Stowing gear in your rig and why?

CanuckMariner/Nomad

Love having fun 😊 in the 🌞 by the ⛵ and the ⏳
I had been thinking for sometime, how does everyone else stow their gear in their rigs for trips and why do they stow the way they do (reasoning?).

My primary reasoning for the way I do it in my rig is weight distribution and access. I would think most people would think this the same for their situation, right, eh? (eh? = Kanuk for Acceptance!). Other factors, which despite how little you might initially think it matters, it DOES matter and that is tire wear and, fuel efficiency. Fuel is my single biggest cost on trips!

I started initially by just estimating stock and mod weights and planned out gear. MT45 fridge is about 50 lbs empty and up to 100lbs full, so put it in behind me with rear barn door access (73 series) n the pretty much evenly distributed African Outback drawers. . Dual Optima Blue tops (24V NATO compliant) already in the front left corner of the engine bay would be offset by the fridge. Me (driver) in the right seat need offsetting, so dual jerry cans carrier on the rear left (used be triple and fuel - now dual water). Figured Toyota engineers/designers already took the driver/battery distribution in consideration during their design of the truck and who am I to better that, right, eh?

Next, a drive out, with a full fuel tank and water in jerrys, and weight the truck for total weight, left/right sides and front rear axles as well as all four corners. The numbers were quite revealing and I won't bore you with them and the kilogram/pound conversion, but now knowing them sure helps when packing gear.

Other factors to consider are clean stuff versus the dirty stuff (food vs. tools), and of course how often do you need to get at it - access. With African Outback drawers, this is somewhat easier to do and to organize. One drawer is tools, recovery gear and the other is food. I put my dirty stuff (tools, recovery, etc. in the left rear drawer/ and left rear side storage compartments (with only sleeping gear [sleeping bag and self filling mat] on the top of the drawers (right side), this made easy access to main tools for repairs, flats, etc.) which added some weight due to the dual water jerrys on that side already, but easier access with out moving a lot of gear out of the way (rain/snow/mud). A collapsible plastic box right behind the driver seat is for drinks and snacks and along with cooking gear and food in the right drawer, this balanced the weight quite well in all directions. Recently finished and added an Aluminum folding kitchen shelf/tray on the right rear barn door, which may result in me reversing the two drawers as when I cook/prep meals, the tray will be down with still easily sliding out of the fridge for access, but the cooking/food drawer will be in the way of the tray or visa versa. So will try to switch those drawers and see how th weight is and access to everything.

Lastly to offset any other smaller weight distribution issues, my personal gear (recent issues of OJ, toiletries and such) are stored on either side depending on what I think the weight distribution is and what is required to even it out (verified at the scales on the way (no pun) out of town and the adjusted as needed.

You may well ask, what does he do with all that room from the rear of the drawers to the back of the two front bucket seats. Good question! It is a rather large stow area - ~ 4' x 2.5' x 1.25'. To keep the area level so I can extend it out to a folded and forwarded stowed passenger seat, for sleeping, I have two extension boards to match the top of the drawer system. One larger one, to cover the storage area just mentioned and another dual purpose one. This last one serves as the extension to the front folded passenger seat for sleeping on (I get a full 6' 4" and I am only 6' and a bit) and doubles for a work bench on top of the 2 drawers when they are fully extended out.

Hey, you mentioned that storage compartment but didn't say what's in it! Here I usually store (distributed of course) valuable hard to get stuff from my homeland Kanukistan, I am bringing south to various friends cause they plain don't have kool stuff in the USA. Like what do we have that you don't, you may well ask? Like famous, thirst quenching manly beers, Aero chocolate bars, woolly/flannel undergarments (like negligees, nighties, knickers and such) and I can't tell you anymore or I would have to kill you. Let's just say, stuff the USA Border Patrol, Customs Agents and Homeland Security guys are dieing for! As I carry (due to the extreme change in weather from Kanukistan and northern US territories to the southern arid climes) dual sleeping bags (winter/summer) these are stored there as well. Gloves (diesel is smelly dirty stuff, but man is it cheap and efficient), diesel conditioner, condom like gloves for greasy work, snow brush, ice scraper, etc are stowed there right behind the driver seat for easy access.

Photos to follow next time I pack up for a trip - Easter weekend - Cypress Hills!

OK, now lets hear from you all as to what's wrong with my method/thinking and how you guys do it as well.
 
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R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I envy people who only have to pack for 2. I have to pack for 3, and soon, 4. Not only is it twice the gear, but now the back seat is gone too. When I'm packing, the single most important factor for me is "where is that gear going to go in a collision?" I've been in a heavy frontal collision, and you'd be surprised what even a regular soft sided suitcase snuggly placed in a trunk will do to the rear seat. Let alone something like a toolbox or other dense object that may get to take a run of about 6 feet before it hits the front seats. I'm really surprised that more poeple don't build cargo racks, or at least a net to keep everything behind the passengers. I cringe seeing vehicles packed to the roof with kids in the backseat with gear surrounding them up to their ears.

