LR3 roof rack vs rear tire carrier question

[DVD]

Had my LR3 for almost a yr, and realizing that some outside carrying capability would be a nice addition. The immediate requirement is a solution for carrying extra gas (and spare tire and hi-lift and etc.). A roof rack is the obvious, probably most cost-effective and practical solution.
But, we camp a lot and sleep in the back of the lr3. My wife especially likes the sense of sleeping under the stars with the 3 big roof windows. I'm worried that a roof rack would make it feel like San Quentin. That's why I'm considering that a rear bumper/tire carrier would have benefits of:
* getting (full size spare) tire out from underneath
* place to hang a couple jerry cans for longer trips
* also hang a hi-lift (future planning, as I don't have sliders nor hi-lift at present)
* keep center of gravity lower (not a huge deal, but with our shelf roads and washouts in AZ trails, not entirely inconsequential)
* maybe come up with some solution for a water carrier under the vehicle (where spare was).
* keep the open feeling of sunroofs.

Can anybody with a roof rack comment on how it affects the sense of openness, obscuring the "panorama roofs" or whatever they call it on LR3s? Maybe the rack bars aren't such a big deal and you'd see right through them. I'm leaning towards baja rack, so that would be most pertinent.

Thanks!

 

[perkj]

I have both the Baja Rack roof rack and a custom rear tire swing that i built. The first thing to note is that a rear tire swing alone isn't going to yield much in the way of extra carrying capacity (i.e. the tire plus whatever you can fit in a trash-a-roo) unless you specifically design the swing arm to be able to accommodate holding jerry cans. You'd need to really design a stout swing arm to accommodate the weight of a tire plus the weight of one or two FULL jerry cans....this amount of weight will put a lot of weight on the spindle. Over time I would suspect you'd snap/fracture the spindle with that much weight and shacking from going off road. You'd really want to look into the Kaymar bumper which has two swing arms...one for the tire and then another for jerry cans. Keep in mind that bumper with the dual arm option is $$$$. Below is a couple pictures of my swing arm with a bolt jerry can mount I added...I've opt'ed not to use it yet due to the weight I talked about above as the last thing I'd want is to be on a trail or the highway and have the spindle snap the whole arm go flying off. My spindle is 1 1/2" 4140 Chromoly Steel and probably good for over 1700 lbs static weight, but I'd rather play is safe with results the jarring from offroading may have on it.

As for the baja rack, I personally don't think it obstructs the view much at all. Yes you can see the cross bars but they are thin enough and spaced far enough apart IMO to still give you a good view. But keep in mind, that once you start putting stuff up there the view is gone, so unless you plan to pull everything off the rack before you go to sleep, you won't be "sleeping under the stars" in the LR3.

 

[JAK]

Well, I can say that the Baja Rack basically covers the glass. While I can open the sunroof, there is no point. Some racks even prevent you from opening the sunroof. By the time we load up the LR3, I forget that the roof is entirely glass. I find that the sense of openness on the LR3 comes from the sheer size of the windows all the way around. This has always been a Land Rover design feature. It makes seeing the surroundings easier I guess. I leave the sunshades open in the rear to let in a little more light. Putting a full size spare on the roof is no easy task. Even lifting into place on my rear carrier is a chore by myself. If you go with a roof rack, you'll need a ladder. Sliders with a step help when loading the rack as well. Ultimately I think there is a good reason to have both the rack and the bumper. Check out the Portal's LR4 project for the Kaymar bumper. Outback Proven is bringing them in stateside.

The rack will be your lowest cost of entry and honestly the most versatile. As for sleeping under the stars, I see two solutions, glow in the dark stickers or actually sleeping outside. Arizona might be a little cold right now though.

 

[rcharrette]

Yakima system

I have a Yakima system with a load warrior basket and the extension ( for extra capacity). The basket itself can hold a ton of stuff, then I have a hi-lift and shovel mount on it. As was said before, anything off the back will have no where near the capacity of a roof rack. And if you were to put some sort of tray off the hitch then it would severely limit your 4x4 ability and you probably bang it up pretty quickly.

 

[DVD]

Thanks for the helpful replies. It reminds me of the old truism: "everything is a trade-off."
The Kaymar dual swing bumper (with spare and jerry can swings) would be optimal, but I don't think I can justify the extra expense (heck, I just can't afford it.) Thanks for the consideration about overloading the swing arm. Also, it would probably add 5 min to my travel time twice a week when I load hockey gear into the back.
A roof rack detracts from "openness" and adds temptation to compromise stability by putting too much weight up high. But it's cheaper and in many ways more practical. In terms of overall vehicle aesthetics, I'd like the look and the kind of statement that I'm using the vehicle for wheeling - not as a yuppie-mobile. For camping, I'll just have to plan more non-bear-area trips, where we usually sleep with heads toward rear and liftgate open. Or go with the advice to add stickers . I'm pretty sure that this I'll go w/ a roof rack initially. As suggested, I can add a bumper/tire carrier later. Oh, and I think the ladder looks really cool!
I already considered a yakima/thule solution, but by the time I buy the rails, moab rack, and various additions, it's not too much savings over a custom built rack.
Thanks again.

 

[unseenone]

While my choice is the Baja rack for quality as well as functionality one thing to consider is if you will leave it mounted all the time, or not. My car won't clear the garage at low suspension height with the rack mounted. As a result, it is stored except when used.

 

[rover4x4]

I personally believe there is absolutely no reason to put a tire on top of a vehicle, unless of course you drive a Jeep.

 

[Scott Brady]

In general, you want to avoid heavy roof loads, although an empty rack is acceptable and useful for hauling firewood short distances or to load with equipment should you have a disabled vehicle in your convoy. A tire and wheel can easily weigh 60+ pounds and each can of fuel will weigh 40.5 pounds, plus the weight of the mount.

