Vehicle Fire Extinguisher?

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
Those are nice. My buddy 'Scratch' also builds one similar.

I'm fabbing my own for the Jeeps right now, as the silly plastic holders they come with, just don't hold up on rough roads/trails.
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
That looks nice, but you would need to check it to make sure its works every now and then as the latch could rust up. You could add silicone grease to make sure that don't happen. I like the pin idea, but a bigger loop that I can put my fingers into would be nice. Maybe the military T handle type where you depress the center push button with your thumb.

Well the 2 liter cold fire ext arrived and I did some testing with it. Looks to you have about a 25-27 second discharge time, which is good for the small size. :victory: The nozzle is a swirl type, which creates a cone shaped pattern. Good for creating more of a foaming spray with cold fire additive. I removed the stock nozzle and its standard 1/4'' pipe thread. I have a straight nozzle to try out too. The stock nozzle limits the range to under 10' But were only talking 2 quarts here.
 

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ducktapeguy

Adventurer
Thanks for the links, I think I'm going to order some of that Cold Fire stuff today. I'm searching for a replacement vehicle fire extinguisher after having to use mine yesterday on some guys car. I found out that 2 5lb dry chemical fire extinguishers aren't very effective, all it will do is blow the flames around, but once it runs out (and it runs out quick) you're stuck watching everything burn.

I'm going to pick up a 2.5 gallon water extinguisher and add some cold fire additive to it. I'm still going to carry a dry chem one as a backup, but I'll probably upgrade to a larger size.

ScoutII,

Does that cold Fire stuff cause the water to foam up? Or does it only foam with a cone nozzle?
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
If you add the Cold fire in the the ext first and then the water it will foam up and it will be hard to get all the water in, so its a combination of the nozzle and naturally foamy. It's not like AFFF which is used at the airport. Thats the super foaming stuff that make foam several feet deep.
Talking with Jim at RV Safety systems, he said the regular nozzle works fine too.

I have only tested it with water and not with the Coldfire additive.
I'm still trying to figure out just how to simulate a car fire for testing.
Any ideas?
Ducttapeguy what was burning on the car/truck?
 

ducktapeguy

Adventurer
Thanks for the responses.

I found some interesting info when looking at the different types of fire extinguishers. One mentions the use of adding liquid soap for the water type fire extinguishers. It sounds like it makes the water type extinguishers more effective, but maybe not as good as the specialty additive. But it's cheap enough to practice with around a campfire without costing a lot of money.

http://www.firehouse.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45157

ScoutII,

It was an engine fire on a small car (I think it might have been a 2 door chrysler something similar). I happened to be driving a fairly busy street when I saw the car pulled to the side of the road with smoke coming from under the hood. I got out and grabbed the small extinguisher in the back of my car, and another lady stopped and also offered her extinguisher. But 2 small dry chemical extinguishers did almost nothing to the fire except delay it slightly. When the extinguishers ran out we were basically helpless and could only watch as it continued burning. I wish I hadn't taken out the second extinguisher that I used to carry in my car. The good news is nobody was in any danger, the fire department had already been called and a policeman was already on the scene, but watching a car go up in flames and all you can do is watch sucks.

I am also going to carry some heavy leather gloves right next to the extinguisher. As we're trying to put it out, we really couldn't get to the source of the fire under the hood because it was too hot. I think if we were able to lift the hood just a few inches, enough to spray the extinguisher in there, it would have helped a lot. Trying to spray through the radiator or hood vents didn't seem to be very effective.

Anyone have any tips for putting out a vehicle fire? I've already It's not something that I can practice very much, and I'd rather learn now than have to find out something doesn't work when I need to do it.
 

ScoutII

Adventurer
I am also going to carry some heavy leather gloves right next to the extinguisher. As we're trying to put it out, we really couldn't get to the source of the fire under the hood because it was too hot. I think if we were able to lift the hood just a few inches, enough to spray the extinguisher in there, it would have helped a lot. Trying to spray through the radiator or hood vents didn't seem to be very effective.

