OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

[Fergie]

I've got a request for the group here, if y'all will indulge.

I'm building out a larger 80/20 frame around my propex, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to attached to the aluminum unistrut. I've extended the top piece all the way to the rear of the camper, and have also installed a bottom rail.

If you've done the same, or something similar, can you post some pics of your attachment points, please? Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[billy bee]

I joined the fray. Bought a slightly used (or repo'd) camper from OVRLND last week. It had been sold previously and was spec'd with lots of doors and windows and stuff. The buyer couldn't/didn't pay in full and brought the camper back to OVRLND. Here's a quick list of how it is outfitted:

• Maxxair Plus fan
• fold down door, P-side rear
• small sliding window, P-side front
• fold up door, D-side front
• small sliding window, D-side rear
• solar panel hook-up
• sliding window, front
• windows in barn doors
• barn doors
• 3" extra height cab-over
• positive pressure valve thingy
• heater hose pass through
• three exterior flood lights, both sides and rear
• anodized silver exterior
• gas struts

It was built for a GMT400, but fits my '01 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Std Bed (GMT800) perfectly with a short extension riveted to the leading edge of the shell.

I think doing the wiring first is ideal. Then insulation. But I'm having a hard time figuring out electrical. I was planning to use my Ecoflow Delta Max to power fridge, lights, and fan. But it only has a 10amp output at the cigarette lighter port. That socket is enough to power the fridge, but seems like too little amperage to run everything. I saw some LED lights in this thread that run on a few milliamps. Clicked through to the link and they are out of stock. They would work, however. But I'm not sure how much the fan draws. Gotta research that. A quick look at some AI-generated info say minimum of 5 amps.

For insulation, I was thinking of using wool. anybody else done that? I know 1" foam is probably a much easier approach, but I prefer something more organic. Am I crazy? I cannot imagine how to keep it from sloughing down in the bays over time.

I am only about 10 pages into reading this thread; so, some of these questions may be answered here. I'll keep reading. Meanwhile, here are a few pictures of my OVRLND shell.

From the OVRLND site:

As seen on my truck:

--bb

 

[dstefan]

I've got a request for the group here, if y'all will indulge.

I'm building out a larger 80/20 frame around my propex, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to attached to the aluminum unistrut. I've extended the top piece all the way to the rear of the camper, and have also installed a bottom rail.

If you've done the same, or something similar, can you post some pics of your attachment points, please? Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks!

@Fergie — I did something similar that may help?. Haven’t used Unistrut, but it’s awfully similar to the Toyota bed rails and I know they have track nuts. I needed to securely attach 80/20 to my bed rails to hold my bench seat. Used some slide in Tnuts for the Toyota bed rail, and then drilled through the 80/20 and attached with bolts.



I had to put a shim under the Tnut for some reason I don’t recall — that’s what you’re seeing in 2nd pic at the bottom of the nut. I also used 2” wide, 2 channel 10 series 80/20 cause the bed rail was just a little too wide for the 1” 10 series to fit correctly and not rock(and the second channel was helpful for support). I guess that could be an issue with the unistrut too maybe? I DK.

Do you have access to a drill press? It really makes through drilling the 80/20 easier and safer. I have through drilled it by hand, but it’s harder due to the channel gap which can cause the drill bit to catch. Otherwise, no worries on through holes in the 80/20 — I’ve done it a lot and structurally it’s not a problem.

Hope this helps! Happy to answer any questions.

 

[dstefan]

I joined the fray. Bought a slightly used (or repo'd) camper from OVRLND last week. It had been sold previously and was spec'd with lots of doors and windows and stuff. The buyer couldn't/didn't pay in full and brought the camper back to OVRLND. Here's a quick list of how it is outfitted:

• Maxxair Plus fan
• fold down door, P-side rear
• small sliding window, P-side front
• fold up door, D-side front
• small sliding window, D-side rear
• solar panel hook-up
• sliding window, front
• windows in barn doors
• barn doors
• 3" extra height cab-over
• positive pressure valve thingy
• heater hose pass through
• three exterior flood lights, both sides and rear
• anodized silver exterior
• gas struts

It was built for a GMT400, but fits my '01 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Std Bed (GMT800) perfectly with a short extension riveted to the leading edge of the shell.

