Vehicle Fire Extinguisher?

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
Bigger is better if you have a choice. The 2.5 lb ABC that is commonly found for automotive applications will only last about 5 seconds. The 5 lb which I prefer to carry will go 10-15 seconds. The 20 lb fire departments carry on the engine 40 seconds to a minute. I have seen many small fires put out with an extinguisher. Usually the driver of a truck , or the law enforcement arriving before we do. a 5# ABC can do a good job on a vehicle fire if applied properly and early.

At the minimum you want a BC rated extinguisher. Although not rated for A fires, they will work on them to some extent. Have you ever tried putting out a class B fire with a BC rated extinguisher? You really have to try hard with CO2 to get that fire out if it is not in a confined space. The ABC will knock it out with half the effort.

Our vehicles do contain combustibles that would be considered class A, however the fire is likely very involved once those are being consumed. Your primary consideration should be petroleum products burning. Much of the newer vehicles are plastic these days. Those items on fire tend to exhibit behavior much like a petroleum fuel fire. Your secondary consideration should probably be electrical or metal fires. While not rated for class D fires, the ABC dry powder extinguisher may be somewhat effective on burning metals like aluminum and magnesium.

Water is a very effective fire fighting tool. I have personally put out a diesel fuel fire on a stack wagon with a gallon of antifreeze. I carry a 1.5 gallon weed sprayer on the back of my truck for washing, but it too could easily be used for a class A fire. Innovation and quick thinking can save the day. I would much rather have a booster line in my hand and be backed up by an engine , but work with what you have ;)

The ABC extinguishers are usually the best choice for several reasons. They are cost effective. Quantity reduces cost and the ABC is the most common as it is able to be used in a business. They leave a powder coating that smothers the fire and keeps it smothered. Messy? Yes. Corrosive? Probably. That is more of a concern in an aircraft application where the aluminum structural parts are easily damaged and hard to clean. They are very effective. The mess can be cleaned up or the vehicle replaced. You just want the fire out.
The ABC extinguishers tend to be lighter when compared to a BC rated CO2 extinguisher and a smaller package for a comparable application.

The Halon are nice, there is no doubt, but the price difference is huge. Personally I would rather pay 75% less and have twice as many extinguishers.

All those that are recommending metal valves over the plastic...:victory: A very good choice. Not only for the durability, but the plastic valve may not be serviceable. Most service companies will not touch them.

Have you ever had a class on fire extinguishers? Did you know as an employee of a business OSHA requires that you be trained to use them? You annual maintence company can provide this for you and your employees. If you have not taken one it is well worth the time. many will do a hands on exercise that will give you the opportunity to try out several different kinds of fires and extinguishers.

All this talk is great! While we are on the subject why not go take a look at that extinguisher. Make sure the pin is in place, the gauge reads in the green, all parts are in place including an annual inspection tag. Then invert it and give it a few swats to the bottom only with a plastic deadblow hammer or rubber mallet. This loosens the powder which will cake while it sits. Shake it and make sure all the powder is loose and flowing. It may take several blows to get it all loosened up.
Vehicle applications are the worst as the vibration really settles the media. Ideally this should be done at the very least annually in a static mounted application. More frequently in and automotive application.
 
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SunTzuNephew

Explorer
Wow. So this $19 Kidde 10 B:C is better than a $150 Halguard? http://www.lowes.com/pd_null_?productId=3010000

Depends. That Kidde (which, btw, isn't much of an extinguisher, being made mostly of plastic) has been proven to extinguish a 10 sq foot oil fire by a UL certified testing lab. Thats what the 10B rating means. I don't buy extinguishers based on price, or on weight of fill - I buy on the basis of their demonstrated ability to extinguish fires (the UL rating) and then, their extinguishing agent (in case I have special conditions).

A 20B rated extinguisher will do a 20 sq foot fire, etc. Actually those numbers are downrated because the guy who does the tests gets really good at putting the fires out - iirc the ratings numbers are decreased by 60%?

The 3A:40B:C Amerex extinguishers I carry and have around the house will do a 3 sq foot class A, and a 40 sq foot class b, and cost around $60. (shop around) http://www.safetysupercenter.com/Amerex-5lb-ABC-Fire-Extinguisher-w-Wall-Bracket-p/b402.htm I also have a 20# Amerex (20A:120B:C) in the back of the truck, and in the garage.

They are not exactly the most expensive, just demonstrated to be more effective, in independent testing. They also are not marketed as automotive accessories, to drive the price up.

