Land Rover Aluminum Wheels vs Steel Wheels

SeaRubi

Explorer
Back to rims :)

I guess I am not following you guys here attacking Jack for posting that pic of the rim? Jack is 100% on the mark. Alloy rover rims tend to crack and bend if you wheel them in tough situations enough.

case and point:

attachment.php


This is a rim a destroyed in Moab. I was running about 25-30 psi at the time. Higher pressures make the tires carry a load more stable, presserve ground clearence and allow the tires to slip before something in the drivetrain fails. These are all good things when you are far away from home and want to get back with as few issues as possible.

Instead of attacking someone like Jack for sharing information, maybe understand he is one of the guys actually out doing what he posts about and you should listen.

Get a clue guys!

JSQ doesn't post here to share information. It's purely to boost his young, overinflated and fragile ego.

Moab - Dusy - not a damned one of these places resembles florida.

back to storage boxes! Maybe one of the mods can move all the wheel talk over to a new thread? :)

cheers
-ike
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
a nice breakdown of all the steel wheel p/n's, what they were originally fitted to, tube/tubless, offset, backspacing, and a picture. I've been wanting this info to put in a faq somewhere for a while because it comes up alot and dropping part numbers without describing what it represents is pretty useless to most people.
Here's some of the info.

231601 88" except NADA (5J) (latterly STC3403)
526753 88" NADA, 15"
272309 109", earlier type (5.5J), 1 3/4" offset
569690 109", later type, (5.5J)1 5/16" offset (latterly NRC7578 & ANR4636)
217267 Detachable rim (split rim)
569204 109" One Ton (6.5J) (latterly ANR1534)
LR_rims.JPG

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/daveslandyandngstuff/wheels.htm

I have examples of nearly all of them, with the exception of maybe ANR1534.
I also have a couple of sets of Wolf wheels, but can't remember the dimensions.


I can't help but wonder why people care what wheels other people run.

From my personal experience:
Alloy = less un-sprung weight
Alloys will crack/scuff/break
Steel can be hammered out enough to hold air if bent
Steel are a lot heavier
Wheel width requirements can be easily seen on any tire mfg web site.
Wheel off-set requirements can be calculated with high school math.
Wheel load ratings are available as well, but for 99% of Land Rovers, any Land Rover wheel that fits is plenty good.

What's right for an individual only that individual can say.
Maybe someone who knows exactly how they drive, and exactly where they drive, would have a real good idea as well. Beyond that it's just opinion, so who cares?
 
Last edited:

Snagger

Explorer
What the bloody hell is the argument about? Let owners fit whatever type wheel and paint it whatever colour they want - as long as the wheel is rated to the correct loading and is fitted witht he correct studs, hub and tyre type, then it's the owner's business.

As for the view that alooys are inherrently weak, what about the Wolf WMIKs in Afghanistan? They had their steel wheels replaced with alloys, and they holding up better than the steel wheels did. It's a matter of quality - there are good and bad examples of steel wheels as well as alloys, and each material has its advantages and disadvantages (the biggest disadvantage of alloys being cost, as far as I can tell).
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
I take responsibility for inviting the poo flinging on alloy vs. steel because it's an old sore spot of mine (like 10 years and running).

The thing is - people are always coming on to forums and then telling what they perceive as a n00bie to ditch their alloys and go to steel wheels because they are "tougher". This attitude, for 10 years, has annoyed me to no end and there's almost never anyone to call people out on it. In just about *every* case, it's someone that brings up a picture of a wheel they destroyed on some kind of rock crawling trail and then use that as high evidence of their great wisdom. JSQ and Musky certainly aren't the first to post up pictures of bent or destroyed alloy rims. They were floating around LRO years and years ago, from some east coasters, as I recall. The Series guys laughed at us, too, as I recall.

All parts will break under heavy abuse. Wheels are no different.

In my opinion, there's not a lot of wisdom to be had in the first place to head out to places like Moab or the Rubicon with skinny tires on already heavy trucks with heavy loads, then complaining about the resiliency of their wheels after they tater one of them. Look around! Maybe there's a reason all those jeep and toyota guys are running 35's and 37's with Walker Evans beadlock alloys on the same trails, eh?

Anyway, when these photos and the stories get used as an example of how bad "alloys suck" and is brought down to the newer guys as gospel - well, I get a little hot under the collar, so paint me guilty for stirring up the whole debate. In 10 years of wheeling with my own 2 trucks and alongside friend's trucks, on plenty of rocky trails, I have not seen a damaged alloy rim. If a big rock stood up and clobbered JSQ's rear wheel that is truly unfortunate. Once, a big rock stood up and nearly removed the entire rear 1/4 of my friend's Disco II by wedgeing itself up next to the fuel filler between the tank and the inside of the body work. That doesn't mean that disco's suck. I broke a 3" lift coil spring in half once. I'm the only one I know personally that's done that, and I am not about to swap to leafs :) If I broke 3 alloy rims running the trails I want to run, you betcha I'd swap to some steel wheels to try something different. That doesn't mean that everybody else should, too, just because I thought I was hardcore for doing so and that, by god, you should be too!

For the record, I last ran nato rims, because the 1-ton drive flanges I had installed on my RRC wouldn't fit on the alloys. they were brush painted OD green and certainly looked the part. I'd have just as soon had alloys.

