Rear diff just let go

[AxeAngel]

I put TT/gears in mine at 55k, and the stock rear third had several teeth gone and had had stock tires. Also had several buddies explode the rears with just a bit of offroading. Lockers and HD axles are the cure, and last forever. No need to do the Toy stuff unless big gain in HP and tire size- like 35-37".

Dale, I was gonna do either a tt or an arb in rear. When I priced out the diff, gears, setting up of third and then axles it looke like buying a used v6 toy with elocker and 4.10s all set up at the factory seemed like the cheaper option. If only the toy axles could be had easily/cheaply.

Met with chuck from Durham last night, he brought me my axles. Nice guy! Had nothing but positive things to say about you.

-Sam

 

[David Harris]

How can the LR units be made stronger than the toy? Isn't the design inherently weaker?

-Sam

GBR Stage 2 axles, Stage 3 gears with the thrust bolts plus lockers exceed Toyota strength, at least according to Bill's data.

 

[TeriAnn]

and toyota axles axles are crap?
gotta explain that one

I don't know if they are crap or not but there is a lot to be said for having full floating LR axles if something breaks out on the trail. You just pull the axles, the propshaft going to that end and keep driving. I've done that multiple times before I upgraded the strength of my drive train. Can't do that with a Toy. At least not that I have heard. Break and axle and you are hosed unless you have everything needed to replace it with you. Stock LR might not be the strongest but you can still get home.

The Disco I and earlier diffs are not all that strong (I haven't a clue about the newer ones) but a Trutrac or an ARB fixes that. Except for the stock Salisbury axle the axles are not the strongest either. There are aftermarket upgrades for those as well. You can have strength and full floating axles too.

 

[David Harris]

I don't know if they are crap or not but there is a lot to be said for having full floating LR axles if something breaks out on the trail. You just pull the axles, the propshaft going to that end and keep driving. I've done that multiple times before I upgraded the strength of my drive train. Can't do that with a Toy. At least not that I have heard. Break and axle and you are hosed unless you have everything needed to replace it with you. Stock LR might not be the strongest but you can still get home.

The Disco I and earlier diffs are not all that strong (I haven't a clue about the newer ones) but a Trutrac or an ARB fixes that. Except for the stock Salisbury axle the axles are not the strongest either. There are aftermarket upgrades for those as well. You can have strength and full floating axles too.

Have to second that one. LR's full-floating design is one of the many things that sold me on their design and moved me from Jeeps to LR's. It just an example of the really smart moves that LR has made in their 4x4's. They're even full-floating on the front axle, which is almost unheard of. (on newer 4x4's at least)

 

[Yorker]

I don't know if they are crap or not but there is a lot to be said for having full floating LR axles if something breaks out on the trail. You just pull the axles, the propshaft going to that end and keep driving. I've done that multiple times before I upgraded the strength of my drive train. Can't do that with a Toy. At least not that I have heard. Break and axle and you are hosed unless you have everything needed to replace it with you. Stock LR might not be the strongest but you can still get home.

The Disco I and earlier diffs are not all that strong (I haven't a clue about the newer ones) but a Trutrac or an ARB fixes that. Except for the stock Salisbury axle the axles are not the strongest either. There are aftermarket upgrades for those as well. You can have strength and full floating axles too.

The Toyota conversion for coil sprung Rovers IS full floating.

 

[David Harris]

The Toyota conversion for coil sprung Rovers IS full floating.

Only because they are adapting to the Rover full-float design. Stock Toyota's are almost exclusively semi-float. The fact that these have obvious strength limitations is made obvious by the aftermarket full-float conversions available. The point was that Rover made full-float standard from the factory.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

True, most US market Cruisers were semi-float. Aus market Cruisers are, as far as I know, all FF.
80Series are all FF after 1992. Axles with factory lockers , cable or electric, are always FF.

 

[mongosd2]

ok, so the full floating toy axles under my truck, with stock 4.11, larger diameter r&p, larger carrier bearing, axle diameter comparable to Dana 60 are weaker than a LR, How? and by the way I'm running 37's Irok's, STOCK

I know you all hate DWEB, but before you start saying that the LR can be made stronger than a Toy, you should do some research...there are several threads that discuss this and show how while both have merits, the Toy stuff is stronger that the LR stuff straight out of the box.

