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I didn't touch the brake. On the M8000 & XD9000 winches AFAIK it's not rebuilt but rather a complete assembly you remove and replace if you have to. It lives down in the drum and I didn't want to risk having it come apart and throw springs all over my garage.

Pretty sure Martin is actually a real lawyer, so I dunno.

Garmin/InReach and GlobarStar/SPOT use the same service when you push SOS. That being GEOS IERCC in Houston. When you push SOS they are the ones who know COSPAS/SARSAT lingo and liaison between you, your emergency contact and SAR. https://www.geosworldwide.com BTW, Iridium has 66 satellites...

That's the key I've found is to create tracks and not routes that you import to a Garmin device. I personally don't have a problem with their hardware but I'm only using the simple receivers, eTrex 20x and GPSMap 78. They are supposed to handle importing routes but even if you use the same...

I just rebuilt my XD9000 a couple of years ago. I ended up needing to replace the two tie bars across the drum since they were corroded pretty badly (one sheared during disassembly) and few fasteners but mostly it was just clean up, new seals and grease. The rebuild document (Warn Service...

I think the T100 is the step child, still old school torsion rod Hi-Trac IFS that shared several components with the 86-95 trucks but larger with a 3.4L V6. I like them but haven't seen many nice ones left since there weren't many to start. The couple I could see buying were automatic...

The textbook example of sustainable manufacturing no doubt.

Old business radios are often cheap, the problem is it can be costly to get setup with a Motorola account and get the CPS software. But for a club it can be manageable. Say it costs $300 for a software license for 3 years but you get a dozen or two surplus radios that you program in bulk with...

Parallel lines can also mean the contacts of a relay in some contexts but when it does it'll usually have some indication of their association with a coil somewhere. Hard to say 100% but in the screen shot you give I'd assume capacitor from B+ to ground too. The alternator you showed has a...

That line of reasoning is a good possibility. Also @Tiktaalik please make this measurement with both polarities on the leads. First with red on D+ and black on alternator case. Then reverse them, black on D+ and red on alternator case. It would be ideal if you could measure between case, DF...

That doesn't matter, connecting them together on the back of the case or running a wire from the battery would achieve the same thing. That is with any of the voltage regulators mounted?

I'm curious like @luthj what you mean "barely detectable voltage". With the D+ jumped to B+ the alternator should try to produce as much current as its capable. If it's not then the field winding or regulator are suspect.

I'd also consider putting back on the original voltage regulator that the alternator was tested and supplied with. Removing the adjustable one you put in after the fact to eliminate another variable. If the regulator isn't set or working right it might not bootstrap or switch to a steady PWM...

You should measure a voltage close to 0V at D+ when the regulator is first coming up before the engine is spinning and the alternator fully regulating. That would mean current is flowing through the field from the battery through the indicator. Once the engine is running and the alternator is...

What are you measuring when you say 1.57V, 1.86V and 12.79V? Is that the voltage of the D+ terminal?

@Happy Joe, up until I owned my 2008 Tacoma I would have agreed. The oil pan generally wasn't something I worried about a lot. But the geometry of the front end on 2005+ 4WD Tacoma and similar generation 4Runner and FJ Cruiser with the 4.0L V6 puts the front diff and rear oil pan (there are...

The wire colors might not match, so don't use them as absolute references. Trace or check them against the wiring manual.

The blue wire could be grounded to test that the bulb and charge indication circuit are working, but the D+ needs to be on the +12V side operating for the field to energize. If you leave D+ connected to ground you would bypass the field winding. I'd have though the light would illuminate with...

What do you mean grounding the lamp? The lamp goes between +12V and D+ and should only illuminate when there's a problem, it should be off normally. You could jumper D+ and B+ and it would work, the problem being in that case the field is never de-energized and drains the battery when the...

Indeed. Current code (Article 394) allows existing knob and tube to remain in residential and can be extended in hollow spaces and unfinished attics. Otherwise can't be installed or repaired, has to be replaced completely if you're touching it. Bathrooms and kitchens would have to get GFI and...