I think doing the wiring first is ideal. Then insulation. But I'm having a hard time figuring out electrical. I was planning to use my Ecoflow Delta Max to power fridge, lights, and fan. But it only has a 10amp output at the cigarette lighter port. That socket is enough to power the fridge, but seems like too little amperage to run everything. I saw some LED lights in this thread that run on a few milliamps. Clicked through to the link and they are out of stock. They would work, however. But I'm not sure how much the fan draws. Gotta research that. A quick look at some AI-generated info say minimum of 5 amps.

For insulation, I was thinking of using wool. anybody else done that? I know 1" foam is probably a much easier approach, but I prefer something more organic. Am I crazy? I cannot imagine how to keep it from sloughing down in the bays over time.

I am only about 10 pages into reading this thread; so, some of these questions may be answered here. I'll keep reading. Meanwhile, here are a few pictures of my OVRLND shell.

From the OVRLND site:

As seen on my truck:

--bb

At one point I tracked the various electrical draws in my build and made notes. Amazingly, I found them on my phone, so maybe that’ll help. I used the readout from my Victron shunt on the battery and just turned things on and off one at a time.

Camper Electric draw (amps)

Smart shunt and electrical standby .12a
One power works tube light .10.
One Hella light white. 20, red .05
Weboost 1.05
Max fan low .2, 4 clicks (med) .76, high 2.8
ARB Fridge Start 3.7, running hot, empty 4.5
iPhone charging .66
Heating pad 1.3
iPad mini charging USB C 1.12
Truma H/M/L .65/2.75/5.4. Standby .004
12v blanket high 4.3, med 3.12, low 2.08

Have fun with the build!

 

[billy bee]

@dstephan

This is super helpful. Hadn't thought to do the research and then calculate the draw versus available output.

With the two barrel outputs and the cigarette lighter, I get 13 amps of DC output from my Ecoflow Delta Max. Still seems stupid to have so little DC output, but whatever. That's enough to run everything...and I'll never run everything. Nonetheless, I made up my own little spreadsheet of things I'll be running and I come up with 8 amps all in -- fridge, Maxxair, lighting. That leave 5 amps for a heater when/if I get one.

 

[MR E30]

@dstephan

This is super helpful. Hadn't thought to do the research and then calculate the draw versus available output.

With the two barrel outputs and the cigarette lighter, I get 13 amps of DC output from my Ecoflow Delta Max. Still seems stupid to have so little DC output, but whatever. That's enough to run everything...and I'll never run everything. Nonetheless, I made up my own little spreadsheet of things I'll be running and I come up with 8 amps all in -- fridge, Maxxair, lighting. That leave 5 amps for a heater when/if I get one.

One bit of info I can share that may help you:

I helped install, and have used extensively, an off-grid shed powered completely by an Ecoflow Delta Max setup.

This setup cannot power a Chinese diesel heater, as the maximum draw during startup trips all of the available DC outputs on the Ecoflow.

I have the same heater in my truck camper, powered off of a more traditional dual battery setup, and while the heater only uses ~2.1 amps while running, it requires almost 10A as it is first firing up. The Ecoflow trips every single time, so it cannot run a 5kw diesel heater.

Not the end of the world, as you haven't confirmed that you want one, but the Ecoflow misses the boat in this particular case. The Ecoflow definitely seems far more like an AC power replacement device, not so much a DC power replacement device.

 

[billy bee]

One bit of info I can share that may help you:

I helped install, and have used extensively, an off-grid shed powered completely by an Ecoflow Delta Max setup.

This setup cannot power a Chinese diesel heater, as the maximum draw during startup trips all of the available DC outputs on the Ecoflow.

I have the same heater in my truck camper, powered off of a more traditional dual battery setup, and while the heater only uses ~2.1 amps while running, it requires almost 10A as it is first firing up. The Ecoflow trips every single time, so it cannot run a 5kw diesel heater.

Not the end of the world, as you haven't confirmed that you want one, but the Ecoflow misses the boat in this particular case. The Ecoflow definitely seems far more like an AC power replacement device, not so much a DC power replacement device.

This is, indeed, helpful. Thanks.

This raises another question considering all of this stuff -- what kind of fuels do I really want to carry? My truck has a 6.0 liter gas engine. Does everything I want it to do. I have an older propane heater that I could easily rig up to heat the shell. I cook with propane camp stove most of the time (but sometimes make my coffee on a JetBoil in the morning). So, that's two fuels -- gasoline and propane. I don't think I want to add a third fuel to the mix. So, a diesel heater, while having lots of advantages, is probably not in the cards for me. It does have the shiny-object effect on me. I want one, but it's probably not practical.

