Rear diff just let go

[Root Moose]

You don't necessarily have to get rid of the ABS (and by extension traction control I guess).

How does the D2 do ABS? Tone rings at outboard ends of the axle shafts or on the differential? If there is space you could adapt either approach.

I've seen forum posts where guys have adapted custom axles to existing ABS systems. In the case of the outboard axle style sensor location there is nothing saying you can't use a slightly wider axle (say ~1"-2") to make room for the tone ring. LRs have goofy track widths anyway, wouldn't hurt to widen it a bit. You can play with wheel offsets to put the wheel where you want since you wouldn't be locked into LR wheels any more.

I guess we'd be looking at completely custom since the LT230 is offset at both ends. Maybe Jeep Qtrac axles from a FSJ could be adapted instead of custom; they may even be a good width without narrowing. The rear would be a Dana 44 or an AMC 20 (one peice axles, not the CJ junk) depending on vintage which would be good enough I guess.

Just some thoughts.

 

[Chazz Layne]

Good point. IIRC from the last time I was under there, the entire electrical portion of the ABS on the axle is practically bolt on right next to the brake lines. It probably wouldn't take much to keep them.

 

[Viggen]

I guess we'd be looking at completely custom since the LT230 is offset at both ends. Maybe Jeep Qtrac axles from a FSJ could be adapted instead of custom; they may even be a good width without narrowing. The rear would be a Dana 44 or an AMC 20 (one peice axles, not the CJ junk) depending on vintage which would be good enough I guess.

Just some thoughts.

Why? You can get a Salibury rear from a D110 which is basically a D60 and is plenty strong for what is needed for 99% of the people on this board. Then, upgrade the stock front with Long Tracks and be done with it.

 

[AxeAngel]

[/IMG]

Drain pan had globs of silver glitter.

 

[Maryland 110]

It takes half the time to swap a whole axel instead of taking everything apart and putting it back together with new seals and bearings the right way.

Thats not been my experience but to each his own. My thought process would be that an axle with new seals and bearings would be superior to a used replacement of questionable condition.

 

[Maryland 110]

Why? You can get a Salibury rear from a D110 which is basically a D60 and is plenty strong for what is needed for 99% of the people on this board. Then, upgrade the stock front with Long Tracks and be done with it.

Compared to the other axles he's named a salisbury is a hens tooth stateside.
Not a lot of 110's getting parted out in the US and shipping one if you can find it is rediculously expensive compared to picking one up @ the local pick and pull. The Salisbury has horrible ground clearance issues compared to others as well.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

[/IMG]

Drain pan had globs of silver glitter.

When I did my first gear oil change, my front one looked kinda like that as well. Not as bad, but it is worse than the rear. And every change since, it has more mung on it than the rear. So I'm not quite sure what's going on.

 

[Chazz Layne]

That's about what my rear one looks like every time I pull it.

 

[AxeAngel]

That's about what my rear one looks like every time I pull it.

Start saving up for a new rear then.

The pin holdingmmy gears in place got loose, the gears started to wobble. Eventually the pin bent. I will post pics later.

-Sam

 

[Chazz Layne]

Indeed, I have been. My thought is to just do gears, lockers and the Ashcroft shafts while I'm in there (front too, of course). Hopefully it'll hold another month or 2.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Start saving up for a new rear then.

The pin holdingmmy gears in place got loose, the gears started to wobble. Eventually the pin bent. I will post pics later.

-Sam

You're talking about the pin holding the diff gears right?

 

[AxeAngel]

Indeed, I have been. My thought is to just do gears, lockers and the Ashcroft shafts while I'm in there (front too, of course). Hopefully it'll hold another month or 2.

I had the same plan. But a used stock diff is just so damn cheap. Lot of money and I don't know how straightforward the front install is.

-Sam

 

[AxeAngel]

To keep the costs down I want to put a TT with 4.10s up front and toy rear with rovertracks axles. Should be able to do it all for $1500

 

[05LR3AZ]

To keep the costs down I want to put a TT with 4.10s up front and toy rear with rovertracks axles. Should be able to do it all for $1500

Really? You'll have to post cost once it's done. It's $600 for the toy rear but then you need the Toyota 3rd and E-Locker. Then it's $500 for a TT, $375 for 4.10's. I guess it would be close...

 

[AxeAngel]

Really? You'll have to post cost once it's done. It's $600 for the toy rear but then you need the Toyota 3rd and E-Locker. Then it's $500 for a TT, $375 for 4.10's. I guess it would be close...

TT and gears can be done for 600$, elocker can be done for less or you can get a plain vanilla 4.10 toy v6 diff($50-$100) and add a $250 locker.

-Sam