Fixing rear sway??

[wesel123]

So with my 100 loaded with the normal day to day load I get a rear end sway that is A) Getting worse & B) Frekin annoying.

The rear set up is a Slee rear Med. spring and OME N101's. I sit level with the Slee Med. and I'm pretty sure that if I go with the Heav. that'll be overkill and a crappy ride.

So I was looking to get some input on what else I can look at??

I'm thinking new shocks are in order but is there anything else to look out for???

 

[spressomon]

Are the OME Medium rears coils the OME model 866 dual/progressive rate coils? Do you have a steel aftermarket bumper with swingout? AO or similar drawers and/or unusually heavy cargo in the back of the 100?

#1: When I ran the 866 I found I didn't like them because of their "progressive" rate design. They, with some ******** end weight on the rig (bumper, tire carrier, drawers, cargo, etc) always seemed to be unloading in a not so smooth/controllable manner. This symptom was not experienced with the OME 865, 863, current 864 or Slee's custom springs I tried.

#2: Can you describe the symptom in greater depth/detail? I.e.: Under what driving and terrain conditions does the symptom appear?

#3: I assume your OME shocks are not leaking and/or are functioning as new/properly at any corner of the rig correct?

 

[Root Moose]

Did these vehicles ever come with rear anti-roll bars?

We are looking at setting up a rear disconnect for our Jeeps, mostly to have more positive control when towing and under "panic" situations. We will be fangling against factory rear anti-roll bars though so the hard part is done for us.

If you can use factory parts to your advantage (i.e. factory anti-roll bar) it shouldn't be hard to do similar on a 100.

JAT

 

[wesel123]

Are the OME Medium rears coils the OME model 866 dual/progressive rate coils? Do you have a steel aftermarket bumper with swingout? AO or similar drawers and/or unusually heavy cargo in the back of the 100?

#1: When I ran the 866 I found I didn't like them because of their "progressive" rate design. They, with some ******** end weight on the rig (bumper, tire carrier, drawers, cargo, etc) always seemed to be unloading in a not so smooth/controllable manner. This symptom was not experienced with the OME 865, 863, current 864 or Slee's custom springs I tried.

#2: Can you describe the symptom in greater depth/detail? I.e.: Under what driving and terrain conditions does the symptom appear?

#3: I assume your OME shocks are not leaking and/or are functioning as new/properly at any corner of the rig correct?

I do have a Rear ARB bumper with the tire on the RHS, ARB fridge, and one slid out drawer.

The rear spring is Slee's newer rear Med. spring. The next level above would be the Heavies and that is, according to Slee, going to give me a crappy ride

2) It's most noticable on the freeway. If I make a slight correction the rear end sways.

3) I need to pull the rear shocks to see how they compress and how long they take to return. But I belive I have about 30k on the shocks and Im sure its time for some new ones.

The sway bar looks ok nothing loose and the rubber looks good.

Pic of the rear set up:

 

[spressomon]

Are you using OEM t-bars or did you upgrade to the OME t-bars? If you have OEM with the added weight of your rig the sway might be being induced by the softer OEM t-bar.

When I had the OME (101 and 133) which a buddy of mine has been using once I did my Fox conversion a couple years ago,they seemed, assuming yours are not blown, overdamped for the small bump stuff and underdamped for the large bumps especially noticeably after I added the weight of bumpers, AO drawers, etc. So I do wonder based on what you have presented here if indeed you might have a shock issue.

OTOH: If you are currently using the OME 865 spring: That spring suited me fine until I added the rear bumper and drawers (along with all the gear in the drawers ;-)...then they were as you describe with not as firm handling as I preferred.

Although there are a number of guys running the 866 spring I, as I mentioned above, didn't like it (more because of its short coming performance off-road than on-road).

I don't know how you, assuming you need firmer rate springs, will not get a firmer ride to reduce/eliminate your sway issue. But having said that the 863 IMO with appropriate ballast to suit is a nice overall compromise.

And lastly I did, after trying to figure out bad handling woes mostly noticeable over speed bumps or similar, Slee's adjustable pan-hard. It improved the rear suspension cycling issues I was having by about 75-80%. The remainder can be remedied by creating a pan hard mount that puts the panhard in a more horizontal plane ala stock.