Halguard type extinguishers are expensive, and only moderately effective. Their advantage is that the extinguishing agent doesn't leave a residue around that is dangerous for electronic components, and isn't noxious to the people in the room, and doesn't come out of the extinguisher at very cold temps to cold-shock hot electronics. I have a halotron (similar) extinguisher in my office at home (near the computers), and in the battery room where my inverters are - but I also have more effective extinguishers around in case I need them. BTW, the various halguard type extinguishing agents don't stay around to keep the fire out, foam and powder do: They even form a layer over flammable liquids to keep the air, and fire, out.

In a car, when it starts burning, you need to get it out RFN, or it will spread. A 10B rating probably won't do much, and even a 120B rating isn't going to save the vehicle if it's fully involved. If I come across a vehicle fire on the road, all I'm doing with my extinguishers (after I call for help) is making sure that people get out of the involved car, even with a 20#, 120B rated extinguisher I'm not popping the hood and trying to fight it (the backdraft that would likely occur would knock me on my rear, and just make the fire spread). I might (once the people were safe) try shooting some extinguisher through the grill and up the wheel wells, but the guys in the big trucks have better stuff than I, and they don't have to pay to get it replaced, either.

The last thing I'll worry about is damaging a radio, and I'm sure as hell not going to stay in the car while fighting the fire so the breathability features of halguard are minimal. The extinguishers are there to keep small fires small, so I can get people out of danger and perhaps save my stuff. I have insurance to replace the vehicle if it burns.
 

SunTzuNephew

Explorer
By the way, getting some training in using fire extinguishers is a good idea.

Check with the local FD, consider taking CERT training, or find a OSHA instructor.
 

SunTzuNephew

Explorer
Its not listed on my little one. It is UL listed, DOT 2Q but not USGC.

Interesting to see how the pit crews fight fires. 2.5 gal afff (or similar) extinguishers plus five gallon buckets.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOi3n9XeEzw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6Z3hUQDZu0

Contrast that to the use of powder and CO2 in this fire
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QUAX0JXmuo

It says it's UL listed, but doesn't give a rating in the ABC format?

DOT2Q is a pressure vessel rating (not a fire extinguisher rating), and not a particularly good one for a vehicle fire extinguisher: http://www.chemaxx.com/aerosol12b.htm

At least one of my extinguishers says it's pressure tested to 585 psi, vs. the 270 minimum burst requirements for DOT2Q... So, those are non UL rated (too small for even a 1 rating?) and in the same quality pressure container as a can of spray paint?


AFFF is great for liquid fuel fires, especially when there may be people involved: It both cools the flames (on the person) and the foam creates a barrier to re-ignition over the fuel.

But, a 2 1/2 gal AFFF extinguisher is bigger than most want to carry, has environmental and dimensional issues for storage, and is a lot more expensive than most want to buy.
 
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craig333

Expedition Leader
Not too impressed with the pin system on the 16 oz either. Why I have a larger size coming. Plus the larger sizes are refillable at home.


1.5 and 2.5 Gallon extinguishers. These units have a large volume with the capability of extinguishing very significant fires. They should be charged to 125 PSI.

Dimensions:
*
1.5 Gallon: 7 inch diameter, 19 inches tall
*
2.5 Gallon: 7 inch diameter, 24.5 inches tall

1- to 4-Liter extinguishers. These units have less volume than the 1.5 and 2.5 gallon extinguishers, but because they are charged to 175 PSI, coupled with the extreme fire suppression capacity of Cold Fire®, they have great capability for fighting many fires that the RV owner might encounter. They are far superior to dry chemical extinguishers and don't leave any of the mess, or cause corrosion problems. Their compact size makes them ideal for most RV applications.

Dimensions:
*
1 Liter: 3.5 inch diameter, 13.5 inches tall
*
2 Liter: 4.5 inches diameter, 15.5 inches tall
*
3 Liter: 5.0 inches diameter, 18.5 inches tall
*
4 Liter: 5.5 inches diameter, 19.5 inches tall


I don't pack my 2.5 gal very often. Another consideration is wildland fires. A dry chem isn't going to do much at all if it spreads outside the vehicle.

In the summer I carry a 5 gal backpump in the Jeep (and no I don't expect normal people to carry one, carryover from my CDF days) with enough fireade to act as a wetting agent.

I'm not concerned with class C fires. 12 volts isn't going to hurt me and if I haven't turned the ignition off nothing short of a fire engine is going to help me.

Foam may not be what you want if you're legally mandated to carry an extinguisher with a certain rating.

One of my primary concerns is the tendency of dry chem to pack. I don't care if you just serviced it home. Is it still going to function after twenty miles of washboard road? Don't have that concern with foam.

You're right though, the price is a problem for most people.
 
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SunTzuNephew

Explorer
Not too impressed with the pin system either. Why I have a larger size coming. Plus the larger sizes are refillable.

1.5 and 2.5 Gallon extinguishers. These units have a large volume with the capability of extinguishing very significant fires. They should be charged to 125 PSI.

