The truck circuits are truck only. No webasto, radio,fridge electric clock🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The only draws on the truck batteries should be lights, heater fans, air con, starter, wipers, sensors(4X4 locks)
The only Camper connection to the truck electrical system is the connection to the B2B.
Solar,generator, house loads etc. all go through the house batteries. Even the 12v power supplies and the radio in the cab are supplies from the house batteries (probably the spot lights too)
There is a main battery shut off switch I never used but might be of use to save the batteries until you track this gremlin down.
When you face the battery box it is top right behind a stainless vanity cover. You have to turn it with a "key" probably hanging right there, basically any flat piece...
The engine crud in the coolant circuit argument is just a non starter. If you have that much crud you need to flush and replace your coolant! I do maybe see the point about the air in the high rad, but in 10 years in the vehicle it was a non issue. Safety factor, it is oxygen barrier pex rated...
The Webasto should not be running continuously. At -2C to -10C I would expect well less than half the time. The truck is quiet enough at night that you hear the Webasto fire up, I would know it was cold when I heard it.
The loops do not need to be separated with a heat exchanger. I have not...
I would go to a bigger unit before two units. My understanding is most of the issues with coolant heaters comes from being oversized and not working enough. We had no issues with comfort at -20C for weeks at a time, We did live in it Feb to Aug here. You must maintain the heat, it is very slow...
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