One last thing: If you raised your rear suspension 2" I would suggest also lengthening the anti-sway bracket/rod length by a similar amount. I cut and welded mine with longer tubing but maybe Slee or ? offers them now.

 

[wesel123]

I am running OME torsion bars with a slee diff drop kit.

I need to get the exact spring info that Slee sold me. It is their own made spring so I'm not sure of the spring rate's etc.

Thanks for the info so far. I'm pretty sure Im going to replace the shocks with OME's new Sport Shocks and I was always thinking of getting the adj. pan hard bar, so nows the time I think

The first lift for the rear was done with 866 and N101 Firms. So Ill get the info on the Slee springs and hope this will narrow it down.

 

[spressomon]

One other thought after seeing the pic of your rig with the RTT: Do you get the same symptom with and without the RTT mounted atop your rig?

 

[wesel123]

With the RTT its gets worse. But not that much.

After a LONG talk with ARB yesterday I've come to the conclusion that its definitely the shocks. Pulled off the passenger rear and it took way to long to recover from full compression, which leads me to the ARB guys....totally AWSOME:wings:

These guys are going above an beyond what I was expecting. They are going to warranty one of the shocks and give me a killer deal on the new Sport Shock!!!!!!!!

In regards to the rear spring I have Slee's equivalent to the 863 (not the J's). So unless I want a stink bug look, which I think I'll get from the 863 J's then I'm good on the springs.

Thanks Spress for all the help.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

Did these vehicles ever come with rear anti-roll bars?

We are looking at setting up a rear disconnect for our Jeeps, mostly to have more positive control when towing and under "panic" situations. We will be fangling against factory rear anti-roll bars though so the hard part is done for us.

If you can use factory parts to your advantage (i.e. factory anti-roll bar) it shouldn't be hard to do similar on a 100.

JAT

The Cruiser has F&R sway bars. Quick disco's are not necessary on the LC as the sway bar does not limit suspension travel. A bit different setup than a Jeep. I've had mine off and the suspension will cycle a bit easier however at the cost of off-camber stability. They are back on and on to stay.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

With the RTT its gets worse. But not that much.

After a LONG talk with ARB yesterday I've come to the conclusion that its definitely the shocks. Pulled off the passenger rear and it took way to long to recover from full compression, which leads me to the ARB guys....totally AWSOME:wings:

These guys are going above an beyond what I was expecting. They are going to warranty one of the shocks and give me a killer deal on the new Sport Shock!!!!!!!!

In regards to the rear spring I have Slee's equivalent to the 863 (not the J's). So unless I want a stink bug look, which I think I'll get from the 863 J's then I'm good on the springs.

Thanks Spress for all the help.

Good info....before you bite on the new shocks....how does the rear end act going over say a speed bump, or down a curb? What I'm getting at is do you nearly bottom out? Is it squishy...up and down movement? When your rear drops down a rock does it feel squishy or moderate-firm?

 

[NVLOC]

Are you using OEM t-bars or did you upgrade to the OME t-bars? If you have OEM with the added weight of your rig the sway might be being induced by the softer OEM t-bar.

When I had the OME (101 and 133) which a buddy of mine has been using once I did my Fox conversion a couple years ago,they seemed, assuming yours are not blown, overdamped for the small bump stuff and underdamped for the large bumps especially noticeably after I added the weight of bumpers, AO drawers, etc. So I do wonder based on what you have presented here if indeed you might have a shock issue.

OTOH: If you are currently using the OME 865 spring: That spring suited me fine until I added the rear bumper and drawers (along with all the gear in the drawers ;-)...then they were as you describe with not as firm handling as I preferred.

Although there are a number of guys running the 866 spring I, as I mentioned above, didn't like it (more because of its short coming performance off-road than on-road).

I don't know how you, assuming you need firmer rate springs, will not get a firmer ride to reduce/eliminate your sway issue. But having said that the 863 IMO with appropriate ballast to suit is a nice overall compromise.

And lastly I did, after trying to figure out bad handling woes mostly noticeable over speed bumps or similar, Slee's adjustable pan-hard. It improved the rear suspension cycling issues I was having by about 75-80%. The remainder can be remedied by creating a pan hard mount that puts the panhard in a more horizontal plane ala stock.

