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I've not heard that before. Is that an established fact, or hopeful thinking? I have no knowledge to the contrary, I always just assumed that Bad Things happened with the timing off. Sure you can't see the bottom mark? You have the pulley off it appears? I'm finally reading this thread on a...

It was the "tiny meth head under my hood was shaking a coffee can full of rocks"....followed by a "horrible knocking/clanking" descriptions that sound to me like what I experienced in my Gen 2.5 when I lost compression due to a dropped valve that soon became a bent valve.

Unfortunately the photos are gone as I no longer maintain the URL they were hosted on, but the short narrative for my LR3 onboard air is here: https://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2006/10/28/onboard-air-for-the-lr3/ Here is one photo I still have: I am pretty sure the LR4 continues the inclusion of...

Hmmmm..just realized this new forum software doesn't display location like it used to. Bummer!

Where do you live? There might be forum members willing to help. It's a pretty easy install.

I suspect a few things. I suspect the locator pin at the crank gear has sheared off, and maybe the key fell out the slot also. Sounds for sure like the timing went off, and you’ve quite likely got bent valves. It’s possible you also have piston damage but you’d have to do a leak down test (or...

from personal experience, the light bulbs in the dash tend to burn out after 15 years or so, particularly the ones indicating you are 4wd. Also, the actuator for the front diff to go into 4wd is often sticky from under use. You have to work the system in and out of 4wd a few times to free it...

Good advice! I saw a few videos on that, and I can see how that would be a trouble point. Question: How do you fill the TQ with oil? Or do you?

Adding photos for those interested:

No, once we found the three additional bolts near the starter and under the catalytic converter, it came apart pretty easily. I did have to remove the engine mounts rather than lift the engine off the engine mount studs. But doing so allowed me to pull the motor forward to clear the tranny...

As it happens, removing the engine while leaving the torque converter in place was faily easy. With the radiator out, plenty of room to slide the engine forward and out

If a mechanic where willing to help me, that would be an option. Currently, its way above my skillset.

I need to pull the 3.5L from my Gen 3, and my motor is seized. The Internet told me that I need to remove the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate before separating the tranny from the engine "or bad things might happen". However, because the engine is seized, I can't turn...

Nice rig, but a minor point of clarification: Unless you added an ARB locker to the front, your LR3 only comes with a Center and Rear locking diff, not Front. Good luck with the sale!

sounds like the AC fan is not drawing air through the radiator. I'd check to make sure the fan in front of the radiator is on. This was an issue with my Gen 2.5, which had a significant overheating issue until I replaced the non-operation fan and then it never overheated again.

I think he should check his motor mounts and also check the fan shroud for wear.

I’ll take it..... probably. Well, my brother might. He’s been looking and you are in his price range, within driving range, and he has a similar Tundra. Seems like fate. I forwarded this link to him. If you hear from Chris Woods, it’s legit.

spacers are not a lift, just higher clearance. Going with the OME system (including shocks) increases the total travel/articulation of the system so that you have more flex and also more weight carrying capacity with the stiffer springs. The more you can keep the wheels on the ground, the less...

I bought aggressive looking tires that 100% drew all the attention away from the holes

Wow that seems like a lot. I was 2.5" and while I didn't have much flex, the height was about perfect. I never had any ti-rod or CV joint issues at that height.