Canadian Disco 2 Build

[R_Lefebvre]

Front Driveshaft Done?

Well, so I guess it was inevitable. Just a matter of time right? I've got about 100,000km on it, or 60,000 miles. It's been wheeled a number of times and lots of mud.

Yesterday, I noticed a faint vibration at moderate speeds, and wondered if I was imagining it. This morning on the way to work, it was a little worse. On the way home, I was definitely worried and actually drove home under the speed limit. Vibration felt in the chassis, but primarily in the wheel. Starts at about 30mph, but I didn't go over 50mph on the way home. It's gone when I'm coasting, and comes on with more throttle.

Took the truck into the shop, crawled under and checked. I don't really know what I'm looking for, never played with driveshafts. The front just has ever so slight play. Really little. I wasn't sure, but decided to remove it, process of elimination. Got it off without too much trouble except those damn British locknuts are so damn soft, hard not to round them off.

Once I had it on the ground, it was fairly obvious. There appears to be about 1° radial play in the DC joint. Also, something doesn't quite look right with the bearings, looks like some end cups have split open or something. Not sure, but I see some clean metal rings, while everything else is filthy.

So...

What now?

It's an 04, so I believe I can lock the CDL and drive around in RWD? ANY issues with this at all?

I'll have to decide what to do now. Rebuild? GBR? Woods? I'm not planning on running big tires. 31's currently, *maybe* 33's max in the future. Don't know if I need a HD driveshaft? I've never rebuilt a driveshaft, but probably capable of learning.

I'm actually almost glad it happened. Just get this part out of the way, so I can stop being paranoid of the front shaft bitchslapping my tranny.

 

[muskyman]

simple

Tom Wood 1310 DC shaft.

you got lucky...lots never got a warning they just let go.

and yes you can just lock the CDL and drive it until the shaft gets there, nothing at all to worry about driving it in 2wd.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I wondered about the warning or not question. The vibration was subtle, I'm not sure everybody would notice?

Now, why buy the Woods, and not just rebuild mine with 1310's?

 

[Root Moose]

Malmberg's in Ottawa can modify your stock shaft to be anything you need/want. Surely someone in the OVLR has been down this route?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Something like that might not be a bad option. I recognize the name. My dad runs a company in Ottawa with a fleet of trucks, he's probably dealt with them.

http://www.malmbergtruck.com/

The problem with Woods is, as always, the border. I'm open to any possibility, but I need to understand the pros/cons. What would a Wood shaft give me that rebuilding this shaft with quality components wouldn't?

 

[michaels]

Now, why buy the Woods, and not just rebuild mine with 1310's?

because you can't. that is, unless you cut the current flanges off and weld ones the correct size for a 1310 on. i went that route and got spicer 1310s. just get the TW.

 

[Root Moose]

Malmberg's is the "go to" place for pretty much all the 4x4 clubs in the OV. They give discounts to clubs as well, at least certainly for OVO and I'd expect similar for OVLR and the TLC club.

You a member of OVLR? Ask them about Malmbergs as part of your due diligence..

I don't want to put you off a Tom Wood's shaft. Tom is a great guy, he talked my ear off on the phone one time in 1994 on his nickel so I appreciate his customer focus... but he is on the other side of the continent and we have "local" shops that are as capable now (not so in `94 to my knowledge).

$0.02

HTH

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Ok, I thought that sounded too easy. But, you rebuilt yours with 1310's? You have to cut the yokes off and weld them onto the shaft? Now that sounds like fun.

The cheap and easy option is just rebuilding it with standard replacement joints? What about the centering ball in the DC? Do you have to rebuild it too? Would love more info on this.

And what about the single universal at the diff. Might as well do it too yeah? It's already greasable. Do people upgrade those too, or they're fine?

I have a new baby due in... a couple days from now and wife will be off work for a year so, didn't want to be dropping a ton of money on this if I can avoid it.

