Windows do look nice. Is there enough room to swing the jack up for travel? I put mine in a similar spot and regretted it. On follow up builds I put the jack on the A-frame.
I would just get the E-rated. You tend to get more rubber for the money. Ride might be better with the C-rated but you can can air down the E-rated and they will hold up to to hazards better.
That is a different looking base trailer. Any pics of the data plate? The frame on the outside of the tub keeps the look of the 101AX, very nice. Impressive shop space you have there. Did you have to modify the rear stabilizer?
Looks fun. I will say that I have always learned something from a build so the next one is better. Rather than build both at the same time, may want to build one, then do the next.
Looks like you have a nice shop. Can tell by the dress code you are in Texas.
If it were me, I would pause and consider the cost/time to repair vs. building from scratch. Lots of rust/damage you will have to deal with and probably continue to deal with.
By the time you are done, you will have spent a lot of time money. Might was well start off with a good foundation.
Those don't look to bad to me....at least all the parts were there and you had some grease. I have seen some strange things pulling the hubs on military trailers. Don't think I would ever knowingly take a vehicle to former military mechanic.
What did the new bearing and races cost you? You...
Nice build. Neat to see these trailers get taken completely apart then reassembled.
What are you plans for the fenders? As others have mentioned, if you leave them as is, the rocks and mud will destroy your awning and make a general mess of everything.
I spied a few prime locations for...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?165266-M101A2-shock-replacement
Posted the part numbers I used in my build threads as well. My go to replacement is the Rancho now.
Got a few questions over on SS, posting the info here as well. Fender has ~1/2" lip so tire is ~1/2" inside of the lip (about as wide as I would want to go for debris control. Tire will obviously never get close to the fender.
Wheels are GM 16" with 5" of back spacing (inside of rim to hub...
Etrailer for caps and seals. Auto parts store for cotter pins. Etrailer sells a few different brands of the size. I prefer the brand that are zinc plates and are sold as a pair. If I remember I will check my notes and post a link/part number...
If I were going to make an adjustable rack, I would make it out of two pieces of channel flat to flat. One with a groove cut and one with two holes/bolts. In my experience, tubing just does not telescope well. Debris/water etc binding up inside the lower tube would concern me. If you end up...
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