Also for the record, running tubeless tires on for-tube rims (natos) can lead to flipped trucks on their lid and huge impressions in the pavement of where the wheel catapulted a 5k truck end over end into the ditch after the tire rolled off the bead in a panic stop. i was there and that sucked. alot. we didn't figure it out until later, when the p/n's for the rims wre looked up and it was learned that the rims were meant to be used with tubed tires.

So the moral of this story, especially with the older LR wheels, is to be very careful in what you recommend on public forums and throwing out p/n's without stating what they are. For people looking this stuff up, make your own conclusions and do the footwork. The tires and rims aren't something to ****** around without knowing exactly what they are.

cheers,
-grumpy
 

leeawalden

Adventurer
Alloys break and crack

Steelies bend

Steelies can be bent back and possibly salvaged. Broken alloy rims make nice legs for the beer pong table.


:costumed-smiley-007
 

muskyman

Explorer
wow 10 years and you havent damaged a rim...clearly you must be right.

Neither Jack nor I claimed that alloys suck, we both simple posted pics of damaged alloys rims, something you now seem to claim cant happen.

I have to say that I have pounded lots of steel rims back into servicable shape on the trail and that is a real good reason to use steel IMHO. should everybody have steel? No I dont think thats the case but if you want a rim that is strong and able to have a chance to be repaired on the trail then steel is better then alloy plain and simple.

you may have a pet peave about this subject and it may have ruined your online life for 10 years but from what you just posted I guess you still dont get where I am coming from. Add into the fact that this has driven you nuts for so long I dont expect you to start getting it now.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Also for the record, running tubeless tires on for-tube rims (natos) can lead to flipped trucks
If by NATO you mean Wolf wheels, there are two kinds, tube type and tubeless.
But most Series rims are tube type.
 
Last edited:

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I have to ask, how in the heck you guys are damaging rims like this? I've driven over a 6" diameter stone on the freeway at 75mph in a car with 45 series tires, it destroyed the suspension, but the wheel was only tweaked and didn't even lose air.

I can't fathom how you could drive a truck that fast on a really rough dirt road to impact hard enough, with all that sidewall...

I've bent wheels on my WR250, and it only happens for one reason. High speed impact with a sharp rock and 12psi in the tires. But I sure don't drive my truck that fast off-road.

The only thing I can think of is a sharp rock that has managed to slip beside the sidewall, but just catches the lip of the wheel. But you'd still need a lot of weight and a hard impact from speed or a drop, to do it. My alloys are rock rashed and the lips are ground off, but I've never come close to breaking one.

And Ike, I think the implication here is that... yes, driving a heavy truck with skinny tires is less than optimal, but we choose to do it for whatever reason. And if you're going to do it... better to have steel wheels that can be bent back without breaking.
 

muskyman

Explorer
I have to ask, how in the heck you guys are damaging rims like this? I've driven over a 6" diameter stone on the freeway at 75mph in a car with 45 series tires, it destroyed the suspension, but the wheel was only tweaked and didn't even lose air.

I can't fathom how you could drive a truck that fast on a really rough dirt road to impact hard enough, with all that sidewall...

I've bent wheels on my WR250, and it only happens for one reason. High speed impact with a sharp rock and 12psi in the tires. But I sure don't drive my truck that fast off-road.

The only thing I can think of is a sharp rock that has managed to slip beside the sidewall, but just catches the lip of the wheel. But you'd still need a lot of weight and a hard impact from speed or a drop, to do it. My alloys are rock rashed and the lips are ground off, but I've never come close to breaking one.

And Ike, I think the implication here is that... yes, driving a heavy truck with skinny tires is less than optimal, but we choose to do it for whatever reason. And if you're going to do it... better to have steel wheels that can be bent back without breaking.

The damage I posted happened at between 2-3 mph crawling through a tight spot in a valley. there was no bypass.

The fact of the matter is this stuff happens, the more you wheel the more often it happens. Thinking this stuff only happens at speed is just not the case it happens at slow speeds when you least expect it or sometimes like that one of mine when you have no other choice then to follow a certain path because there is a rock face on one side and a valley on the other.

The slickrock out west or the granite in the upper midwest is pretty equally harsh on rims from what I have seen. The granite we deal with here in the midwest often breaks in ways that leave razor sharp shards right at tire level. these situations will destroy tires and crack rims in the blink of a eye.

_____________________

One more thing we deal with alot with mud here in the midwest is popping a tire off the rim to clean it out after a bead has been popped and the rim and tire contaminated.

This is yet another time I would much rather have steel. The soft alloy rims get really beat up from the tire spoons. if you dont get the mud cleaned out resealing the bead on the tire can be near impossible so having to be careful of alloy im is once again a pain.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Up here in the Canadian shield, the rock is much older, worn down and rounded. So I get the difference you are saying, and can understand how tires get cut. But as for the wheel.... how is it possible to happen at almost zero speed? I'm just asking, technically. Is it as I said, a sharp rock squeaks past the sidewall and catches the rim lip? Then, if it's at low speed... did the wheel just drop off a ledge and land on said ledge and land on said rock with lots of force?

I just can't believe that wheels are bending like this, with the tire slowly rolling over rocks with no impact force.
 

muskyman

Explorer
I just can't believe that wheels are bending like this, with the tire slowly rolling over rocks with no impact force.

Rob

there is alot you dont believe and over and over people try and explain it to you.

it happens...alloy rims bend crack and fail.

people will crawl past something and the tire side wall will flex and then the rim hits the obstruction and is ruined. There is a lot of torque available at the rim when a truck is crawling.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,791
Messages
2,920,906
Members
232,931
Latest member
Northandfree
Top