Rear diff just let go

[David Harris]

the stock axles on my truck are the same diameter as Dana 60's, guy's run 37's on toy's out here all day long, on DD's, expo rig's, desert trucks, blah, blah, blah, and very few have axle break issues.

But the flip side is that you can find people that have broken axles with 32's...

You really can't use a 40 as an exmaple for this forum, but reality is that they do, when they break, they put a longfield in and never look back...

All I can say is that in the Jeep world, stock Dana 60's are considered too weak for sustained running with 40+ tires. They are upgraded with chromoly shafts and custom housings. In many cases the Dana 60's are left behind for GM 14 bolts, which make a Dana 60 look weak. 37+ on LR's is rare, more so probably because this isn't the usual LR ethic and use. However, people run 35's on modded LR axles all the time. All I'm saying is that LR axles can be made plenty strong for any reasonable use, so you don't necessarily need to go to Toy axles, or other to run big tires, even 37's.

 

[David Harris]

You really can't use a 40 as an exmaple for this forum . . .

Aren't you the one that mentioned 40's in the first place?

 

[Nonimouse]

D" axles are known for thier reliability over here, throw in a set of Ashcroft shafts and an ARB/TJM locker; Ashcroft CV's on the front and 300plus bhp and Simex 37's are okay

But, a careful driver doesn't break stuff anywhere near as often

On D1's throw out the 2 pinion 24 spline diff and throw in 4 pinion 24 spline. Slightly overfilling the diff works as well

Interestingly enough the toyota stuff does break, almost as often and costs more to fix.

The best way to go is a Salisbury front and rear with Dana 60 side gears and 37mm shafts made from proper steel. That's good for 600BHP and 700ft/lb.

 

[LeoLR]

Anyway did you get your axel fixed yet?



:sombrero:

 

[mongosd2]

Aren't you the one that mentioned 40's in the first place?

Just a s reference and I know 3 jeeps and 2 buggies running stock dana 60's with 40 or bigger tires...

whatever you want to believe

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

But can you mod the LR diff with aftermarket parts to make it as strong or stronger than the stock Toyota? Some, like GBR say that they can.

Have look here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=887211

 

[Nonimouse]

That is one forum that I truly loath

 

[upcruiser]

I had to replace the 3rd member on my D1 last December for the exact same set of circumstances. Not sure if it was a preexisting issue from the previous owner or if it was from me being admittedly not so smooth on a couple of parts of Lockhart Basin the month before. Probably my bad but it made me a bit nervous.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

That is one forum that I truly loath

It's the funniest one ever:sombrero:

 

[109 Pretender]

Maybe there's some confusion between the strengths/weaknesses when comparing toy to LR axles.
The toy axles being used for LR are from the mini truck/4 runner/fj cruiser family - not the larger FJ40 Land Cruiser axle which has a larger ring/pinion set and uses full floaters stock.
The 4 runner axle is semi float stock (although there are full float conversions) and it uses a 31 spline axle that is a bit stronger and slightly larger dia than the stock 10 or 24 spline LR axles. The early 4 runner uses an 8" R&P whereas LR uses an 8.75 R&P. (I think the late model toy truck R&P has gone to 8.75" (ie FJ Cruiser/late 4 runner) Of course the salisbury is a 9.75 because it's a HD Dana 60 design - (the HD is for the heavier webbing on the housing casting). Almost all US Dana 60 axles found in American trucks are NOT the HD Dana 60 case by the way.
Some say the hypoid design of Toy or Dana is superior to the spiral bevel design on the LR - I agree w/Bill Davis @GBR - THAT's a non issue really.
The LR R&P is not bad at all and can be much improved w/Bill's pinning to prevent the gears from moving apart under large loads which causes case failures - but that's for extreme use really...

Bill has some excellent HD axles that are made from a superior grade of metal that much exceed the factory axles. So too does Ian Ashcroft in the UK. The big axle problem for LR was the 10 spline sets used in days of old - it's not the O/A dia. of the axles that is the issue - it's the coarse splines because the strength of an axle is based on the min. root dia. of the axle - all other things being equal. The deep spline cut severly reduces the mean root dia. and that's where they break usually.
The stock salisbury (HD60) uses 24 splines which is an improvement, but the dia of the axle is minimally larger than the 10 spline. However, the O/A dia is almost equal to the min. root dia. because the fine splines aren't cut as deep as the 10 spline axles. Biggest improvement is the bigger R&P obviously.
Now you CAN build up a 35 spline 1.5"dia. D-60 axle set but only on the gear end - LR doesn't have enough room in the hub spindle for that large an axle shaft (unless you custom fab. hubs, bearings and spindle shaft) so you'd still have a smaller say 31 spline shaft end on the wheel side and that's the new weak point.
The big boys running the custom stuff now are making 40 spline axles for the D60 and that's way stronger than anything a LR could use unless you run 44+ tires and are laying down really big HP - which LR's don't usually...

Bill's custom axles are designed to a textbook principle - using the best correct grade of metal, proper hardening, careful attention to stress ridges by blending spline sections smoothly into the main shaft body,etc. But, the Toy axle conversion is ok too - just don't expect a miracle from the Toy R&P because it's not much if any better than the LR design. Certainly you should consider a locker carrier or at least a 4 spider carrier (2 shafts) because a closed carrier is way stronger than an open carrier no matter the R&P size.

I'd like to see someone build up a set of D-60 axles F&R using 35 spline and attach them to the portal boxes made by A.I.M. (a division of what used to be Rockwell axle company - the good folks who helped the duce and a half stay suspended on tires). The outboard side runs 40 spline on the front axle. It's probably the best 4 gear portal box out there right now and reasonably priced at around 6-8K for all 4 boxes w/Wildwood 4 pot disc brakes included. THAT would do a LR proud - but you'd have to use the 8 bolt Hummer wheels for the proper offset - google these folks, it'll make you drool...:drool:

 

[Nonimouse]

I used to find it funny - like watching monkeys at the zoo; but now, no. I can feel my sarcastic answer gland getting all swollen.

 

[mongosd2]

Mostly true, but don't have time to really answer all this with a intelligent post...bottom line, drink Bill's kool aid, or do some research and see what other have done to improve the LR drivetrain. There was a time when GBR was really the only option, but things have changed and now there are several vendors offering options...

and call Keith at Rovertrac's to get the low down on his set up.

 

[Rovertrader]

hate to throw a monkey wrench in here, but the D-IIs are semi-floaters, not FF.

 

[mongosd2]

yep...and d2's are a totally different design from a d1...

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Perhaps we could make this already good thread into a great thread by putting out a definition of what "full float" means, and also delving a little deeper into the D2 axle?

Mostly true, but don't have time to really answer all this with a intelligent post...bottom line, drink Bill's kool aid, or do some research and see what other have done to improve the LR drivetrain. There was a time when GBR was really the only option, but things have changed and now there are several vendors offering options...

I know nothing about this subject. But I've heard the debate, and it has never included any detailed info one way or the other. I'd love to hear it. So far, this just sounds like opinion.