Anyone have any tips for putting out a vehicle fire? I've already It's not something that I can practice very much, and I'd rather learn now than have to find out something doesn't work when I need to do it.

Good tip on gloves stored next to extinguisher.
Dish soap reduces the surface tension of water and will help, but not like the specialty chemicals. Plus that only works on class A fires. Most car fires involve some type oil or fuel or dripping burning plastic.


Found a site that has the Fireaid2000 on sale here http://www.campingsurvival.com/fi2016ozfiex.htmlhttp://www.campingsurvival.com/fi2016ozfiex.html $12.95 for a 16 oz extinguisher.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssH4gxBXJU0"]YouTube - FireAde Extinguisher[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_5CUcF_UXE"]YouTube - Foam Extinguisher[/ame]


You are correct, you need to hit the fire at the source. Here what I'm going to get from Harbor Freight Tools to keep next to the extinguisher. $19.95
You can poke a hole in the hood and get at the source. If your 10 miles off the beaten path and your rigs on fire, a small hole in the hood is better then walking out. :coffeedrink:

image_6981.jpg
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
... If your 10 miles off the beaten path and your rigs on fire, a small hole in the hood is better then walking out.
If you are to the point of needing to punch "a small hole" in the hood, you better get ready to walk. An axe makes lots of work out of trying to get to an engine fire. The first reaction should be to try the hood release. Then shoot under the hood with the safety catch still holding the hood down, until it can be opened safely.
Shooting up from under the wheel wells is a better choice if the hood is closed and can not be opened easily. It is likely to be a lost battle if the hood won't open as it will be tough to get to the seed.

The battle can be won by acting quickly with an adequately sized and correct type extinguisher applied properly. Remember to protect yourself first. The vehicle can be replaced. Stay clear of lift cylinders that are under flame impingement. Your garments may not be flame resistant, and burns are no fun at all. If in doubt, back off.
 

overlander

Expedition Leader
I am also going to carry some heavy leather gloves right next to the extinguisher. As we're trying to put it out, we really couldn't get to the source of the fire under the hood because it was too hot. I think if we were able to lift the hood just a few inches, enough to spray the extinguisher in there, it would have helped a lot. Trying to spray through the radiator or hood vents didn't seem to be very effective.

Anyone have any tips for putting out a vehicle fire? I've already It's not something that I can practice very much, and I'd rather learn now than have to find out something doesn't work when I need to do it.

I have personal experience with engine fires. Back when I had my CJ7, I was driving out in the AZ desert on the highway for the beginning of an off road excursion, when I started getting smoke coming from my hood, increasing as I drove. After noticing it, i begin to slow down and pull over, with the smoke increasing. As I began my deceleration, i realized what was happening and began to put my game plan together, thinking about where my extinguisher was AND my leather winch gloves. (lesson #1 - have a standardized load plan and know where things are) I pulled over and immediately grabbed the 2.5LB dry extinguisher, and then put on my gloves, jumped out and unlatched the hood. The hood was really starting to get hot, but I was able to get it open quickly before it became unbearable thanks to the leather gloves (lesson #2 - always have heavy gloves handy for fire response - you'll never react fast enough to a vehicle fire for bare hands). once the hood was up, there was a full fire burning on top of my engine. I immediately started dousing the fire with chemical and it QUICKLY went out. (lesson #3 - the only way to douse an engine compartment fire is to get the hood open. That is where the oil and fuel lines are, and the ignition sources are. Once rubber lines start burning, liquid fuel sources pool on the top of the engine, and extinguishers can never put out those fires from below).

The engine and vehicle was saved, although obviously I had to be towed back. What happened was the copper oil line that led from my oil filter head to my mechanical oil pressure gauge ruptured (lesson #4 - mechanical oil pressure gauges SUCK!), shooting oil all over the right side exhaust manifold and igniting. I was able to actually go from highway speeds to fire out quick enough before the fuel lines ruptured, so I was lucky. Without both the gloves and extinguisher, I would have lost the vehicle.