It's all a big part of the reason I said to hell with it, I'm building a trailer. The only thing in the truck will be recovery gear and tools, some clothes, snacks and survival gear for when we're away from the trailer.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
I also really envy the people who have an entire rig to themselves or only 2 people...
I often have 2-4 people plus extra stuff for those in the group who are new or don't have gear. Then there is the stuff for testing, info to give people we meet along the way and more.
It all adds up to a ton of wgt (no literally 2000lbs) and lots of space.
2-3 clothes backpacks
2-4 sleeping bags
food for 4
water for 4
drinks for 4
firewood for many nights or propane fire pit/tank

Not to mention I am doing all this in an FJ Cruiser which doesn't have much payload or space to begin with.

So I use my Tuffy drawer (but I am thinking of switching to the Adventure Trailer Drawers for less wgt & more compartments)
My fridge replaced the 40% back seat behind the driver.
The Gobi rack is full.
And I keep pairing down what I carry....or trying to at least.

The only real option and one I have been putting off is changing rigs...as bad as I want an 80 series, Defender 110 or 130...it is all about the money right now. I am too deep into my current rig to change..maybe in a year or 2.

Great post Jan and keep the good thoughts flowing.
 

hikingff77

Adventurer
FJ Cruiser? I thought you had a Dakota?

I also really envy the people who have an entire rig to themselves or only 2 people...
I often have 2-4 people plus extra stuff for those in the group who are new or don't have gear. Then there is the stuff for testing, info to give people we meet along the way and more.
It all adds up to a ton of wgt (no literally 2000lbs) and lots of space.
2-3 clothes backpacks
2-4 sleeping bags
food for 4
water for 4
drinks for 4
firewood for many nights or propane fire pit/tank

Not to mention I am doing all this in an FJ Cruiser which doesn't have much payload or space to begin with.

So I use my Tuffy drawer (but I am thinking of switching to the Adventure Trailer Drawers for less wgt & more compartments)
My fridge replaced the 40% back seat behind the driver.
The Gobi rack is full.
And I keep pairing down what I carry....or trying to at least.

The only real option and one I have been putting off is changing rigs...as bad as I want an 80 series, Defender 110 or 130...it is all about the money right now. I am too deep into my current rig to change..maybe in a year or 2.

Great post Jan and keep the good thoughts flowing.
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Even with my rear seats taken out to accommodate the ARB fridge and to lay the gear down flat, the FJ Cruiser is really tight on space.

I am working on that though, and reorganizing my gear into new totes, and taking stuff out that I can do without.

Here is the rig packed last August for my trip to Mt. Rainier.
It should be a lot better for this coming season.

1.jpg


2.jpg
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
FJ Cruiser? I thought you had a Dakota?

I am part of Disabled Explorers and you will see a variety of rigs posted by us :)
My personal rig and the one that serves as the main DE demo rig is a 2007 FJ Cruiser. I am an lower leg amputee and look at things from that perspective.
Corbin is our wheelchair dude and he has the Dakota with the roof top tent over the bed.
Then we have board member with a 4Runner & another with a Jeep Liberty.
Of course then there is Project Rover, 1992 Range Rover Classic County which we are making pretty, taking on trips and then giving away this fall! (we were going to give away my FJC but the cost/benefit wasn't there compared to the Rover).

In the future we plan to do projects with a Jeep Cherokee, 80 series, 4 door full size truck or Suburban, and a few other things....all will have storages and gear problems to sort out!

We are trying to look at the gear storage and access issue from different mobility needs. 1 armed vs 2, size of the container vs drawers, hgt vs reach...lots of things for folks to figure out what works for them.
 

p1michaud

Expedition Leader
Great thread

Jan,
Great idea for a thread. I'll have to respond properly once I have better net access...as mentionned in my cruiser thread we've recently re-organized and it seems to be working realtively well for the time being.
 

Pskhaat

2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
Let's not forget the effect of aerodynamics on items mounted outside the vehicle.
 

CanuckMariner/Nomad

Love having fun 😊 in the 🌞 by the ⛵ and the ⏳
Jan,
Great idea for a thread. I'll have to respond properly once I have better net access...as mentionned in my cruiser thread we've recently re-organized and it seems to be working realtively well for the time being.

Looking forward to it and your new build thread!
 

CanuckMariner/Nomad

Love having fun 😊 in the 🌞 by the ⛵ and the ⏳
Let's not forget the effect of aerodynamics on items mounted outside the vehicle.

Totally agree Scott, that is one of the primary reasons I sold my rack and RTT. Besides, not only aerodynamics are affected, but fuel economy, stability, security, underground parking, etc.
 
