piratenation90
Adventurer
Just read through your entire build thread and I must say you are doing an awesome job. Loving all the neat things like the hot water, console fridge and drawer fridge! Can't wait to see how the sleeping platform turns out.
Overland XJ Build. Not my first Rodeo.....(video included)
- Thread starter Overland History
- Start date
Overland History
Wanderluster
Here's a little preview pic of the Comanche E-brake install. 
I'll have a detailed write up with pics this Wednesday or Thursday evening.
Happy to finally have 4 pedals down there!
I'll have a detailed write up with pics this Wednesday or Thursday evening.
Happy to finally have 4 pedals down there!
I can't wait to read this e-brake relocation update. Well done. This gives me enthusiasm for a center console redesign of my own. I'll have two questions for you regarding ergonomics:
- Would the e-brake pedal annoy someone with an automatic? Right now, I can strech out my left foot on a long drive. Maybe this seems insanely nit-picky...
- Does your dometic center console fridge bother your right elbow or right hip/ribs when you are in the drivers seat? I like the feel and shape of the stock center console, even if the storage sucks.
Overland History
Wanderluster
Good eye, Kevin, but thats only because you saw my Facebook pics!
I originally had it deploying to the Driver's side of the XJ, but switched it around recently to deploy over the passenger side.
I did this for a couple of reasons:
First, the water lines for the On-board hot water shower are going to run into the cabin on the passenger side, since the heater core lines are on that side of the engine bay/firewall. The hot water heat exchanger will be mounted as close to them as possible. Since the fresh water lines will already be on the passenger side, it would be a hassle to run them across the passenger rear floorboard to the driver's side, and have to mount the Shur-Flo water pump there as well. Also, there is little to no room to plumb them across between the Freezer console and 10gal water tank.
Second, the Annex for the RTT is going to serve as my shower room, so having the pull-out shower sprayer on the passenger side only makes sense.
I've got a pretty cool idea in my head for the pull-out shower sprayer that I might be able to make work, so stay tuned for that.
Anyways, I really don't mind having to walk around the swing-out tire carrier when considering all of the other factors involved. I'm hoping to mount something like the ARB Awning on the driver's side at some point. Either way, I'll be walking around it.
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Overland History
Wanderluster
Thanks for following along on the journey! Do you have an XJ or a build thread of your own?
Overland History
Wanderluster
The list of parts are pretty simple, and there are really 3 main parts.
The actual pedal assembly itself, the release handle, and the inner parking brake cable, which I would recommend purchasing brand new. I went with the Comanche "Short Bed" cable, which has a 96.53" overall length, and can be found here:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2953707&cc=1181720&jsn=400
When it comes to the actual Comanche pedal assembly, I searched high and low on craigslist and forums for 3 months. I finally got lucky and found a guy in Pennsylvania with a couple of parts MJ's. Wish I still had his info...
I scored my E-brake assembly for $25 shipped with the brake release handle. My best advice would be to scour craigslist, Ebay or NAXJA for an assembly. Sadly, they're seemingly becoming "unobtanium" as MJ's become more rare.
jswift716
Adventurer
Yeah I hear ya. A buddy of mine here was given one he said I could take it from when he gets it here. Thank you for the link and the cable length that helps alot
Overland History
Wanderluster
I find no less leg room now than I had before I installed the foot pedal E-brake. The Brake pedal on an Automatic XJ is much larger/wider, which probably takes up just as much room as my clutch pedal. I never noticed an issue on the '88 Automatic Comanche that I had either. The pedal sits high and out of the way completely.
The Console Freezer actually sits at the PERFECT height for resting my arm in my opinion. It doesnt stick out into the seat, so it will never poke you in the sides. The only gripe that I have, is that when shifting, I kinda lose the ability to keep a cup/beverage in the Driver's side cup holder of the console. Its awkward to reach over it to shift, but it is do-able. To be completely honest, its a sacrifice that isn't so inconvenient that I'm not willing to make it, just to have an On-Board Freezer.
Overland History
Wanderluster
Well here goes the update for the XJ to MJ E-brake relocation. I hope I can complete this update tonight, but if not, it will be Sunday since I've got a lot of pictures.
I'm not completely done with it, as I'm having my buddy weld up the Trans Tunnel span bracket this Sunday, but I'm beyond certain that my design for the bracket will work.
As you've seen previously, I've removed the console hand E-brake, and welded up the hole that was left.
The first step is to remove your kick panel to expose the metal and wiring harness.
Next you'll want to pull off the hood release handle and cable. The handle on mine recently broke off, so it's on the list to replace it. For now, vice grips work.
Pull the wiring harness out of the way to prevent damage or chaffing of any wiring. There is a grey and black connector that needs to be unplugged. I'm not sure if my '94 is the same as other years, so others may have more wiring.
Since my XJ doesn't have power windows, locks, mirrors, etc., the only wires that I've got running into my door are the speaker wires. The green harness unclips and I tucked them into the door pillar so they wouldn't get damaged.
I tucked everything that I could out of the way, including the wiring harness and hood release latch....
