Upcountry's 07' Tacoma - Weekend Warrior Build - Work In Progress
- Thread starter upcountry
- Start date
soonenough
Explorer
The main bolts that are seen hanging down from the frame rails in that picture - are those the ones you swapped out? I was under the impression that the bolts that came with the sliders were flat-head bolts so that they wouldn't protrude below the frame rail and get hung up on obstacles.
upcountry
Explorer
Yes. Without disrespect to Allpro the method of mounting and the hardware provided left me wanting something more.......substantial.
My primary purpose for having "sliders" is as armor for panel damage. The second reason is to provide a hilift point to jack from and the third is as a step to get access to the roof.
The hardware that came we sliders did allow it to mount flush, sort of. But the head of the tapered bolt did stick out still quite a bit. I also moved the holes and used a larger gauge bolt in what I felt was a better location. I did not use any of the hardware especially the lag bolts on the front assembly point. That looked like an insecure way to connect it. Hindsight I would weld it on.
My primary purpose for having "sliders" is as armor for panel damage. The second reason is to provide a hilift point to jack from and the third is as a step to get access to the roof.
The hardware that came we sliders did allow it to mount flush, sort of. But the head of the tapered bolt did stick out still quite a bit. I also moved the holes and used a larger gauge bolt in what I felt was a better location. I did not use any of the hardware especially the lag bolts on the front assembly point. That looked like an insecure way to connect it. Hindsight I would weld it on.
Last edited:
soonenough
Explorer
Gotcha. So did you drill the holes out to allow for larger bolts, or did you just drill holes in a different location? You could look into these to provide some added protection for the bolt heads: Rock Washers
upcountry
Explorer
That is a really interesting product. Thanks for the link! I'm going to look into that. Aside from the mounting hardware the sliders fit very well wjth only minor refinement. I like the product, just didn't like the mounting method.
upcountry
Explorer
Ordered up some new add ons:
1) Arb bull bar bumper (old style) with IPF lights. Looks like this (taken from photo bank online not my pic):
2) OME 886s with some fresh nitrochargers and extended studs so I can keep my 10 mm top spacer ro maintain full 3 inch lift.
3) rear badlands tube bumper with swingate amd fuel can holders. Looks like this (photo from badland bumpers):
4) Safari snorkel from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_2ndgenTaco_snorkel.html
1) Arb bull bar bumper (old style) with IPF lights. Looks like this (taken from photo bank online not my pic):
2) OME 886s with some fresh nitrochargers and extended studs so I can keep my 10 mm top spacer ro maintain full 3 inch lift.
3) rear badlands tube bumper with swingate amd fuel can holders. Looks like this (photo from badland bumpers):
4) Safari snorkel from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_2ndgenTaco_snorkel.html
Last edited:
cruiseroutfit
Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
upcountry
Explorer
Installed ARB Bullbar Fit Kit, painted frame and welds with rustoleum rust converter primer and rustoleum top coat rattle can:
Ordered a 3" to 4" Silicone boot to connect fender side of Intake Resonator (4" OD) to round end of rubber snorkel elbow (3" ID) - I plan to use a 2.5" peice of 3" OD stainless pipe to connect boot to the snorkel elbow:
Just need to find some time to mount the bumper to the fit kit and get the snorkel set. Snow has been good so I've been skiing with my son, plus it's wet outside so hard to find time to paint when it's dry.
Wired winch solenoid for in dash winch control with a trailer connector (pics from my cousin):
Badlands bumper is being finished, ordered new 6 on 5.5 black steel wheel from wheelers offroad for spare with 4.5 backspace.
I hope we get some dry days as I would love to finish working on this!
Ordered a 3" to 4" Silicone boot to connect fender side of Intake Resonator (4" OD) to round end of rubber snorkel elbow (3" ID) - I plan to use a 2.5" peice of 3" OD stainless pipe to connect boot to the snorkel elbow:
Just need to find some time to mount the bumper to the fit kit and get the snorkel set. Snow has been good so I've been skiing with my son, plus it's wet outside so hard to find time to paint when it's dry.
Wired winch solenoid for in dash winch control with a trailer connector (pics from my cousin):
Badlands bumper is being finished, ordered new 6 on 5.5 black steel wheel from wheelers offroad for spare with 4.5 backspace.
I hope we get some dry days as I would love to finish working on this!
I bought one of the first of these 05+ sliders Allpro offered. I communicated all the mounting issues to them and they ignored it, so the problems persist. The problems are all fixable, so there is no excuse. Everybody I have talked to has to buy new hardware. It's a shame to have this type of black mark on an otherwise excellent product. I have more All-Pro products on my truck than any other supplier, so I'm not anti All-Pro. It just is what it is. I bought a box of grade 8 button head bolts for the frame rail attachment. If I were doing it again I would just plan on cutting the front support off and redoing it right. It's only held on by self threading screws. Given the thin thread engagement, that strength is about equal to using grade 8, 1/4" bolts with a nut. On top of that, you can't even get the top two in without an angle head air drill. Most people probably never even install them. These are all things you find out when the brown truck pulls up. None of these issues are shown on the installation video. As far as welding it on, yeah, that is an option but there are problems with that as well. Welding on the box section in the front leaves the back of the frame exposed to corrosion, and no good way to get in there and coat it. Aside from that, I bought a bolt on because I wanted a bolt on. Maybe someday they will get tired of reading posts like this and just fix it.
upcountry
Explorer
I hear you. I ended up ditching all of the mounting hardware and getting some quality grade 8 hardware. I drilled throufh the front mount holes into the boxed section of the frame and was able to get two grade 8 bolts through on rear of front mount on both pass and drivers side. My hand was too big for the other two holes on the front side of the front mount...I couls not get the nuts and wasbers far enough up inside. But at least I have two grade 8 bolts on each side holding the front mounts in place with a direct drill through the frame. This summer I'm going to po them off and paint the frame and re-install. Ill get my wife to stick her smaller hand inside the frame and get 4 bolts per mount in place.....already drilled the holes, just need a small hand. Ill probably use a shorter bolt too since the ones I used were too long but worked fine....it was all I had laying around.
On mine, the lower front hole could be drilled all the way through the box so I used 6" x 1/2" grade 8 bolts with a Gr 8 washer & nut on the back. There was just enough room ahead of the cross member. The lower bolts take more of the stress from a bottom strike on the slider, so getting those beefed up is important. I've always thought it would be cool to have a trained monkey. Little hands, pretty flexible, works for peanuts. All Pro should have one on loan :sombrero:
upcountry
Explorer
My kids are like trained little monkeys and they are not good for much except breaking things, taking everything out of its place and notputting it back, and generally making my life miserable. Although I did just teach my son how to bring me a beer. He even knows ghe difference in the types by label.
Someone will probably call CPS for this pic.
I never thought of drilling all the way through the boxed section of the frame by the crossmember. Interesting idea.
Someone will probably call CPS for this pic.
I never thought of drilling all the way through the boxed section of the frame by the crossmember. Interesting idea.
soonenough
Explorer
Another option would be to use a nutsert / rivnut on those 2 front holes that you can't reach. You'd have to buy the installation tool, or find a local shop that has one. I don't know if you can buy Gr8 rivnuts, but any bolt would be better than nothing.