Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

The flanges are the same from a Durango right?

I guess that's the other option. I've read those threads, but from what I got out of it, if I understood right, those 2 guys that got the beefy Durango shafts, those were not stock Durango shafts, but custom HD Durango shafts. The standard Durango shaft is more similar to ours?

 

[Geo14cux]

X what Musky said..... Angles are often overlooked.
TW shafts are really nice!! Huge plus is his customer sevice..

 

[Root Moose]

Chris, yeah, I'm an OVLR member. What do you know Malmberg has done? Just a basic stock rebuild, or can they beef things up?

They've done everything for the various project vehicles in the club - from scratch to modifications. You need to know exactly what you want though.

Whatever route you decide make sure you end up with an upgrade at the end of it.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

So, I sent the driveshaft off to CV Tech in Gatineau so they can have a look at it and see what they can do. Malmberg's supposedly farms out their custom "light duty" (meaning not heavy trucks) stuff to CV Tech, so I just went right to the source.

I've looked into the TW pricing, he's saying $350 for a regular spline, or $390 for a long spline. There's no free shipping into Canada, and they won't even "comp" a part of the shipping into Canada. Then brokerage, etc. plus the risk of maybe having to send it back for rebalancing.... I'll see what the local shop says first. They guestimated $400 for a 1310 based custom shaft.

Can anybody suggest what would be the best 1310 joint to use? I see for example there's a huge selection of Spicers, but don't know which is best.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Actually just got off the phone with him cause the shaft arrived and he looked at it. He asked me if it vibrated much and I said just a bit. He was surprised because he said both weights were missing. And confirmed the joints at the DC were starting to fail.

We talked about what I wanted to do, and basically we're looking at building a new HD shaft using 1310's and parts from a Durango. He said the rear flange is the same. I know the Durango option was discussed on DWeb a fair amount. So, rear yoke, DC, splines from a Durango and he'd have to reuse the front flange. Cut it off and weld it onto a 1310 yoke. I wasn't quite sure about that part, I thought the Durango flange at the front fit as well?

He also mentioned doing away with the DC altogether and building a simple 2 joint shaft using 1310 "wheel joints" intead. I... don't like the sound of that too much even though he said it would be cheaper.

I'm a little cautious because it sounds like they do a lot of hard core off-road stuff, and I want to make sure I retain driveability. ie: no vibration. If I did that, I'd have to change the pinion angle to match the TC output, etc... don't really want to get into that.

 

[Geo14cux]

Dude get a Woods!

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Will cost twice as much to get it up here, and I'd like to try to "Buy Canadian"

If this doesn't pan out, I might have a Woods shipped to the border and drive across and install it in the parking lot... But then, I have to go get a passport first... Damn it.

It would help if at least Woods would "comp" me like $50 worth of shipping or whatever the American customers typically are getting. I'll never understand why they do that.

 

[michaels]

Will cost twice as much to get it up here, and I'd like to try to "Buy Canadian"

If this doesn't pan out, I might have a Woods shipped to the border and drive across and install it in the parking lot... But then, I have to go get a passport first... Damn it.

It would help if at least Woods would "comp" me like $50 worth of shipping or whatever the American customers typically are getting. I'll never understand why they do that.

rebuild it with 1310s and keep the DC end. that's how i did mine. completely cut off the old DC assembly and TIG welded in a new spicer DC assembly and ujoints, new tcase flange and let the diff end as it was. grease it up every few months and it's been great for one year so far. the actual shaft is still the original unit.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Ok, so you kept the diff end too? That's good to know. It's just as easy if not easier for these guys to use new material for the tube and splines, so that's what I'll do. The Durango stuff is readily available and stronger.

All this also bears the question, should I be looking at the rear shaft while I'm at it. I don't hear much about the rears. Don't know if it's because they're strong enough already, or just that they don't fail catastrophicaly. It's got another 1300 joint down there, and I would thing it's under even more stress on the rear shaft so... At the very least, I'll probably spend the $15 or whatever to replace it with a new Neapco 1-0005? Just so it's done and I know they're all fresh.

 

[timmy!!!!!!!]

You should ditch your crappy rotoflex in the back and get a u-joint ds. I know some people like the rotoflex ds but I personally prefer the u-joint ds. Also the reason people don't have failures in the rear ds is from the fact that their are grease points in the joints and in the splines with no centering ball to go bad. I have a d2 ds on my d1 but it has been recently rebuilt.

 

[Antichrist]

I'm not sure the point of using 1310's in the DC and a 1300 on the diff end.
I'd suggest using a u-joint with the zerk in the end cap in the DC. They are stronger, and easier to get at the zerk.

 

[muskyman]

replacing the DC with a 1310 unit and keeping the diff end a 1300 is just a dumb idea. yes it will work but for how long?

the 1310 stuff is alot bigger and heavier so now you have a much heavier shaft being retained by a undersiezed u-joint and flange at one end.

I know you are trying to save some money and "buy canadian" yada yada yada...but come on this is the front driveshaft, just do it right and be done with it. You dont need the long spline you just want something that isnt going to go boom.

 

[Roverhound]

replacing the DC with a 1310 unit and keeping the diff end a 1300 is just a dumb idea. yes it will work but for how long?

the 1310 stuff is alot bigger and heavier so now you have a much heavier shaft being retained by a undersiezed u-joint and flange at one end.

I know you are trying to save some money and "buy canadian" yada yada yada...but come on this is the front driveshaft, just do it right and be done with it. You dont need the long spline you just want something that isnt going to go boom.

You would think someone in automotive engineering would realize this.

 

[muskyman]

You would think someone in automotive engineering would realize this.

yeah very good point...come on Rob think about this.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

replacing the DC with a 1310 unit and keeping the diff end a 1300 is just a dumb idea. yes it will work but for how long?

the 1310 stuff is alot bigger and heavier so now you have a much heavier shaft being retained by a undersiezed u-joint and flange at one end.

I know you are trying to save some money and "buy canadian" yada yada yada...but come on this is the front driveshaft, just do it right and be done with it. You dont need the long spline you just want something that isnt going to go boom.

Ok, woah woah, that's not what I said, but re-reading it I could see why you thought that based on what Michael's wrote.

What I mean is, it's all new and HD. New 1310 TC yoke, 1310 DC, new heavier shaft, Durango splines, 1310 at the diff end, the *only* part being reused is the diff *flange* itself which would get cut off and welded to a 1310 yoke for the 1310 at the diff end.

The TW shaft would be $650 by the time I had it, and I can get this for less than $400. And frankly I'm a little cheesed that TW would ship a shaft for free to somebody in the US, but won't comp a little to a Canadian to ease the even larger shipping cost. And lastly, I know you say that the vibration thing is due to angles but... I've read too many reports from other people saying they had the problem even though the angles were fine, etc. And shipping a shaft back and forth a couple more times...

Or just do it local.