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corbin8or

Adventurer
I haven't been able to post pictures but with the right wind fairings and mounting you can keep gas mileage under control. I have a Thule rack over the cab of my Dakota QuadCab and a custom rack for my RTT that keeps it lower than the rack but high enough for my handcycle and offroad wheelchair.
I still get 16-17mpg with a 25 gallon tank. On a cross country trip last summer I tried the hypermileage way and got up to 25mpg! its a fun thing to do and really doesn't add a significant delay... smell the roses a little more... As far as other storage I have removed the rear seat in the cab and made a large center console. I use action packers for gear right now and cargo bars to help hold stuff in place in the bed. custom rear tire bumper to come soon for Dakota to make room for air and maybe propane tank under bed in spare's normal place.
 

alia176

Explorer
I agree, storage was awesome when it was just the two of us and the dogs. Now, we have one dog and added a child to the mix so this is the latest configuration that seems to work out well enough.

I'm a firm believer in keeping the cargo separate from the occupants by using a barrier of some sort. The Engel is strapped down to tie down points (I got several) in the cab. The wife likes having access to the Engel while we're moving for juice, snacks, pop, etc. Everything gets strapped down in the cargo area as well.

The Thule Cape Cod cargo carrier is a must for us and it's very aerodynamic so the mpg loss is hardly noticeable and there is no noise to speak of. Just don't run into the garage like I did :) One of the nicest thing about having a cargo carrier is that you can simply throw stuff up there w/o having to worry about weather proofing or strapping things down. The carrier weighs around 50 pounds and the content is primarily bulky and light items so the COG isn't affected noticeably.

Some pics:
 

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TeriAnn

Explorer
Here is the rig packed last August for my trip to Mt. Rainier.
It should be a lot better for this coming season.

1.jpg

WOW!


Here's the rear of my truck fully packed to be out on the trail for a month.

rearinterior.jpeg

Left side, rear to front:

Dormobile kitchen unit - This unit has a propane cooker with 2 burners, a broiler, a sink and storage area underneath. I store my dishes, cookware, canned and bottled foods in this storage space

Dormobile Spice rack (above left side window) - This is a storage shelf that sits above the stove . I usually keep flatware, pot holders, fire lighter, spray cooking oil, a cereals bowl & cup here. Oh & spices too.

Dormobile top bunk - A side fold out cot mounted at the roof line left side and protected by a white nagahide cover when stowed. The bunk is 6 feet long. I have a right side bunk in storage.

Sink stand - This is a custom sink stand that holds a second sink. The front access door folds up to provide additional work space. There is a water pump and filter mounted below the sink. The faucet swings for both sinks and can point out the side window if I need to run water outside the vehicle. I store cleaning supplies, a stove top toaster and ale inside this cabinet.

Left side wardrobe - This is a custom made cabinet modeled after a factory Dormobile cabinet. A 15 gallon stainless steel water tank is fitted below this cabinet. There is a rough screen filter and 1 way flow valve near the cabinet base. You can see a porta-potty in its stowed position in the cabinet base. This cabinet hast three shelves plus vertical stowage for a camera tripod and a pick handle. In this cabinet I keep clothing, shoes, books and recovery straps.


Right side, rear to front:

Air pump (not visible, at rear of body) - Quickair2 12 Volt pump provides are to the rear ARB locker and for airing up tyres. There is a gauge & quick release connector easily accessible at the rear.

Folding jump seat & rear battery - This is a standard Series Land Rover folding rear seat. In the side bench area under the seat is a deep cycle 12V battery that powers the rear electrics and the radios.

Refrigerator & stand - This is a Norcold (same as ARB) refrigerator sitting on a stand I fabricated. The base of the refrigerator stand is storage space with a flip down door. In here I stow enough engine oil for an oil change, oil filter, fuel filter and a bottle of power steering fluid. The upper sides of the truck slope inwards a little so the fridge needs to be about 2 inches from the body side in order to have open lid clearance. I stow a large griddle between the refrigerator and body. I also use the refrigerator as a step to reach the top bunk and as a table for eating.

Dormobile wardrobe - I have added a shelf near the top and a couple racks inside the door. On the shelf I store things like spare fan belts, a 300 watt DC to AC converter, toilet paper, Kleenex, and towels. Below in the main area I stow my nut & bolt box, a wine storage container, sleeping bag and inflatable mattress. There is a fold up jump seat built into the bottom of the wardrobe. There is space for a couple large cereal boxes behind the lowered jump seat. The inside of the door has a mirror with two racks below. The racks hold things like deodorant, hand lotion and other toiletries.

Tea cabinet (across body rear above the rear door) - Added in 1999. I got this idea from touring Herbert Zipkin's Land Rover. It is a long cabinet that stretches the entire rear of the vehicle. Herb used it for map storage, I use the space for tea storage. I have space for 7 verities of tea back there plus a repair kit. The kit contains spare bulbs, fuses, a snap resetting kit and a tarp eye resetting kit. There is also a box of water proof matches. Yes I drink lot of tea and I like variety.


