M416 hybrid (updated w lots O' Pics)

preacherman

Explorer
M416 hybrid (updated rebuild v 3.0!)

(Updated in post #36 with version 3.0!)

I have been threatening to build a trailer for a while when this week I finially found a reason. This week I acquired a m416 tub that is solid and ready to become a trailer. I have the tub, axles, leaf springs and hangers but nothing else. Considering I paid $96 I'm not complaining about the little detail that I am missing a frame...

I am not worried about finding an original frame bc I like the idea of building my frame to my measurements and desires. This will allow me to do things like make a longer front section for a trailer tongue box or a max coulpler as well as add features i want. This will also let me save time by not having to hunt down an old frame.

So my first question on this build is thus...if building an m416 frame from scratch what would you use. I am thinking 2x2 square tubing. I want it to be heavy enough to withstand being used but light enough to pull behind a lifted jeep.

Also does anyone have exact measurements of an 416 frame? I could use that to start from.
 
Last edited:

bob

Adventurer
2x2 120 wall should be more than enough for your build. Looking forward to seeing it develop. Great buy!!!!!
 

socaljeeper

Adventurer
I think most off road trailer manufactures go with 2"x3"x.120 for thier frames. I used 2"x3" for my trailer. It is plenty strong and it gives you and extra inch of room for whatever. Think about what accersories you will be putting on the trailer like racks, lighting, spare tire and how they will attach.
 

preacherman

Explorer
The more I think about it the more I am leaning towards 2x3. It looks like the original steel used was 2x3. 2x3 would also better accommodate some of the plans I have for it.
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
The original M416 frame is made from a 2x3 "C" channel, instead of 'box' tube.

I think you would be better off using the 2x3 box style tube like you say. It will be stronger, and accommodate any additions, like a rear receiver for bike racks, etc.

The extra weight will be down low, so the COG shouldn't be effected very much.
 

preacherman

Explorer
Today I was able to get alot done on the trailer. The trailer was solid (no rust) but does have some body damage and some issues. Here are some pics from today. (sorry for the crappy cell phone pics, I didn't want to wast time getting the good camera out)

The body;

db65df14.jpg


The rust free bottom

f81d3356.jpg


The main problem was a bent top rail on the passenger side. To show how bent it is I placed a piece of wood on it.

df66c5f7.jpg


I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how I wanted to bend it back. I beat it with a hammer for awhile and then got smart. I used some pipe clamps and my hi-lift to slowly bend it back. The hi-lift worked great as a clamp with the clamp attachment.

a581f285.jpg


After a few hours of bending and body work ( I also spend some time working over small dents) I moved on to cutting out the tailgate section. I am actually going to have to use the front as the back and the back as the front. The back of the trailer is pristine and the front is trashed, so I flipped it and cut the front out. I am going to be building a tailgate from scratch and it just made more since to cut out the trashed section. I like the data plate on the front anyhow.

9c97b5e2.jpg


That was as far as I got today. I may start welding up the frame tomorrow. I went with 2x3 .120 wall for the frame. I have most of it cut out already (sorry no pics yet).

I have some big plans for this trailer and I am excited to get it started. I will try to keep updates...up to date :)
 

preacherman

Explorer
I'm working on the frame today and ran into a question. Does anyone know the location measurements of the spring perches? I think I know the axle center line but I need the measurments for where the spring Perches are located. I.e. how far apart and how far back.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
190,688
Messages
2,930,245
Members
234,424
Latest member
DFWSFO
Top