Thank you.
It was an easy way to lower the trailer 3.5". Also, those military 37" tires are not really meant for more than 55 mph. Tows a lot better with truck tires/wheels that are balanced.
Things I considered:
Smaller wheels and tires
Spring under axle
Replace axle with drop axle
Torsion axle attached to frame with 45 degree up spindles
Just depends how much money and effort you want to spend. You could probable get close to 10" lower with the torsion axle.
Been struggling with this as well. I am using an 857d and have played with a few portable HF antennas. Goal is not mobile, just portable/easy to set up when camped.
Currently using a 35' telescoping mast with a dual band j-pole on top. Played with the buddipole on top and was not a fan...
I agree on the side crank preference but I dont like that type of jack. The caster is not a true swivel and not a fan of the plastic wheel. The swivel lock up is good with minimal wobble but there is not adjustment for forward/backwards rake. Its just aesthetics, but that type of mount just...
Having done several and learning from each one, these are the parts that I use.
I prefer to buy the jack without a mount so I can fine tune the balance point (prefer the jack to naturally want to pivot foot/wheel side down) and height/extension for ease of deployment (few cranks) and max...
Off to a great start. How much was the topper?
Do you have a budget in mind or just the one piece at a time approach?
May want to consider moving the kitchen to the other side.
It should be fine, just wondering what the reason was. Another option could have been to use 2" tube for the draw, slip the 2.5" receiver tube over it, then weld or bolt them together.
I do wish 2.5"x2.5"x1/4" with the weld broached was a more standard item at steel yards.
You will enjoy that...
Caster came out nice.
Looks like you butt welded a pre-fabbed 2" receiver section (2.5"x2.5"x3/16) to the end of the 2.5"x2.5"x1/8" draw bar. i know its too late, but why didnt you use 3/16 wall tubing for then entire draw bar? Would just need to drill a hole and add a collar for a one...
Nice build. Welds look good as well. Those zip ties that hold the wires to the frame will break. Its worth the time and money to use cable clamps with bolts/self tapping screws.
Even if I only need 4 pins, I wire my trailers with heavy duty jacketed 7 strand cable with a 7 pin connector...
Good idea for hammock poles. Would be nice to have a set on each side of trailer, or truck, or both.
Will keep an eye out on I20 for you heading to Mexico. Live in DFW as well.
Well done. This is the first time I have seen a successful hub only swap on a military trailer. I drag a 101A3 around with a Tundra so this has me thinking... even have a spare set of wheels and tires in the bone yard.
Great trailer and tow vehicle build/combo.
Thank you for posting the info...
They are heavy at ~2500 lbs empty. You will need to do an axle swap to get any decent wheels and tires on it. It is also worth noting that the frame/spring seats on these trailers are narrow compared to the hub face and will likely put you outside the recommended max hub face to spring center...
I am also a fan of the pintle coupler. Superior to a ball for a lot of reasons. Never noticed much noise with mine but I tend to keep plenty of tongue weight and use a properly sized hook. Those hookl/ball combinations will drive you crazy. I would only consider a max coupler if you were...
Now that is a tent. A Unistrut rack would be a simple bolt on solution and you allow you to dial in the height. A lid will probably be pretty expensive to farm out.
Do the dogs get out and run while you drive or do they ride in passenger area the entire time?
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