One last thing: If you raised your rear suspension 2" I would suggest also lengthening the anti-sway bracket/rod length by a similar amount. I cut and welded mine with longer tubing but maybe Slee or ? offers them now.

Same problem here. It's good to know I'm not the only that feels this way about the 866s. Have the full OME set up from slee with 866 myself and when loaded, I definitely notice the sway. No aftermarket bumper but with a 6 bike rack loaded (about 500 pounds), gear and people, it sways heavily off and on road.

I'm debating going to 863's or to the slee springs that offer the same weight carrying capacity but 2" instead of 3" of lift unloaded. Was thinking the 2" slee springs with a 10mm trim packer to have it level when loaded. Right now its level unloaded, which doesn't functionaly make sense to me.

Spresso,

When you talk about the slee panhard bar decreasing the suspension cycling issues, what are you referring to?

I'm trying to better pin point my problem myself. Although I am quite confident a stiffer spring rate would be the answer in my case.

BTW, I have an 03 uzj100.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

Same problem here. It's good to know I'm not the only that feels this way about the 866s. Have the full OME set up from slee with 866 myself and when loaded, I definitely notice the sway. No aftermarket bumper but with a 6 bike rack loaded (about 500 pounds), gear and people, it sways heavily off and on road.

I'm debating going to 863's or to the slee springs that offer the same weight carrying capacity but 2" instead of 3" of lift unloaded. Was thinking the 2" slee springs with a 10mm trim packer to have it level when loaded. Right now its level unloaded, which doesn't functionaly make sense to me.

BTW, I have an 03 uzj100.

You're in a tough spot. No aftermarket bumper and you travel loaded and unloaded often.

*863 LOADED will net you 3" lift. A bit higher and stiffer when unloaded.

*Slee's new springs will result in less lift though adding a trim pack to it almost negates the reason to buy Slee-brand.

I'd suggest a compromise....when it's time to get an aligment next...I'd throw in the 863's AND at that time raise your front end about 1/2" to better match up. I think you'll be happy with the look, the rear will be a tad stiff unloaded though just right loaded. Best compromise for you in my opinion. Then get that alignment.

 

[Root Moose]

Quick disco's are not necessary on the LC as the sway bar does not limit suspension travel.

Really? Do you have an image that shows how the sway bar is configured?

Just to be clear/precise - I'm not doubting per se - although what you are saying is counter to how a sway bar works - a sway bar is a glorified transverse torsion bar that equally reacts one side to the other - it may be a design worth copying so I'd like to see it.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

Really? Do you have an image that shows how the sway bar is configured?

Just to be clear/precise - I'm not doubting per se - although what you are saying is counter to how a sway bar works - a sway bar is a glorified transverse torsion bar that equally reacts one side to the other - it may be a design worth copying so I'd like to see it.

Ya, Cruisers are a bit different. From 1991-on full suspension travel is capable regardless of the sways being connected or not.

Compared to a Wrangler's front-end say...(I'm not too good at techno english so.....)...I would guess the reason the front can't extend all the way with the SB on is because the "rate" of that sway bar is too stiff and/or aggressive (for safety's sake). There's not enough typical force (from weight, whatever physical factors) to stretch/force that sway bar to the point where the suspension is fully extended. In this case, SB disco's do the trick.

Not so on a Cruiser. If you need the articulation it is just there. Below is sway bars on, and both ends fully stuffed/extended.

There's some sway bar shots here:
http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/V...l-Arm-Skid-Plates/958316_PPcDF#44066631_WHgH8

IF you do remove the sways on the 80 and 100 Series LC's...the wheels seem to "move easier" on the light-to-moderate cross-flex stuff where there's little force. But when a hole comes where you need full articulation, it simply goes to the bump stops. On the other hand, the rig flops side-to-side much more and it feels less stable. Solutution? Put the sway back on and go!

 

[ShottsCruisers]

And one more thing...the sway bars still do not prevent full extention even on longer-travel aftermarket 80 and 100 series Cruisers. There's so much SB flex available that I can still articulate as I do in that above pic despite me having 2.1" more travel than a typical OME rear suspension.