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You may find the surge brakes irritating for backing up, especially if alone. Locking it out every time you want to back up gets old. A few others on here have successfully swapped the hubs/backing plates to get electric brakes without doing an axle swap. Expanded metal has a "grain" to it...

Looking good so far. This is going to a big rig for your jeep to drag around. Are you keeping the surge brakes? How do you plan to move the rack up and down? I see you made the same mistake I did, ran the expanded metal the wrong direction.

Build is coming along well. You move fast.

Before ordering your new axle, you may want to load it up and take it to the scales. Could be getting close to 3500 lbs and don't want to run at the limit all the time/the axle to be the weak point. I would pull the tongue box, demo the old extension, then tie a one piece draw bar into the...

I stow my rear jacks poining towards the rear or in the bed of trailer. You will be suprised what they can get hung up on. Build is looking good. How are you going to drill the holes in the 2.5" tubing?

What is wrong with it? You can find parts to repair some things. I believe the wheels are bolted on so you should be able to re-use the caster on a new jack. Just go to e-trailer and start browsing. You may need to buy the jack separate from the pipe mount so you can get the height correct...

I have considered a water tank as well. Ended up using VP fuel cans instead. I chose the individual cans over a single integrated tank for the same reasons you mentioned as considerations and; With the cans you can easily identify level and have discrete points for monitoring consumption...

Are you swapping the wheels and tires to lower the trailer? If so, be careful as those are still pretty tall. Tall can be fixed with new tires but those wheels are also pretty wide so you may run into difficulty finding 30" tires for them.

Thank you. Should be hub pics in both threads. They are the same as 1101/1102. I can locate some 1102 pics if you need more.

Grease seals https://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-Trailer-Bearings/TruRyde/RG06-070.html Grease caps https://www.etrailer.com/Grease-Caps/Redline/RG04-100.html Any 2.72" size should work but I have found these to be easier to pound in and remove than others. They have a curved lip vs a...

The 1101 and 1102 do no have a lock out provision. I am willing to bet the brakes are salvageable and may just need to be adjusted. The grease cap will come out.

It's a pry/hammer deal. Jack up the tire so you can rotate it then start to wedge/pound a screw driver or chisel into the gap between the hub and grease cap. May need to twist some and go to progressively larger screwdrivers/chisels. A rubber/plastic mallet works best for pounding on...

Are you sure it's not the brakes/parking brakes heating things up? Post a pic of where you are at right now. The hubs should come off the axle easily. Remove grease cap, remove cotter pin/retainer, remove spindle nut. May find your answer somewhere in here too...

That is the part that people break trying to use these trailers as dump trailers. May end up being a hard part to find.....

Looks good. Glad the first trip was a success. What made you decide on a split rear door vs a single door hinged along top. Would have made a nice and easy awning too. The inside looks very spacious. Every time I get caught in the rain, I tell myself I need to build an enclosed box for...

Its a spacer plate that is used with a scissor jack to lift under the shock. http://www.silvereaglemfg.com/parts_pdfs/M1101%20Tech%20Manual.pdf page 155

A microwave and coffee maker will have a large surge draw. A small stove and press type coffee maker could save you a lot of money on batteries.

My experience is that a plain pintle hook is quieter than a ball combo. Also, if you tow the mil trailer a lot with the ball, you will mangle up the ball and it will start to cause issues with ball couplers. For the price of the BW, you could easily put together a dedicated pintle and...

No need to cut the wires. Buy the mil connectors, some 7 wire cable, and plug. Should be able to attach the civilian pigtail to the junctuion box/area. If you cut the wires, cut them on the plug side of the connectors. The mil connectors fit into a retainer clamp/plate. That jumper would be...

Looks good. There is a thread on SS how to trim the axle spacer plate to lower the trailer another few inches if needed. Will have to login to see pics. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134805-Another-way-to-lower-an-M1101-M1102&