I have added the external military latches to the hood/bonnet of my 110 now, to aid in opening the bonnet quickly for emergency responses. I also fully intend to put in two little hatches (around 4"x4") on the bonnet with one on each side of the engine, so that in the event of a fire, i can just lift the latch and stick the extinguisher nozzle in, hitting the ground zero for any potential fire sources.

Putting out a fire on an expo vehicle is even more important than a normal car, as expo vehicles tend to get remote, and if it gets out of control, you can lose all your survival supplies (lesson #5 - finish that bug-out bag and keep it handy near a door!)
 
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ScoutII

Adventurer
Good stuff Overland. :sombrero:

Henry, I don't advocate anybody put out a "car fire" they happen on.
The ax has a pointed end, a claw hammer would work too. Might be a bad idea, but the 2 car fires I watched the cable must have melted as they could not get the hood latch to release.

Were leaving in a couple weeks and just wanted to be more preparded.
Maybe later will look into the underhood mounted system.

Overland list
(lesson #1 - have a standardized load plan and know where things are)
(lesson #2 - always have heavy gloves handy for fire response - you'll never react fast enough to a vehicle fire for bare
hands).
(lesson #3 - the only way to douse an engine compartment fire is to get the hood open. That is where the oil and fuel lines
are, and the ignition sources are. Once rubber lines start burning, liquid fuel sources pool on the top of the
engine, and extinguishers can never put out those fires from below).

(lesson #4 - mechanical oil pressure gauges suck)
(lesson #5 - finish that bug-out bag and keep it handy near a door!)


Edit: cut and paste from a fire site
The Patented Fyrestick, is the world's leading piercing nozzle. Firefighters use it to punch through a wall, ceiling or car hood and then introduce a mist of water into an enclosed space. When the spray hits the superheated space, it is instantly converted into steam, depriving the fire of oxygen, dramatically lowering the temperature and forcing water into every inch of space.
 
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Wyowanderer

Explorer
I shake my extinguishers every month - and if you're careful about it, you can feel the powder moving in the bottle....plus, I've actually tried a few that have been abused in vehicles (in fire prevention / fighting classes when I taught basic search and rescue). So, I'm not too worried.

Good advice. I hold mine to my ear and I can hear the powder fall. When none has fallen for a minute or so, I put it back.
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
...
The ax has a pointed end, a claw hammer would work too. Might be a bad idea, but the 2 car fires I watched the cable must have melted as they could not get the hood latch to release...
You are right. The cable is useless pretty quickly many times. Even with a Halligan bar and a sledge , opening a hood can be a real chore. If the latch doesn't pop easily, we usually jamb the tool in from the side and bend the hood upward enough to spray inside. Cutting the sheetmetal of the hood with a Hotsaw comes a close second. Two cuts and you have a flap to open. All that is old school now, but we still practice it for when we don't have the "right tool".
Edit: cut and paste from a fire site
The Patented Fyrestick, is the world’s leading piercing nozzle...
We have the Flamefighter 90 degree piercing nozzles for vehicles. You swing it like an axe and it punches through the hood, or a wall. You can also drive it through with a sledge hammer, but most of the hoods are pretty thin and it goes right through if you miss the bracing. Open the bail and you flood the compartment. Works great. It can get a little exciting if metal is burning though.
 

craig333

Expedition Leader
Another to thing to consider is your extinguishing agents impact on humans. You're trapped inside a vehicle (I know, won't ever happen to people who travel off road) and breathing smoke. Its hot, maybe getting burned, someone sets off a dry chem in the cab. Now you're also breathing a cloud of dry chem and its sure not what you want on your burns.

Same scenario but a water based extinguishing agent. Now you can not only breathe but you're cooled down. Non toxic so no problem with burns.

Theres a reason race crews use some type of afff. Look at this [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ_UufZ0eZk"]YouTube - Indy Car Driver Rick Mears Ignited In Flames![/ame]
looks like co2 and dry chem, vs. coldfire response
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6Z3hUQDZu0"]YouTube - Indy 500 Fire put out with Cold Fire[/ame]
where the driver manages to keep on driving.

Which would you want?
 

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