Since everything was outta the way, and I found no major issues prohibiting the install, it was time to focus on the actual pedal assembly itself. It's crucial to make sure it functions properly and is lubricated regularly and properly. Since these assemblies are becoming more rare, I want this one to last forever.
Mine had slight surface rust, was dirty, and the original cable came chopped off.
The part that I'm pointing to is the copper sensor that will illuminate your Brake light on the dash when the E-brake is engaged. It needs to be made to engage properly, otherwise the light won't work. I've yet to make it work properly, so I'm stealing the assembly from my original handle E-brake to modify it to work on the pedal assembly, since the copper tab broke off.
I'm not completely done with it, as I'm having my buddy weld up the Trans Tunnel span bracket this Sunday, but I'm beyond certain that my design for the bracket will work.
As you've seen previously, I've removed the console hand E-brake, and welded up the hole that was left.
The first step is to remove your kick panel to expose the metal and wiring harness.
Next you'll want to pull off the hood release handle and cable. The handle on mine recently broke off, so it's on the list to replace it. For now, vice grips work.
Pull the wiring harness out of the way to prevent damage or chaffing of any wiring. There is a grey and black connector that needs to be unplugged. I'm not sure if my '94 is the same as other years, so others may have more wiring.
Since my XJ doesn't have power windows, locks, mirrors, etc., the only wires that I've got running into my door are the speaker wires. The green harness unclips and I tucked them into the door pillar so they wouldn't get damaged.
I tucked everything that I could out of the way, including the wiring harness and hood release latch....
Since everything was outta the way, and I found no major issues prohibiting the install, it was time to focus on the actual pedal assembly itself. It's crucial to make sure it functions properly and is lubricated regularly and properly. Since these assemblies are becoming more rare, I want this one to last forever.
Mine had slight surface rust, was dirty, and the original cable came chopped off.
The part that I'm pointing to is the copper sensor that will illuminate your Brake light on the dash when the E-brake is engaged. It needs to be made to engage properly, otherwise the light won't work. I've yet to make it work properly, so I'm stealing the assembly from my original handle E-brake to modify it to work on the pedal assembly, since the copper tab broke off.
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Overland History
Wanderluster
What you're looking at is the Trans tunnel on the driver's side of the XJ in the passenger area. There is a wiring harness that runs forward and under the original console.
There are 3 wires that branch off of the harness on my '94. One of them is to light the Transfer case shift handle bezel(hence the lightbulb), the middle one, I assume, is to either light an Auto Tranny shift bezel or power mirrors(neither of which I have) and the plug to the right goes to the original console E-brake handle to make the Brake light, light up on the dash. My plan is to leave the harness alone, and simple run and extended wire back down the harness, along the driver's side and up to the pedal E-brake assembly. While some people might see this as pointless and silly, some states require the Brake light to illuminate to pass State Inspection. It's also a good reminder that you're not driving around with your E-brake engaged.
The pedal assembly had a slight issue of not completely disengaging the pedal release mechanism. I realized that the spindle for the pivot release arm had worn down over time, and was now rubbing the housing, causing the problem. Basically, what was happening, is I would pull the release lever, the pedal would fully release, but the lever wouldn't spring back into it's original position. It's possible that depending on the wear and tear of your assembly, you may not have the issue that I did.
I removed the small C-clip from the spindle that retains the brake release arm and spring.
This is the return spring for the pedal release. Essentially, when you pull the handle to release the parking brake, this spring returns the handle to the Pull position.
This is the spring removed and pulling the release assembly off of the spindle....
I used my grinder to remove a little bit of metal on the assembly itself where the release arm pivots and was making contact and not releasing properly, due to a worn down spindle and/or holes on the pivot arm.....
I also took a little bit of metal off of the back side of the release pivot arm to make sure it wouldn't make contact with the assembly anymore. Both of these areas later received grease and will continue to over time....
This is how the E-Brake assembly should operate when working properly.....
There are 3 wires that branch off of the harness on my '94. One of them is to light the Transfer case shift handle bezel(hence the lightbulb), the middle one, I assume, is to either light an Auto Tranny shift bezel or power mirrors(neither of which I have) and the plug to the right goes to the original console E-brake handle to make the Brake light, light up on the dash. My plan is to leave the harness alone, and simple run and extended wire back down the harness, along the driver's side and up to the pedal E-brake assembly. While some people might see this as pointless and silly, some states require the Brake light to illuminate to pass State Inspection. It's also a good reminder that you're not driving around with your E-brake engaged.
The pedal assembly had a slight issue of not completely disengaging the pedal release mechanism. I realized that the spindle for the pivot release arm had worn down over time, and was now rubbing the housing, causing the problem. Basically, what was happening, is I would pull the release lever, the pedal would fully release, but the lever wouldn't spring back into it's original position. It's possible that depending on the wear and tear of your assembly, you may not have the issue that I did.
I removed the small C-clip from the spindle that retains the brake release arm and spring.
This is the return spring for the pedal release. Essentially, when you pull the handle to release the parking brake, this spring returns the handle to the Pull position.