 

[Yorker]

Only because they are adapting to the Rover full-float design.

Which is exactly what we were referring to here unless I am mistaken.

Stock Toyota's are almost exclusively semi-float. The fact that these have obvious strength limitations is made obvious by the aftermarket full-float conversions available. The point was that Rover made full-float standard from the factory.

Rover also made 10 spline 1.1" or 1.2" 24 spline axles "standard" from the factory that kind of makes FF necessary. If you had a wheel fall off every time a Rover axle shaft broke it would be a real pain in the ***. You also have a fairly weak 2 pinion spiral bevel differential. (Ignoring the Salisbury & ENV here) The fact that these have obvious strength limitations is made obvious by the aftermarket axles, differentials, and strengthening services(diff pegging) etc. available for Land Rovers.


Toyota Land Cruisers since 1993 have been full floating in the rear and it was always available in other markets, fronts have always been full floating to my knowledge.

 

[mongosd2]

Only because they are adapting to the Rover full-float design. Stock Toyota's are almost exclusively semi-float. The fact that these have obvious strength limitations is made obvious by the aftermarket full-float conversions available. The point was that Rover made full-float standard from the factory.

you need to do some research...What truck are basing this info on?

 

[David Harris]

ok, so the full floating toy axles under my truck, with stock 4.11, larger diameter r&p, larger carrier bearing, axle diameter comparable to Dana 60 are weaker than a LR, How? and by the way I'm running 37's Irok's, STOCK

I know you all hate DWEB, but before you start saying that the LR can be made stronger than a Toy, you should do some research...there are several threads that discuss this and show how while both have merits, the Toy stuff is stronger that the LR stuff straight out of the box.

I agree with you that the stock Toyota parts are stronger than the stock LR parts. I don't think there's much controversy over that. But can you mod the LR diff with aftermarket parts to make it as strong or stronger than the stock Toyota? Some, like GBR say that they can. As far as cost/trouble comparison, it is probably pretty close between the two.

 

[David Harris]

you need to do some research...What truck are basing this info on?

I'm thinking of the Toyota's available in the U.S. True, the LC's have been made as full-floaters, and with lockers, but these are not all that common in the U.S. market. Then there are the trucks, common here, but full-float? I've never seen one. (Not a real Toyota expert, admittedly, so please correct me if I'm wrong.)

 

[mongosd2]

I agree with you that the stock Toyota parts are stronger than the stock LR parts. I don't think there's much controversy over that. But can you mod the LR diff with aftermarket parts to make it as strong or stronger than the stock Toyota? Some, like GBR say that they can. As far as cost/trouble comparison, it is probably pretty close between the two.

Hate to disappoint you, show me one D1 running 40's on a modified LR axle...The strength gains for even turning a 33 is worth the conversion, Also part and gears are way cheaper than the LR stuff.
This has been beat to death on several forums and I'm not going to get into a debate about it. Can the LR diff be built up, yep, is the toy conversion stronger, yep...pick one, either will make the drivetrain stronger

 

[David Harris]

Hate to disappoint you, show me one D1 running 40's on a modified LR axle...The strength gains for even turning a 33 is worth the conversion, Also part and gears are way cheaper than the LR stuff.
This has been beat to death on several forums and I'm not going to get into a debate about it. Can the LR diff be built up, yep, is the toy conversion stronger, yep...pick one, either will make the drivetrain stronger

Toy axles are strong, but come on, asking a stock one to carry 40's for long is pretty extreme in all honesty, isn't it? Those shafts are pretty good, but they are NOT Dana 60's. I think you would find that anyone running 40's on stock Toy axles has broken a few.

 

[mongosd2]

Toy axles are strong, but come on, asking a stock one to carry 40's for long is pretty extreme in all honesty, isn't it? Those shafts are pretty good, but they are NOT Dana 60's. I think you would find that anyone running 40's on stock Toy axles has broken a few.

the stock axles on my truck are the same diameter as Dana 60's, guy's run 37's on toy's out here all day long, on DD's, expo rig's, desert trucks, blah, blah, blah, and very few have axle break issues.

But the flip side is that you can find people that have broken axles with 32's...

You really can't use a 40 as an exmaple for this forum, but reality is that they do, when they break, they put a longfield in and never look back...