Plus, we mostly camp in CA. Although I took our RV (which my OVRLND camper is replacing) to the Adirondacks, the desert SW, the mid-Atlantic (for bike trips with my 83-year-old father)...all over the country. So, I have encountered all sorts of weather. I want to be prepared to be almost as comfortable in the truck/camper. I think my propane heater will take the edge off and I can still cook with it.

BTW, the choice of the OVRLND arose largely from a trip this year to Baja. I felt the Sprinter-based Winnebago View was too cumbersome for Baja; so, we took my pick-up and slept in the camper shell, an ARE MX mid-high roof with the walk-in door. Worked well, but we wanted more space to have a potty inside and actually stand up. I am hoping that we won't miss the RV too much once we retire it from duty.

--bb

 

[tgoff]

Thanks for the tips! I have one side done now but man this part of the build is not enjoyable. I'm now wishing I didn't have so many windows.

View attachment 874281

Looks good 👍 I like the Coroplast in white as it makes it nice and bright inside the camper. It helps quite a bit with condensation as well at the aluminum studs. Two adults, one kid and two dogs sleep in the camper so a lot of moisture overnight. I used it on the ceiling as well.
.

 

[Groovemerchant]

First day of build. Picked up our camper on Saturday. Using a NEMA box for housing a Blue Sea Fuse Block. So far just wired in a quick light, MaxxAir fan and a few places to charge the cell phones. Engel compressor fridge will find its home on a platform that replaced one section of the rear seat. Using a portable power station to feed the fuse block via the Anderson Power Pole connector on the side of the NEMA box. Finding that the C channel on the roof is to far rearward so very minimal space to add a rear solar panel. The front of the roof ahead of the Maxx Air fan has room for a large solar panel but no C Channel up front. Not sure why they ran it like that. Looking for ideas for mounting at least 200 watts of rigid panel(s).

Thank you!


View attachment 874052

View attachment 874053

I mounted a 200 watt rigid panel on my roof using T Slot bolts and Z bracket clamps. Super simple and as low profile as you can get.

 

[jjgarrett0]

Looks good 👍 I like the Coroplast in white as it makes it nice and bright inside the camper. It helps quite a bit with condensation as well at the aluminum studs. Two adults, one kid and two dogs sleep in the camper so a lot of moisture overnight. I used it on the ceiling as well.
.View attachment 875165

Thanks! We'll have two adults, two young kids and two dogs in ours 😮! What did you do to get such nice cuts around the windows? I pulled off the frames and traced them on but the coroplast always had a mind of its own.

 

[tgoff]

Thanks! We'll have two adults, two young kids and two dogs in ours 😮! What did you do to get such nice cuts around the windows? I pulled off the frames and traced them on but the coroplast always had a mind of its own.

I used a table saw and a jigsaw to make the cuts. I traced the outside of the window frames and cut approximately 1/2” smaller so the outside trim/feame overlapped the cuts. The trim/frame will still index the welded aluminum framing of the camper. Table saw works well for the rigid foam insulation as well

 

[montechie]

For insulation, I was thinking of using wool. anybody else done that? I know 1" foam is probably a much easier approach, but I prefer something more organic. Am I crazy? I cannot imagine how to keep it from sloughing down in the bays over time.

I used Havloc wool insulation for our walls and ceiling. The ceiling I just used fishing line to hold the wool in place until I put the liner back on. For the walls I did small strips of VHB (2-3") to hold the wool sections in place, as well as cutting the wool sections slightly larger to wedge in between the metal studs until I put the cover paneling on. I then covered the walls in coroplast. Everytime I've opened up a panel over the 2-3 years the wool has been in place, no settling.

The Havloc wool comes in bats, not loose, so it doesn't seem to compact or shift. It was also great to work with since you can tear off clumps to stuff into random gaps, like near the window frame corners. I've been really happy with it, it also manages condensation really well.

 

[dirtnsmores]

I drug my feet long enough making this video.

That was a great walkthrough. Gave me some more ideas. How did you route the propane line to the inside? Quick disconnect or just feed the entire hose through a hole?

 

[Phessor]

I added a Renogy Battery Shunt 300 to my campers electrical system today. Did I need it, I don't know.
I still have another 130 watt solar panel to add to my camper as well. This will bring me up to 260 watts. Than I may add another 105 amp hour battery to the system.
So far everything has been running just fine.