For cooking
GRktichen1t.jpg


For washing dishes
GRdishes1.jpg


I have three internal fuel tanks at frame level for a total fuel capacity of 42 gallons, so no need to bring jerry cans. There is a 5 gallon propane tank that sits on top of a frame outrigger in otherwise unused space between the interior & exterior body. On the opposite side is a built in 15 gallon drinking water tank. There is also a 2.5 gallon compressed air tank squirreled away in otherwise unused space at frame level. All the fuel, propane and water is stored at frame level.

propaneAux.jpg

Picture shows my back up bottle connected into the propane circuit. With the door open you can see the built in tank.

Here's a picture of my truck camped in Kane creek, near Moab this last summer
GRKaneCreek08lt.jpg

Here you can see the roof rack​

On a long trip the roof rack usually carries:
- Shower tent & shower hardware for setting up a camp shower
- folding chairs in their bags
- plastic tote with 2 bottle jacks, grease gun, oil filler gun and plastic funnel
- plastic tote with nylon tarp, 10 foot water hose, long extension cord, length of nylon cord
- 5L (little over one gallon) jerry can with 90 wt oil
- 5L jerry can with anti freeze
- empty 3 gallon plastic water can for use with shower
- parts cleaning kit (5l jerry can for solvent, empty 5L can for dirty solvent, pan for washing parts & container for rags & cleaning brushes.
- When I expect to be out longer than 3 weeks I carry my aluminum spare propane tank on the roof as well. For shorter trips it stays home.
- I have a little rectangular portable Weber BBQ that I may occasionally bring along if I'm going to sit at a base camp for a few days. Normally I just broil my meat in the stove. I never bother with a camp fire when I'm not traveling with other vehicles.

In the space behind the seats and a bulkhead I carry my tool kit, a 12V work light, fire extinguisher, saw, hammer, air hose & filler tool, 5'X7' tarp, roll of wire & additional recovery gear. Under the drivers seat is space for spare brake fluid, a can of liquid wrench and a can of electrical contact cleaner.

I probably forgot to mention something, but that's basically how I pack my Land Rover Dormobile. From inside it looks pretty much the same empty as it does fully loaded for an extended trip.
 

CanuckMariner/Nomad

Love having fun 😊 in the 🌞 by the ⛵ and the ⏳
Weighing your rig

A great way to know how to pack your gear for even weight distribution is to weigh your rig at one of the many scales around your town. I am sure there are commercial scales around most major centres or a truck stop fueling station like Flying J or Pitts, Loves, etc.

Try to have as near a full tank of fuel as you can as the rest of your gear you can weigh on a home scale (stay less than 250lbs or you can break it!). To get the best results you should weigh your rig in 9 different positions so make sure the scale is free for a while and your not holding up any 18 wheelers up. I usually go after hours so I do not bother anyone.

Might also note down accuracy of scale (± 50 lbs or 20 kgs) if presented or available from Scale Master.

I make three passes over the scale (to use my time effectively and efficiently) from left to right or right to left. It helps to have a piece of paper with a sketch on it to show all 9 weights:

Pass #1 Front left/right corner, left/right side, rear left/'right corner

Pass #2 Front/rear axle, total weight

Pass #3 Reverse of pass #1

Once you have these 9 weights you can pack your rig accordingly keeping heavier weights over the back axle if possible. Remember to keep really heavy stuff off of the roof rack (stability, centre of gravity, top heavy, etc.) if you have one or use one occasionally.

Estimate or weight each item and then calculate the weights for each quarter, half and side and total.

Remember to look at the side walls of your tires and note the rated maximum tire pressure and weight for each tire. Keep in mind that as you are traveling, your tires heat up and hence the pressure increases. Might do a test at say 35 lbs pressure cold and then drive for an hour or so on the highway at normal traveling speed and then measure tire pressure again, the difference is important as you do NOT want to go over the max pressure or weight rated for your tires. Weight has a lot to do with how fast you go and tire pressure. So keep all this in mind.

I weighed my rig this aft and here is my results for comparison, near full fuel tank, empty AO drawers and me (sorry about the kilograms/metric thing, multiply every number by 2.2 for lbs):

Total: 2500; front axle 1260 (560/660 L/R Qtrs); rear axle 1240 (590/640 L/R Qtrs); 1170/1290 L/R sides

Note it is RHD so I am on the right sitting in it, steering assembly is on the right, 2x12V Optima blues are on the left front (24V system).

I use BFG AT KOs 33x10.5 rated for 50 lbs max, so I put them always at 40 lbs cold as my rig is between 5500 and 6000 lbs loaded for trips.

Hope this all helps!
 
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