Rover Warrior.... LR3 Build engagement pics

srschick

Adventurer
PFFT yourself if you didn't remove the exterior window edging trim and main door/body seals. What I did on the Audi was not mere mechanically aided paint buffing.

However, I also have a Java lr3 which has enough trail striping to not even bother trying to get it all out.

As part of a new LR3 project, today I removed all the plastic fender and lower door edge cladding (as well as separating the actual seals from the lower cladding) to clean out old dirt/crud in order to rebuild with snug seal at bottom of door edges against the recently refurbished Rover Specialties sliders.

(sorry, was in reply to MontyMog's post)
but after getting the LR3 I did do a major "fine restoration", as a used car is usually not on perfect order.
Kind of like what you described with your Audi. Even took the carpet out to steam clean.

But now I'm in the same boat as you, I'll do a minor buff after an "adventure", the deep scratches get a fill with Dr. ColorMatch and a buff out, and not much more. I even switched from the high-end wax (Blackfire BlackIce) to a more basic solution (Collinite 845).
 

MontyMog

Rolling Thunder
Mine was the same way. After seeing mad max I may add some spikes and a small child to spit gas into the intake to "bump" the motor.
 

srschick

Adventurer
Paul, what tires are you running, and what battery did you use for the second one?

I finally got the lightbar switch in, mounted in the same location you have yours (moved the mic to the right side).
But I measured thrice and cut once, it looks pretty damn nice. Now I gotta figure out where to mount the mic so I can install the switch for the rear lights.
 

MontyMog

Rolling Thunder
I run the dura tracs and love them. They aren't loud and do pretty good in the soft mud here in the south. For my second battery I went with the yellow top D34. I choose this battery because that's what the trixde kit recommend. I have read mixed reviews about the battery. As for the other switches you can trim the black bracket that holds the mic or u can glue the mic in place and remove the bracket freeing up a good bit of room to mount switches.
 

srschick

Adventurer
I'm using an Odyssey 2150 because I wanted the most run time possible. It required basic modification of battery tray/box:

I thought the largest one that would fit in the second tray was the 1500? how much modification did you have to do? because I'd love to put something larger than the 34/78.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
easy peasy

I don't know what fits in tray unmodified, but that's why I said it had to be changed. 1500 ish is probably true, or the 1350 like I put in the 1st location (primary position) and while bigger than stock, it fit perfectly with no mods. By the way, 1350 has better charactristics than 1500 even though the numbers suggest bigger numbers = "better". The 1350 lasts longer even though the CCA are slightly higher in 1500/850cca. Interestingly the 1220/680cca is spec for lr3, 1350/770cca for lr4.

All 4 listed for your comparison ;) I listed the 1500 before 1350 because I think it's superior. My guess is that the 1500 is "recommended" because it's the easier fit.

1220 http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/pc1220-a?pp=12

1500 http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/34-pc1500t-a?pp=12&sort_selection=price_high_low

1350 http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/pc1350-a?pp=12

2150/1150 cca, 100 ah, 205 reserve which is basically 50% more on all points than 1500 and the 1500 is barely up to spec for LR3.
http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/31-pc2150t-h

I'd had the Optima yellow and red dual in my 1996 disco and then also in the 2004 disco mainly because back then, in 2001 -2006, I didn't know any better but they also fit well in the tight engine bays. (in a disco 2 you can put 2 optima in side by side turned 90 degrees from factory orientation with a little fiddling. So, it's a slick set up. They never lasted like these Odyssey's though. Could be as simple as quality control.

In the LR3, I think it's really worth reworking the factory trays because there really is a lot of space if you thoughtfully use it all. I have the 2150 on the port side with the item (pump or something) in front of it on a bracket moved forward just enough to still allow then in front of it, before the washer filler, an ARB compressor with gauge and outlet plus piping to reserve tank mounted under starboard side frame/sill cavity using a factory tank identical to what is mounted on port side for air suspension.

for left hand drivers, port is driver side ;)
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
I have the basics here for easy access. Oil, air, winch control.
I have some nice air lines but because of this location I figured cheap and compact is best. This compressor feeds to but it also part of the volume of air in the tank mentioned above, from the tank there is also a line to the port side rear cargo panel along with a gauge there. Back there is also where the battery manager switch and spare fuses are located. That rear air outlet is actually coming out through the plastic above the small hatch so that you can use it without opening things up. That one is mainly for seating the bead on tubeless mtn bike tires.

The purpose of two air lines under the hood are to reach the spare tire on bumper but also in case anything happens to one. I probably ought to tuck it away in a not so hot location or where a service tech could screw it up. They already didn't place things back properly and bent the electrical connectors on top of the pressure sensor? solenoid? in the air line (blue and red wires with white connectors). For this reason, I will probably relocate anything near that area and just leave the hose back toward the hood hinge.

IMG_7140.jpg
IMG_7139.jpg
 

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