I prefer the spare on a rear swing-out, which can also accommodate a few cans of fuel. However, when I carry fuel cans, I keep them inside the vehicle and as low as possible behind the front seats.

 

[AFSOC]

However, when I carry fuel cans, I keep them inside the vehicle and as low as possible behind the front seats.

Do you have any photos of that, I'd like to see how they're mounted? Which rigs do you do that with?

 

[digitaldelay]

How necessary is it to relocate the spare? The newer LR/RR's appear to have them mounted at an angle to maintain departure angle. It would be nice to keep that weight as low as possible.

In general, you want to avoid heavy roof loads, although an empty rack is acceptable and useful for hauling firewood short distances or to load with equipment should you have a disabled vehicle in your convoy. A tire and wheel can easily weigh 60+ pounds and each can of fuel will weigh 40.5 pounds, plus the weight of the mount.

I prefer the spare on a rear swing-out, which can also accommodate a few cans of fuel. However, when I carry fuel cans, I keep them inside the vehicle and as low as possible behind the front seats.

I agree that long-term roof loads are best avoided.

Do you have any photos of that, I'd like to see how they're mounted? Which rigs do you do that with?

I am also interested in this. I would like to be able to carry fuel inside but I always thought this was a no-no.

Jason

 

[PhyrraM]

How necessary is it to relocate the spare? The newer LR/RR's appear to have them mounted at an angle to maintain departure angle. It would be nice to keep that weight as low as possible......

I don't think it's about clearance, but about access to the spare if the truck is in a 'bad' spot.

 

[JAK]

I don't think it's about clearance, but about access to the spare if the truck is in a 'bad' spot.

Larger size tires are difficult to fit in that location as well.

 

[JAK]

In general, you want to avoid heavy roof loads, although an empty rack is acceptable and useful for hauling firewood short distances or to load with equipment should you have a disabled vehicle in your convoy. A tire and wheel can easily weigh 60+ pounds and each can of fuel will weigh 40.5 pounds, plus the weight of the mount.

I prefer the spare on a rear swing-out, which can also accommodate a few cans of fuel. However, when I carry fuel cans, I keep them inside the vehicle and as low as possible behind the front seats.

View attachment 134331

I have read the Overland Journal article regarding roof racks and agree and disagree. I believe that Land Rover rates roof loads based on the vehicles true capability, not just level driving. The LR3/4 actually have a pretty low CG (center of gravity) compared to other vehicles out there. What really drives this is the substantial mass of the LR3/4. As I recall when loaded you said you were pushing 7000 pounds. Close to 6000 of that is the vehicle alone in stock form. Adding 250 pounds to rough changes the CG by about 8%. This won't tip anyone over but all said it would be prudent to drive slower. It also does not take much to get to 250 pounds. My rack and tent get me to 200. Roof loads should be centered as best front to back and side to side between the wheels. Tires should be underneath or on the back. Gas should be on the back. I would personally never carry gas inside the vehicle.

Land Rover used their expedition rack which is only rated at something like 120 pounds to carry a spare tire and four gas cans. This puts the weight on the roof at close to 250 pounds.

http://blog.landrover.com/news/the-journey-of-discovery-reaches-china-2-3899.html#axzz2E84G1mJ0

Unless your doing some serious off camber, hill climbs or are twitchy with the brake pedal, using a roof rack to carry gear while overlanding is a practical and safe thing to do. Like anything though too much of a good thing and you end up on your side.

One thing I have learned from the Journal, friends and this site is that when traveling I need to come up with a plan. If my vehicle cannot execute my plan, I need to change it or modify the LR3. I tend to modify the truck more often then not and stick to the plan, otherwise I might as well drive a Prius and go only where the paved road leads.

 

[xray132]

Keep it down low

It’s all based on your needs. I don’t drive slow and the LR3 has enough body roll so I want to keep the weight low. I’m getting too old to be lifting all that on and off the roof. Been there done that. Rack it on the spare.

 

[digitaldelay]

I have read the Overland Journal article regarding roof racks and agree and disagree. I believe that Land Rover rates roof loads based on the vehicles true capability, not just level driving. The LR3/4 actually have a pretty low CG (center of gravity) compared to other vehicles out there. What really drives this is the substantial mass of the LR3/4. As I recall when loaded you said you were pushing 7000 pounds. Close to 6000 of that is the vehicle alone in stock form. Adding 250 pounds to rough changes the CG by about 8%. This won't tip anyone over but all said it would be prudent to drive slower. It also does not take much to get to 250 pounds. My rack and tent get me to 200. Roof loads should be centered as best front to back and side to side between the wheels. Tires should be underneath or on the back. Gas should be on the back. I would personally never carry gas inside the vehicle.

Land Rover used their expedition rack which is only rated at something like 120 pounds to carry a spare tire and four gas cans. This puts the weight on the roof at close to 250 pounds.

http://blog.landrover.com/news/the-journey-of-discovery-reaches-china-2-3899.html#axzz2E84G1mJ0

Unless your doing some serious off camber, hill climbs or are twitchy with the brake pedal, using a roof rack to carry gear while overlanding is a practical and safe thing to do. Like anything though too much of a good thing and you end up on your side.

One thing I have learned from the Journal, friends and this site is that when traveling I need to come up with a plan. If my vehicle cannot execute my plan, I need to change it or modify the LR3. I tend to modify the truck more often then not and stick to the plan, otherwise I might as well drive a Prius and go only where the paved road leads.

Imagine having to dodge something on the Interstate doing 75mph, or 80 in Utah. :Wow1: With an empty roof and the spare in it's factory location, the ESP will probably keep the shiny side up. With a bunch of gas or a RTT up top, you are in for an interesting ride.

Jason