure in the next 6-8 years are quite low (we have stats due to our customers). EAS issues are generally on old vehicles with poor maintenance. Parts prices have become quite bearable. Inspect and replace as necessary or just replace the struts, rear air bags and rear shocks and be done with it IMO. And have fun off-road with peace of mind. Just my 5cents.
- I have a 275/65 18 Maxxis MT in my spare wheel well. No air (no valve when forcing it in) and a bit of sweat. Tires of the same numerical size are all slightly bigger or smaller depending on the manufacturer or model, but I'm betting you'd be able to fit your spare. That said, I'm planning a swing away spare tire carrier for my L322 too
- While I am not completely objective on issues such as this, I believe my opinions are well founded. If you maintain your EAS, you very likely will not need an additional inflation system, and by clipping air lines to introduce additional inflation valves you are drastically increasing the number of potential failure points in your EAS. Every junction point is a potential leak source. Leave your airlines stock and, if you really feel the need, buy an IIDTool, use it to put your RR into build mode, and inflate each airbag manually to the height you want also using the IIDTool. The suspension will not release air and self level till you leave build mode.
- And last: did you really drill through your roof to add those rails? Front Runner really wanted you to do that? There are 6 M8 thread inserts under the roof rails stock. They will hold a lot. I have had a RTT and way too much poop on my rack on nasty washboards in the Sahara / Northern Africa, and through all sorts of terrain in Asia minor and Europe without issues. I am even less a fan of drilling through a virgin roof than clipping air lines. If it's necessary, then yes. But on the L322 it is not.
Not bashing anything, just constructive criticism
BL Rover
Member
Thanks for the thoughts and feedback! Glad there are more L322 folks out there. Completely agree on cutting the air lines. Just have the valves made up so I sleep better. My thoughts on the spare air struts were to just have an extra bag front and rear not to keep the strut assembled in its entirety. I’ve been planning to change out all the air struts as they are the originals so figured I’d have extra spares. After taking the first one out and attempting to disassemble the air bag I realized what a complete pain it is to do. YouTube makes it look easy but mine was fused together with corrosion. It took lots of swearing and non trail tools to get it apart and the end result was an airbag in absolute shambles. All to say, yes, the air suspension is incredibly reliable if well maintained. Game plan now is to maintain it and hope for the best. As for the roof rack, the directions told me to drill through my roof but, fortunately, that seemed crazy enough for me to consider there must be a better way. I located and used the factory mounting points on the truck and only had to drill the supplied rails to correspond with the factory holes. I’m committed to the swing arm for the spare now because I’m going to build out a kitchen box in the trunk. Would hate to have to dig into the factory spare compartment once the box is built even if it were to fit. Share pics of your swing arm when you get it done. I’m all over the place with ideas on how I want to do mine. Thanks again for your thoughts.
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OregonGX
Member
I've had the same problem with the diff breather on my L322.
There were some discrepancies noted by my very trusted indy mechanic in Topix on fill capacity. One piece of guidance said fill to spill, the other had a set amount.
I had oil coming out the diff breather even after filling to the exact fill spec. I created a little catch can and after catching about 10ml of fluid I think it has stopped.
I think LR revised the diff breather design, so that is one thing I still need to check, and I need to check the operational fill of what is currently in the diff. It is a headscratcher for sure. But nice to have a buddy in the descent to madness.
There were some discrepancies noted by my very trusted indy mechanic in Topix on fill capacity. One piece of guidance said fill to spill, the other had a set amount.
I had oil coming out the diff breather even after filling to the exact fill spec. I created a little catch can and after catching about 10ml of fluid I think it has stopped.
I think LR revised the diff breather design, so that is one thing I still need to check, and I need to check the operational fill of what is currently in the diff. It is a headscratcher for sure. But nice to have a buddy in the descent to madness.
BL Rover
Member
There’s something to be said for solidarity! The volumes of fluid I was getting were pretty high and the fact that it corresponds to the oil level in my dipstick tells me something isn’t right. I’ve got it in the shop currently so I hope to have an update on what has been found soon. I’ll post back here for the benefit of the group!
BL Rover
Member
While I don’t regret it at all, there are some big differences that I hadn’t considered. Namely the complete lack of usable storage in the RR vs the LR3. It seemed like the LR3 had storage opportunities everywhere from the doors to the underside of the rear seat to the cubbies in the back. The RR has none of that. I plan to build a storage box system in the cargo area and that will help, but it’s still a big adjustment. Otherwise, it’s a much more enjoyable driving experience. The extra power is very noticeable, the better brakes instill confidence, and the command driving position is pretty similar. Though I’ve not yet tested it, the locking rear diff is a big bonus as well.