Chris, yeah, I'm an OVLR member. What do you know Malmberg has done? Just a basic stock rebuild, or can they beef things up?

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Oh, and I'm researching Conformal Coatings or potting of the computers in this thing. Possibly do away with any worries of getting the computers wet again. Not that I want to be a submariner, but for any "Oh Crap" moments in the future.

 

[muskyman]

I wondered about the warning or not question. The vibration was subtle, I'm not sure everybody would notice?

Now, why buy the Woods, and not just rebuild mine with 1310's?

the stock shaft takes 1300's not 1310's so they wont fit.

Also many of the failure the actual H member just broke right in half so getting a much bigger stronger H member is where the real strength upgrade comes from.

The Tom Wood www.4xshaft.comshaft is really the best strongest option out there and it allows you a fully greasable shaft compared to the factory shaft that has no provision to grease the centering ball in the H member. The size of the centering ball is also bigger.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

By H-member, you mean the big casting that makes up the center of the DC? And that breaks in half? Wow.

Oh, and I drove the truck to work this morning, vibration is gone, so it's definitely the shaft. Feels weird being RWD, spinning an inside wheel in the rain while accelerating turning right. Steering feel is also lighter which I wasn't expecting.

I'll call Woods at lunch to see how much we're talking about. Is a stronger shaft really a requirement if I'm not going big-tyred?

 

[timmy!!!!!!!]

Just buy the dang TW shaft. You are overthinking this. Oh and Will Tillery has a great price on them although I don't know how it would work with shipping to Canada.

 

[muskyman]

By H-member, you mean the big casting that makes up the center of the DC? And that breaks in half? Wow.

Oh, and I drove the truck to work this morning, vibration is gone, so it's definitely the shaft. Feels weird being RWD, spinning an inside wheel in the rain while accelerating turning right. Steering feel is also lighter which I wasn't expecting.

I'll call Woods at lunch to see how much we're talking about. Is a stronger shaft really a requirement if I'm not going big-tyred?

Yes they break, I had one on a truck I was going to just swap in u-joints and the H member broke just from forces of removing the u-joint.

The truck do drive a bit different in just rear wheel drive but not dangerous or anything. They drive alot like a 2wd panel van.

You can buy straight from TW or from Will Tillery they all come from the same place in the end. Will has a good price and may even have the one you need right on the shelf to ship out today.

As far as "needing" a bigger shaft. I feel if you are going to off road the thing like you do it is a nice upgrade no matter the tire size. I replaced the stock shaft on my wifes DII and it had street tires and really only did soft roading kinda stuff. I just didnt like the idea of a failure of the stock shaft after seeing all the destroyed trans I have seen first hand.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

One of the things with the TW shaft, I've seen guys complain about an imbalance. Now, I dunno... first of all, if there is an imbalance, I'm pretty sensitive to that. And sending it back to get rebalanced is a huge problem from here.

I've called around a couple driveshaft shops around here. One of them does a lot of custom work. They say they could build one with 1310's for about $400 CDN.

Also the NAPA place here can get the Neapco 1-0005 joints Tom recommends, but I need a centering ball PN still.

I'm kinda leaning towards rebuilding this one, and getting a better one later when I have more cash and then I've got a spare too. I hear what you're saying Thom, just not sure I wanna spend that much right now on this.

 

[muskyman]

the balence issue is related to incorrect driveline angles.

A heavier driveshaft will vibrate more then a lighter one with the exact same incorrect driveline angles.

its not the driveshaft its the incorrect angles they are running at.

I have owned a number of trucks with shafts from Tom and I have never had a issues with any of them being out of balence.

make sure those custom shops really have the correct flange for a land rover on both ends, they are not that common of a piece.

I understand the money issue...I am there myself these days. The issue I would keep in mind is the cost of a trans if that stock shaft lets go at the H member. even doing it yourself with used parts will be way over $1000