This is the spring removed and pulling the release assembly off of the spindle....
I used my grinder to remove a little bit of metal on the assembly itself where the release arm pivots and was making contact and not releasing properly, due to a worn down spindle and/or holes on the pivot arm.....
I also took a little bit of metal off of the back side of the release pivot arm to make sure it wouldn't make contact with the assembly anymore. Both of these areas later received grease and will continue to over time....
This is how the E-Brake assembly should operate when working properly.....
Attachments
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Overland History
Wanderluster
Anyways, I'm beat and there are a ton more pics to upload. I hope to have the install completed by Sunday!
jswift716
Adventurer
AwesomeAnyways, I'm beat and there are a ton more pics to upload. I hope to have the install completed by Sunday!
Overland History
Wanderluster
While I'm letting paint dry, I'll add a bit more to the thread.
Next, I realized that the assembly didn't come with the little rubber stopper for the pedal.
As you can see in the picture, it's supposed to have something stopping the pedal from releasing up too high and crashing into metal.
I used a bolt and two nuts to make the stopper adjustable. The length that the bolt is set to in the pic is actually too long. I'm currently searching for a little piece of rubber to put over it.
Since the assembly was now functioning properly, and it had some surface rust on it, I decided to paint it with some POR-15, making sure not to paint the ratcheting mechanism or let any moving parts stick together.
On to the mounting of the actual pedal assembly.
What I'm pointing to is the steering column brace which bolts into the kick panel right next to the firewall where the fuse panel is mounted.
The bolt is fairly hidden by the wiring harness....
Here it is on the inside of the fender. You'll have to remove your tire and fender liner to gain access to this area....
This bolt proved to be VERY important in the mounting of the pedal. I decided to use it as a pilot bolt since it seemed to be in the right location to mount the pedal at the back.
I decided to unbolt my fuse panel to keep any of the wires from being damaged, and also because there was very little to no clearance to remove the bolt. When you remove the two bolts from the fuse panel, there are also two little retainer clips next to the bolts that will have to be undone also. I simply zip tied my fuse panel over and out of the way to my clutch pedal arm....
Removed the brace bolt.....
Next, I realized that the assembly didn't come with the little rubber stopper for the pedal.
As you can see in the picture, it's supposed to have something stopping the pedal from releasing up too high and crashing into metal.
I used a bolt and two nuts to make the stopper adjustable. The length that the bolt is set to in the pic is actually too long. I'm currently searching for a little piece of rubber to put over it.
Since the assembly was now functioning properly, and it had some surface rust on it, I decided to paint it with some POR-15, making sure not to paint the ratcheting mechanism or let any moving parts stick together.
On to the mounting of the actual pedal assembly.
What I'm pointing to is the steering column brace which bolts into the kick panel right next to the firewall where the fuse panel is mounted.
The bolt is fairly hidden by the wiring harness....
Here it is on the inside of the fender. You'll have to remove your tire and fender liner to gain access to this area....
This bolt proved to be VERY important in the mounting of the pedal. I decided to use it as a pilot bolt since it seemed to be in the right location to mount the pedal at the back.
I decided to unbolt my fuse panel to keep any of the wires from being damaged, and also because there was very little to no clearance to remove the bolt. When you remove the two bolts from the fuse panel, there are also two little retainer clips next to the bolts that will have to be undone also. I simply zip tied my fuse panel over and out of the way to my clutch pedal arm....
Removed the brace bolt.....
Overland History
Wanderluster
This picture shows the inner part of the fender. The nut at the left is the steering column brace hole, so I figured that the top, forward bolt of where the pedal assembly will mount will be somewhere behind that protruding thin metal just to the right.
I decided to slice a bit of it off for easier access to the future bolt hole. Just for perspective, the red hinge behind where I cut is the door hinge....
I mounted the pedal with the single bolt from the steering column brace to be able to mark my two forward holes and also work the pedal mechanism up and down to make sure it clears everything, including the wiring harness that goes into the back of the fuse panel box.
Just as an FYI, Jeep was nice enough to leave holes to mount the E-brake pedal release handle at the bottom lip of the dash, just above the hood release. I'm not sure if the same is for the '97+ models. I would tend to doubt it, since the Comanche and 84-96 XJ's shared a common dash.
This video shows the pedal mocked up into place with the rear steering column brace bolt tight and the pedal release handle bolted up to make sure everything works smooth....
I decided to slice a bit of it off for easier access to the future bolt hole. Just for perspective, the red hinge behind where I cut is the door hinge....
I mounted the pedal with the single bolt from the steering column brace to be able to mark my two forward holes and also work the pedal mechanism up and down to make sure it clears everything, including the wiring harness that goes into the back of the fuse panel box.
Just as an FYI, Jeep was nice enough to leave holes to mount the E-brake pedal release handle at the bottom lip of the dash, just above the hood release. I'm not sure if the same is for the '97+ models. I would tend to doubt it, since the Comanche and 84-96 XJ's shared a common dash.
This video shows the pedal mocked up into place with the rear steering column brace bolt tight and the pedal release handle bolted up to make sure everything works smooth....