Dimensions:

*

1.5 Gallon: 7 inch diameter, 19 inches tall
*

2.5 Gallon: 7 inch diameter, 24.5 inches tall







1- to 4-Liter extinguishers. These units have less volume than the 1.5 and 2.5 gallon extinguishers, but because they are charged to 175 PSI, coupled with the extreme fire suppression capacity of Cold Fire®, they have great capability for fighting many fires that the RV owner might encounter. They are far superior to dry chemical extinguishers and don't leave any of the mess, or cause corrosion problems. Their compact size makes them ideal for most RV applications.

Dimensions:

*

1 Liter: 3.5 inch diameter, 13.5 inches tall
*

2 Liter: 4.5 inches diameter, 15.5 inches tall
*

3 Liter: 5.0 inches diameter, 18.5 inches tall
*

4 Liter: 5.5 inches diameter, 19.5 inches tall


I don't pack my 2.5 gal very often. Another consideration is wildland fires. A dry chem isn't going to do much at all if it spreads outside the vehicle.

In the summer I carry a 5 gal backpump in the Jeep (and no I don't expect normal people to carry one, carryover from my CDF days) with enough fireade to act as a wetting agent.

I'm not concerned with class C fires. 12 volts isn't going to hurt me and if I haven't turned the ignition off nothing short of a fire engine is going to help me.

Foam may not be what you want if you're legally mandated to carry an extinguisher with a certain rating.

One of my primary concerns is the tendency of dry chem to pack. I don't care if you just serviced it home. Is it still going to function after twenty miles of washboard road? Don't have that concern with foam.

I shake my extinguishers every month - and if you're careful about it, you can feel the powder moving in the bottle....plus, I've actually tried a few that have been abused in vehicles (in fire prevention / fighting classes when I taught basic search and rescue). So, I'm not too worried.

Where did you work for CDF? I was at Grass Valley, back in the dawn of time (we watched Roy and Johnny, first run)...
 

craig333

Expedition Leader
Emergency? That was a great show. Bout as close as you can come. You ever have the pleasure of sleeping in a paper sleeping bag?

I worked in Lassen/Modoc for five seasons. One at hat creek and one at Westwood. Rest up at the
FS at Bieber. Famous for the size of the mosquitoes.
 
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SunTzuNephew

Explorer
Emergency? That was a great show. Bout as close as you can come. You ever have the pleasure of sleeping in a paper sleeping bag?

I worked in Lassen/Modoc for five seasons. One at hat creek and one at Westwood. Rest up at the
FS at Bieber. Famous for the size of the mosquitoes.


Pleasure? Yeah, right....
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
I'm in the process of getting rid of all my dry chem extinguishers and going with these type

http://www.macthefireguy.com/fire_safety_products.htm

http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/Handheld Fire Extinguishers.htm

Other than the very smallest size they're refillable at home too.

Gas is not good in a decent wind nor does it remove heat.

I just bought the 2 liter version from the link above. (same size as a 5lb abc) it should arrive in a few days. Bought a couple extra bottles of the Coldfire concentrate too. I have a several of the small 16oz fireade extinguishers, one in every car too. The 2.5 gallon will get some Coldfire and will stay in the Garage. The 1.5 gallon class K ( fine spray nozzle ) Not sure where it will go, need to make a mount if goes mobile.

Why so many water type extinguisher you wonder?
One morning as co worker and I went for a walk, a car in the parking lot smell ed a bit hot as we walked by. I then noticed smoke and then fire.:Wow1: We have on site security and I ran in and told them to call the fire dept. They came out with 4 5lb ABC extinguisher and tried to put it out, no luck. Security from the other building showed up with a pickup truck full of ABC extinguishers ( maybe 10) and even with 4 being sprayed all at once under the hood the fire started back up after about a minute. The fire dept showed up and put the fire out. You can see all the white powder on the car and ground in the pic.

That's why I carry water type fire extinguishers as they work. The additives make them work on class B fires too. Class C, as noted in the post are really class A fire as its the insulation that is burning.
 

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craig333

Expedition Leader
A fire extinguisher is useless unless you can get to it quickly so I ditched my old setup for one of these.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10510-Release-Extinguisher-Bracket/dp/B003BZLHRQ%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAJUGTHVYJQBVOSLCQ%26tag%3Dfiresafe0a-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB003BZLHRQ"]Amazon.com: Allstar ALL10510 2.5 lb Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Bracket: Automotive[/ame]
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
I like those designs as they look easy to reproduce in my garage.

Here's a couple pics of one's that would not take to long to make.
Once it arrives I will get busy. I like the 3 band version for the bigger ext.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=801771&highlight=fire+extinguisher.

attachment.php


and here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=891176&highlight=fire+extinguisher


attachment.php
 

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